Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Djoseph on September 24, 2016, 05:58:00 AM
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Hi, I was looking for a D/R bow plan which appeals to me and stumbled on to KennyM's plan and I liked it and was amazed that he was kind enough to out it up for free!!!! A big Thank You Kenny!!
I have two strips of bo-tuff .03" with which I want to make a 40# bow using Kenny's plan...below is my
Plan please review it and let me know if I got it right I have not yet built a fiberglass bow this or a hill style bow may be my first. Eventually I will build both.... As I have reserved a .04" fg pair for the hill bow.
Here goes....
My width at upto 3" past the fades will be from 1-1/2" to 1-7/16" straight taper to 1/2 to 7/16" at nocks.
My stack will be
.03" fg
2 x .12" tapered to .001"/in on the back of the Now
1 x .065" tapered to .001"/in which will ride up the fades on the belly side of the riser
.03" fg
Total stack .365" for a 35 to 40#@28" bow.
Riser 18" for a 64" ntn bow
Give me your opinion and please feel free to correct me if I am wrong
Regards
Dan
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check your stack, I think .365 is 50#
I will check and get back.
Yep, mine shows .345 for a 40#
check it again.
good luck.
we can help you all the way threw.
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Hello Max thanks for your reply. I got that because i figured that because I'm using .03" glass not .04"
Therefore chose a stack for a 50# bow!!!
What do you think?
Dan
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Hi Dan,
I've never used .030 but believe it will make less # than the same stack with .040 glass.
I think Crookedstic posted once about same stack with different glass thickness. If memory serves correctly , anyway. Was less weight, whoever it was, but can't remember how much....
I'm just guessing here, but think you will be good with that. You can always narrow a bit or trap it to lose 5#.
You may have a bit of set because the glass percentage of stack will be lower with .030 glass.
Good luck and have fun!
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Kenny first let me personally thank you for your lovely D/R plan I can't wait to get a bow done with it!!....if you remember the post Kenny let me know and I will check it meanwhile....
Max you and then Kenny got me thinking and I used some maths I learnt here at tradegang!!
My new total stack including .03" glass's will be
Wood stack for the 40# bow which minus the .08" glass is .265 and calculated a wood stack to increase dw by 10# and added the .03 glass to get .352" total stack....
Another way think goes like this...
.01" glass equals 10# and .003" = 1# for wood therefore 10 x .003 = .03" wood + .265 + .06 = .355" total stack for a 40#@28" 64" ntn bow using .03" glass.
Whew! That was long...please correct me if you think it's still off.
Regards
Dan
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Every fg bow I have made so far has turned out heavy. I've started planning on a 2 inch longer bow and trim down to nail my target weight. This is kind of a crutch I'm using till I get more experience.
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Nice idea EwokArcher but in this case 66" ntn will be Max for me as i have already made the form and its 68" end to end! 66" may not be so bad after all it's just that my draw length is about 26" maybe a bit less so 64" is think a bit on the long side at that draw length....correct me if I'm wrong there.
Dan
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.030" glass sounds light...
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I'm using that since that's all I have for this bow...also have a pair of .04" but I'm keeping that for a hill style I also want to build...it's very expensive for me to import the fiberglass and smoothon this maybe the only bows build so I want the max out of them! I like the Rd type bows they look gracefully and I also somehow like the hills too! Seems easier to build
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Try it, and let us know how it turns out..!
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Double post!
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Hey I've been racking my brains for nothing I think or should I say overthinking this....those posts above where I done those calculations my be wrong....I think I'll go with .350 which is just abit above the .345 stack for a 40# bow and see where I end up Drawweight wise...
Thanks all.
Dan
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Hello Wagstaff.,.you mean try out the stack where I calculated it? Yeah atleast then I would know by how much I was wrong or right!!!! It's worth a try....
If I go with my first instinctive calculation of .352 what would be my glass to wood ratio? Would it be 20.54% or 17.04%???
Thanks
Dan
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All a wild guess, but I think you will be close or a little light of 40#.
Let us know, may help somebody down the line. :thumbsup:
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LOL
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That was a SWAG-- Scientific Wild A** Guess :bigsmyl:
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Lol that description is new to me but fits the idea!....
on a more serious note what is the maximum draw length for the 62" ntn bow?
Thanks,
Dan
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I do some SWAG
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What do you think about my SWAG? which one will come closest do you think?
Also the 62" bow is good upto what draw length
Kenny please speak up its your design nobody knows it better than you!!!!
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Yesterday I glued up my first fiberglass bow it was very stressful for me...but I managed to get it into the hot box and today morning I opened it and cleaned up the glue mess and shaped the limbs...
it's 1.38" at 3" past fades to 5/8" at nocks....after stringing it I checked for limb twist and was happy to find none!!
