Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Raven22 on August 24, 2016, 01:35:00 PM
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Any tips for cutting in the string groves? Mine never seem to line up just right.
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Trace them out with a pencil first.
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Make up a little jig with the angle you like on it. I read a buildcalong on this site, and the fella used one. Itvwas showen in a pic. Maybe he will chime in. I cant remember who it was...
FOUND IT!
http://piratesofarchery.net/bb/viewtopic.php?p=94996
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I just use a try square. Mine are all 45 deg :)
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a jig or square, then use a hacksaw to get the grooves started
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Originally posted by goobersan:
a jig or square, then use a hacksaw to get the grooves started
+2 on that one
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Yup use an engineering square for each side at 45 and a hacksaw blade to cut on each line at the sides, taking care to ensure each side squares across to the other. a chainsaw file to cut the groove, and slowly roll the groove from the side to the upper face, keeping the file working more toward the end of tip as you progress across.
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A tile cutting blade in the hacksaw is even easier to start and control.
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Yupper Mac. That's what I use.
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I typically start them with the edge of my half round file and then finish with a chainsaw file.
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If you use overlays, cut a groove across the back for early tillering. When you get to full brace mark where your string lies and cut your side grooves.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/drawingstringgrooves_zpsf7f6832f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/ekrewson/media/bow%20making/drawingstringgrooves_zpsf7f6832f.jpg.html)
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Eric is totally right, if it a longbow hats definately the best method IMO. I build a fair number of recurves and you can't do that with recurves, but I do the same thing for belly string groves.
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I actually quit running the string grooves down the sides of the limb on my longbows. All that's needed is the groove across the back, that's what holds the string on the bow. I let the loops align where they want along the sides, which they always align perfectly. Haven't had any problems doing it that way.
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Skip the side grooves altogether, you will be happy you did.
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Originally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
Skip the side grooves altogether, you will be happy you did.
What about an R/D glass bow ?
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I see no benefits to side grooves in any bows. Lots of examples of very extreme designs with just a top groove. Like a Mongol horse bow. I build all wood bows. Besides a few that have no tip over lays, the last 50 had only a top groove.
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Originally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
I see no benefits to side grooves in any bows. Lots of examples of very extreme designs with just a top groove. Like a Mongol horse bow. I build all wood bows. Besides a few that have no tip over lays, the last 50 had only a top groove.
Most of mine have a groove on top
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There are some recurves that have very thin overlays, obviously you wont be using a top groove only. I make my grooves just deep enough that I cant feel my string loop. No clicking, no popping, no string alignment issues at all. Makes it really easy.
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Obviously the sides will be as smooth as possible. Are there any issues with the the string loops themselves? Not doubting years of experience but I would think the inside of the loop would show some wear sliding on the outside of the limb.
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No wear that I can see on the bows or strings. My most shot bow has at least 3-5,000 shots through it.
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awesome. I will try this on my next bow. I thank you all for the input :campfire:
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most of my tip are not wide enough for grooves
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/mojam2016/100_0901.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/mojam2016/100_0901.jpg.html)
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Exactly what prompted me to do it, Mark. I have since beefed up my tips, yet I still only use a top groove. Another benefit not mentioned yet is the fact you always know its seated when you brace the bow. Its either in 100% or its not 100%.
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I don't do overlays so here is how I cut the nocks.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/boardbowbuildalong.html
Jawge
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Filing string grooves can be pretty intimidating. I do mine by eye with a chainsaw file. There are guys who make this look soooo easy and it is...for them......in the last year and a half I just file across the top of overlays down into the phenolic, then 90 degrees thru the limbs sides, then down into the back of the limb on belly leaving a "shoulder". I sand the thin sharp edge of the shoulder cause it is sharp and it thin and can catch the string causing a splinter. thie picture is of one I was working on and was not finished..I wish I could spend a week or two watching and learning from one of the Pros.. (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/roughtip_zpsdviltfse.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/roughtip_zpsdviltfse.jpg.html)
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almost done..After posting the pics it looks like they are different bows,,,,but you get the idea of what I am doing.. (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/recurve%20stringgroove_zpsqwigdhjz.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/recurve%20stringgroove_zpsqwigdhjz.jpg.html)
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after a coat or 3 of Krystal Dull. (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/bow%20tip_zpsn6gijwx4.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/bow%20tip_zpsn6gijwx4.jpg.html)
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Great looking grooves, I like that style as well.
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Very nice, Robert.
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Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
Very nice, Robert.
X2. That is my preferred style as well. All of the function with minimal mass.