Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: arachnid on November 29, 2016, 05:32:00 AM
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Hello Fellas.
I`m planning on making a takedown longbow (my first FG lam bow) and I have the lams ready. I plan to use a wedge on the fades of each limb. Yesterday I watched this video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qbpunmu5BXM
It`s Stalker Stickbows (don`t know the guy`s name) process of making a TD bow. At about 3:00 he says that he makes a "limb pad overlay" and I wanted to ask you guys - what is the purpse of it? Do it come instead of the wedge of in edition? is it nessesery?
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They are on the belly side of the limb to strengthen the limb where it contacts the riser and to prevent splitting the glass. It can be glass, phenolic, or wood.
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How long should I make it (the wedge is 8" long)?
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I only make mine long enough to match the limb/riser pad contact area.
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I use phenolic where the locator pins go in to prevent splintering and wear when taking off and putting the limbs back on. I've also put the locator pins in the limbs permanently rather than on the riser. With the pins epoxied into the limbs it prevents a weak spot in the limbs because of the empty hole.
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Thanks again Ben.
I don`t have a drill press so I want to make as little drilling as possible. So I won`t be using locator pins, I`m going to make one hole for the bolt and then butt the limb agienst the riser.
I don`t have phenolic so I`ll be using wood for the limb pad overlay (either maple of ipe).
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Maple and ipe should work well. I wish you the best keeping the limbs straight without pins.
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I've seen it being done before so I'll give it a shot.
If you have some advice I love to hear it
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Keep us updated I'm always ready to learn and enjoy seeing everyone's projects.
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Make sure that the limbs are straight to each other . You can string or use a ling straight edge like a level/ Then tighten the limb bolts down really well and drill through the limb into the riser with a hand drill holding it as close to 90 degree in all directions with a 1/8 bit. Take the limbs off and set the pins in the riser. When finished add overlays to the top of the limb to cover the holes and redrill the hole for the limb bolt from the bottom/ Done deal and the limbs will be straight.
God bless, Steve
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Sixby's X2
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Thanks Sixby. My drill has some wobble, that`s why I want to drill as less holes as possible. But I might give it a shot.
I just didn`t understand this line:
"You can string or use a ling straight edge like a level/ Then tighten the limb bolts down really well..."
How do I hold the limbs in place to drill the holes?
And, is it worth making a drilling jig out of wood?
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The pins should be set prior to profiling the limbs . Do it when the limbs are paralleled and measure the same distance across. bolt the limbs on and then string line either the center of the limbs . I mark a center line on the limb when it is paralleled and then work the entire bow off of that centerline. You can take a string and two little string clamps and clamp the string to the center line at the tip of each limb and then line the limbs up so that the string and the center line are perfect to each other . Or you can take a long level or straight edge and set the bow up in a flat surface and bring the limbs into line with the level.I use a 6 ft. level for this and it works great. Make sure each limb touches the level through its entire length.
God bless, Steve