It's a bit stiff at the last 1/3 of the limbs towards the nocks...as i left it at 5/8" in case I had to correct for limb twist....
Now Should I Reduce it to 1/2"???
I cut the shelf 1.5" above riser center and its about 3/16" positive tiller
It has some limb vibration after the shot and feels a bit shocky!!!
I want to correct that and need some help from you experienced bowyers....
Thanks
Dan
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Sorry I missed your ? Have had hunters on my lease, so a bit busy!
62" will take you past 30" draw.
How is your weight before reducing to 1/2"
I usually go 1.25" up from center for shelf and 1/8" to 0 pos tiller. Not sure how your setup will work.
Try to find bowjunkie's tillering thread, he has some very detailed info in there.
I never have much probs on tiller. But making 1/8 to 0 positive, I mark every 6" on tape and compare distance to string. Also check width there with a dial caliper, you will find they correspond.
The narrow fades and wide tips may cause a bit of shock too.
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Glad your back Kenny...
I ended up using my .04 glass I checked the thickness the black one it was .035" and the white one was .04" so I glued the .035" on the back and the other on the belly...
The strange thing is that the 'white' glass turned out to be clear glass so now I can see the belly lam! the
I made it 66" ntn and its now 46# at 28" I wonder if I cut it to 64" what will the Drawweight be?
I haven't narrowed the tips yet but will do it in a day or two
I think I'll lower the shelf to your specs and tiller for 1/8" positive tiller... Kenny do you shoot split finger?
So maybe on my next bow I can make it 62" cause my draw Length is about 26" only..
Now I think I'll try and find bowjunkie's thread.....
Thanks Kenny for all your help and advice and most of all for your excellent bow design...
I will post pics as soon as I can get this photo bucket thing going!!
Regards
Dan
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It should gain about 6# for 2" less length on limbs.
Narrowing tips may take off a couple #.
Yep , split finger, but anchor kind of like Paul Schafer up higher on cheekbone. Get the view of 3 under with the quiet of split finger. Not saying anybody else should do it but I'm shooting better than I have in a long time...
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Hello Kenny! I've been busy... but now I reduced the width to 1/2" at nocks and it's around 45#@28"... earlier it was 46.something# The limbs are feeling like there is more tension at brace and the excess reflex is a bit Tamer now though there is still some reflex at brace...
I can reduce the last 8" to about 7/16" and it will probably straighten out the limb at brace I think...but wonder if that will weaken the tips or cause twist?????
I also recut the shelf lower and feel it's better balanced now when drawn...
haven't shot it yet but will do so once the grip is shaped....
I shoot split finger too but my anchor is at the corner of my mouth I guess that's the common way...I don't know who Paul schafer is but will try to read up about him on the net.....
Best Regards, Dan.
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Finally got photo bucket working!!!!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f316/djoseph221176/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161001_220915_zpsxn0hnrq7.jpg)
This is with the wide tips strung
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f316/djoseph221176/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161001_220920_zps4nddqrct.jpg)
This is the wide tips drawn profile.....I will upload the new strung and drawn profile with the reduced tip width
Dan
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I like slight reflex showing at brace, but not string touching limb except at nock.
It probably won't twist if it isn't now as long as equal amounts come off each side.
Here is a bit on Paul. Not the taught way to shoot but we are all different and it seems to fit me better...
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=forum;f=54
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I decided to leave well enough alone...but i need to find a suitable finish for my bow and was searching for polyurethane wood finish and came upon this product....
Asian Paints PU (Polyurethane) is an acrylic based clear coating, which offers excellent weather resistance, light-fastness and UV protection to your exterior furniture.
Please tell me from the description if it will be suitable or not? What do you think?
Thanks, Dan
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It seems suitable based on the description. Maybe try a test piece of wood and subject it to some weather variations. It slows the build process but advances the learning curve.
I learned that the hard way. :biglaugh:
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Lol, don't we all....to a greater or lessor extant...but Thanks to tg members its definately been lessor for me!!
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Your brace height looks a bit low there, mine like 6.5 to 7 inches from low part of grip. I make belly side of grip 1.75" from back (front :) ) overlay. More brace height might change how your limb looks to you too.
I'd try the finish like Mike said, you will have a can of it anyway if you use it. If it don't hold up, at least you don't have to strip the bow. :D
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Kenny I did increase the brace height till the bow shot more silent an its at 7" now just like you said ....
I rough shaped the handle and it shoots nicely now...i will sand it smooth today and the post pics before I start to do the finishing....
