Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: RedShaft on July 24, 2016, 11:47:00 AM
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I'm thinking of trying to make some Osage bows. Or building my own longbows.
How hard is it? I watched some videos and it don't seem all that bad? I know you guys are probably laughing rite now...
But is it better to build like a board bow to start? Or can I just get into Osage. I'm not interested in havesting my own woods n stuff I just want to buy staves and the tools and get to it.
Is it something that's easily picked up? I'm pretty good at building things and have a natural feel to do things. It's hard to explain but I'm Fabricator by trade.
The thing I like about Osage is that it seems easier than building laminated bows and having jigs and all that.
Guess I just need a little direction. Thanks.
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I would start with board bows to gain some experience. Hickory, red oak for example. Then move onto Osage. What part of Pa are you from?
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"The thing I like about Osage is that it seems easier than building laminated bows and having jigs and all that."
Patience is what I lack to build selfbows.
Glass bows come easier to me. :)
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I have lots of patience. And enjoy doing things manually by hand. Lol. I know odd
I just built my boy a little board bow that came out good and was easy to make. I would enjoy building him and myself bows.
I'm in south central pa
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If yer odd, you and Roy will hit it off!! :thumbsup:
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SW Pa here.
Cool on your boy's bow. Make Dad a board bow now, get your feet wet tillering on a couple. Sometimes it's easy and sometimes ya get your heart broke.
Don't pay no attention to that old coot from Linneusville, Mo, he's one of them glass guys that was just released from dah funny farm.. :)
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That's what I'll do then.
Ha ha. Roy, if ya ain't from Pa. Yer differant....
I may use you guys to answer some questions later on. Thanks!
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I'd suggest starting with a board bow or 2 to help you learn proper tillering. Once you feel comfortable with your progress and ability then maybe you can start a stave bow. There is very little difference between the 2 once you get to floor tiller stage. From there on tillering is tillering.
Boards are a lot cheaper than split staves but good hunting bows can be made from boards.
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I guess the first thing I'll need is to make a tiller.
Any good plans out there for layout to build one?
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(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/20160102_113838.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/dontesbow9.png)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/IMG_7397.jpg)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LBi74lbXkRU
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Thank you Roy.
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Just look at my signature , says it all. And what's wrong with board bows
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I live in an apartment and have no clue how strong the walls are. I bought pulleys and rope, then stopped - can do without a huge bill for a destroyed wall!
I use a 4x2 with 5/16" dowels (off-cuts from making arrows - I hate to waste stuff) every inch at a slight downward angle. I clamp it to my balcony door.
A good way to check symmetry is to take a flat on, as level as possible photo as you can then open in Photoshop and flip a layer copy with 50% transparency - shows up where things are out of whack.
If you don't have/can't justify the cost of Photoshop there's an open source (free) application that will do the trick - it's called GIMP
https://www.gimp.org/
Here's a photo of the tree
(https://postimg.org/image/tofel31sb/)
https://postimg.org/image/tofel31sb/ - text link in case image doesn't show up.
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Go ahead and get your feet wet. You built a small board bow. Go ahead and build yourself one. It's cheaper if it breaks instead of spending $60 on an osage staves just to have it break. Just my. 02
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Thanks guys.
I've already been on today looking up plans and at others designs. Only thing that I seen most guys do is have some funky grips and riser portions. Not seen many with traditional looking cutout with a shelf.
Or is that difficult to accomplish with a board bow?
Thats how I did my sons and it turned out great and no breaks so far.. :archer2:
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With a higher poundage wood bow, you need to be careful cutting in a shelf. It can be done, however you better leave a good 3/4" of wood there for strength.
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Thanks Roy