Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: forestdweller on November 20, 2016, 11:32:00 PM
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Hey guy's I'm very interested in building my own bows but have been over whelmed with the information out there on the tools needed and how to do it.
Can anyone suggest two to three tools needed to make a very rough around the edges kind of bow? I plan on starting out through trial and error using maybe 2-3 tools at most.
I've asked someone else for advice on the tools needed and he sent me a list of about 10 tools.
I'm thinking so far that I will need a hatchet, draw knife, and a short draw knife.
Does that sound about right or should I replace the short draw knife with another tool?
I plan on building up my collection of tools as I gain more experience which is why I plan on starting out light in the tools department.
Thanks guys!
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I'd replace the short draw knife with a rasp. A Shinto saw rasp has a coarse cutting edge on one side and a fine one on the other. Cost around $25. You can get by with a sharp knife for a scraper.
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A good hatchet, drawknife, a good rasp, I like the #49 Nicholson, and a cabinet scraper set. Often, the gooseneck scraper is vital. You'll also need a 4" Nicholson round file or a chainsaw file for the string grooves.
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I bought a Shinto rasp and didn't like it. A good black smith rasp is what I use.
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Tools depend on how you want to start building bows. If you start with sawn planks to make Red Oak board bows like Poorfolkbows.com shows, you only need a couple of rasps, a couple C clamps, and sanding blocks. This would seem to be the way to get atarted build what you call "rough around the edges" bows -- bows that are fully functional, that will teach you needed skills to advance to the next stage of bow building.
If you want to start carving bows out of staves you need hatchets, rasps, scrapers and more.
If you want to start building wood-fiberglass laminates you need a much wider range of tools yet.
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The last successful bow I made used only a few hand tools.
Maple board bow - Holmegaard style.
Panel Saw
Coping Saw
Rasp
Cabinet Maker's Scraper (made from a broken industrial band saw blade)
Chainsaw File (for the string grooves)
Sandpaper.
I've made 7 bows so far, 4 successes.
#8 on the go and supplies for #9 in place (planning on a maple backed ipe longbow)
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I strongly suggest researching board bows as recommended, then a black smith rasp as recommended by Roy has been the only rasp I have used for a long time. Even some old dull ones I picked up for 25 cents at garage sales have proven very useful. It's a cheap invaluable tool. If you decide to build a bow from a piece of wood you have cut yourself a draw knife will be the next most invaluable tool you can have. With those two in hand you can go a long way in your bow building path.
I grew up with Osage in my backyard and after the trees came down with a chain saw it was all wedges, draw knives and rasps from there.
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There's a guy on the Primitive Archer forum who says he makes all his bows just using a Kabar knife. From staves. I have no doubts that it's possible, but I gotta see that knife.
Roy, next time I'm in PA I'll show you how to use that Shinto rasp. :D
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I'm in the same boat as you. I got a set of 8 rasps and files from harbor freight for under $10 and I have a saw and a mora robust. So far so good. I'm doing a bamboo laminate (because it's what I got and I usually try to dive in over my head on most things I do. And for a longbow atleast I've found the best way to clamp the lams together is a piece of paracord wrapped around it and some shims that are from the pieces of bamboo I've split off while flattening it. Again not an expert by any means but I do t let things silly things like knowledge stop me
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Tools I use to make bows: Machete or Hatchet for roughing out. Ferrier's rasp course side to get to floor tiller. Fine side to get to brace. square piece of 1/16 thick steel plate I found on the ground about by 3inX5in for a scraper. chainsaw file for knocks. superglue, sand paper. elbow grease. in that order. My bows are not super pretty but pretty functional.
I have a real nice draw knife that sits in my closet because I never use it, its in there with my scraper set.
Bow making is a pretty personal thing, you gotta play with tools to see what feels right and removes wood at a pace you are comfortable with. I think you could do the entire thing pretty well with just a Ferrier's rasp if you had the time
Msturm
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Shoot the guy who taught me chases rings on Osage with a rasp...
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My site may help.
Jawge
http://traditionalarchery101.com/
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Just a quick thanks guys. I ended up getting a nice farriers rasp and am just putting the finishing touches on bow #2 before starting to work on bow #3.
It's a lot less complex than I thought it would be and jumping straight in was the best thing that I did.
The first bow I shot a few times but broke it while putting on a string that was way too short. It broke at the handle as the riser was brought down too much.
Bow #2 actually came out decently but is way too light with maybe 1 1/2 to 2" of set.
Making bow's is extremely addicting and I don't see myself going back to factory bows or lamented bows for the foreseeable future as the whole process of seeing a bow design in your mind, making it, and then shooting it is extremely rewarding.
Also one thing that I have noticed is that selfbow's are much quieter than glass bows. This makes sense considering that glass is terrible for dampening anything.
Now I want to go the full 9 yards and start making my own wooden arrows as well.
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Advice:
S L O W D O W N
Take your time and gently remove wood during tillering
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I believe the Bowyer's bible had a useful phrase in it. Something along the lines of
..Keep a bucket of cold water nearby. If you feel you are making quick progress on a bow, stick your head in the bucket for a minute then reevaluate.
I butchered that a bit, but feel I preserved the general theme. It has served me well recently.
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Draw knife ($20), farriers rasp($25), half round file($10), chainsaw file($5), scraper($10) sandpaper($5). Maybe a coping saw($10)
With those you can do basically anything without sacrificing speed or finish quality.
You could buy all the above new for well under $100.