Hope that finish sticks!! And yeah if not atleast I will be able to peal it off
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Good job so far :)
Don't sand finer than 400 grit or else no varnish will stick properly!
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Thanks Mike..... I'll remember your advice about the sand paper.....but as for trying it on a test piece I don't think I have the patience!!! So I'll take a chance and use this pu coating and find out in time if it's ok or not!!
Dan
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Sanding sealer sanding sealer sanding sealer.... I do 2 coats on the riser and tips of my bow. Sand lightly with 320 grit between coats. Really clean it off before I shoot my clear and have had no problem with clear sticking and it sets like a rock.
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bowhntineverythingnh03743 I put on a coat today....forgot to take pics before doing it!
Anyway I didn't use any sealer!! What is it? Is the sealer a different thing? Actually I don't know anything about wood finishing!
Just starting to learn about these things...
on my boo backed bows I just used varnish and after that rubbed wax on them....
Dan
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Sanding sealer lid used to fill grain and prep the wood to take on finish. I can't tell ya why it works but when I use oily exotic wood like cocobolo I need a few coats of sanding sealer otherwise the finish will never harden. I just use it on all my risers now and it hasn't been an issue.
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Double post
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I gave the bow a light sanding and put on a second coat it dries fine for me....I am using a fine brush and the coating shows streaks and drip marks
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Now you have a coat on you need a sanding block and some fine wet and dry paper. You need to flatten the high spots. Apply another coat...flatten again....repeat until happy or bored....
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What Mike said, and yes a sprayer will do a smoother job an most finishes. Thinning finish will also help(which you may have to do to spray anyway).
How's it shoot?
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Mike thanks for the advice...I did sand of the drip and high spots and lightly sanded and wiped down the rest of the bow and just finished putting on a coat my last one...good, bad or ugly!
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Kenny I shot the bow yesterday and after adjusting the brace its now 6.5" it shoots nice and fast and the noise was very less the vibration after the shot was less too....today I put on some fur silencers and its really silent just a dull thump...
I'm very happy with my bow couldn't stop shooting it
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Here are the final pics minus the fulldraw pic as I got no one at the moment to take a pic for me!
http://s50.photobucket.com/user/djoseph221176/embed/story
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Dan, I can't see the pic, but I think pbucket hates me.. LOL
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Hope this works!!!
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f316/djoseph221176/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161008_085541_zpsjz14ke5o.jpg) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/djoseph221176/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161008_085541_zpsjz14ke5o.jpg.html)
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(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f316/djoseph221176/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161008_085014_zpsvw5bbv46.jpg) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/djoseph221176/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161008_085014_zpsvw5bbv46.jpg.html)
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(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f316/djoseph221176/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161008_084802_zpskvteyzyz.jpg) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/djoseph221176/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161008_084802_zpskvteyzyz.jpg.html)
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(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f316/djoseph221176/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161008_084711_zpswkcrgals.jpg) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/djoseph221176/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161008_084711_zpswkcrgals.jpg.html)
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(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f316/djoseph221176/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161008_084825_zpsklf8wven.jpg) (http://s50.photobucket.com/user/djoseph221176/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161008_084825_zpsklf8wven.jpg.html)
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That looks great Dan! I'll bet you get years of enjoyment from it!! :thumbsup:
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Thanks Kenny I really appreciate all your help and your plan for my successful build....It will be fun to shoot and I plan on making some matching arrows and practicing with it God willing for many years to come....
Best regards,
Dan.
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I used a gloss finish on my bow and would like to reduce the shine....any help on how I should go about it would be nice!!
Thanks,
Dan
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You are welcome!
You can buff it with fine steel wool or put some satin finish on if compatible with the finish you have.
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Thanks Kenny I'll try that once the coating has fully cured....
Regards,
Dan
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Hello Kenny I hope you see this!!! I wanted to ask a question and didn't want to start a new thread...
In your 58/60" bow plan are the tip wedges and power lam necessary or not?
Thanks in advance for your reply...
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The tip wedges and power lam only make the limb bend a bit more mid limb. Helps with string angle and adds a couple fps. Not really necessary and the 58" should go to 28 to 29" DL without.
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One more question please!!
The plan does not give any info on the width profile is it the same as 64" plan?
Regards,
Dan
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Yes, can be, but I like to go about 1 3/8" at fades. Personal preference....
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Thanks a million Kenny....
You are a gem of a person...
Best regards,
Dan
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I can't wait til Roy gets hold of that! But thank you sir!
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Originally posted by kennym:
You are welcome!
You can buff it with fine steel wool or put some satin finish on if compatible with the finish you have.
Just to be clear
0000 steel wool
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Yeah I got that....thanks