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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Kopper1013 on March 12, 2016, 09:53:00 AM
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Just wondering what everyone's preferred method is?
Recently I saw a post where a guy uses a table saw to cut out his bow after glue up...I was interested cause I thought maybe a table saw blade might last longer? But then thought bandsaws seem more forgiving (blades don't move as fast and tend to be less aggressive).
So have you tried different ways?
What's YOUR preferred method?
Any trouble using a table saw?
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Band saw then my 36" belt sander to final lines
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I've done them both ways but my preferred method is to use my bandsaw.
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36 or 40 grit on a disc sander, then to the big belt to get good edge on limb.
15 minutes does it all.
I don't wanna subject my bandsaw/blades to glass cutting, probably baby it too much. :D
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Ya otta put a pink apron on dat saw, Kenny... :)
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Band saw to 1/16 - 1/8" (depending on how steady my hands are that day) then belt sand to the line for me.
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I am with Kenny!! A saw can destroy a limb quickly. Also, you don't splinter the glass as badly with a sander.
And Roy, my saw is really old and probably needs crutches. :laughing: :laughing:
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Roy, I luv my bandsaw! ;)
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Bandsaw -belt sander for me.
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I did it the way Kenny suggests on my one and only glass bow and it worked great. Be sure to wear a good dust mask and long sleeved shirt. I run my shop vac close to the disc, too. Hope you're taking notes, Roy. :D
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Originally posted by kennym:
36 or 40 grit on a disc sander, then to the big belt to get good edge on limb.
15 minutes does it all.
I don't wanna subject my bandsaw/blades to glass cutting, probably baby it too much. :D
X2
a 4" hand held grinder
I go outside and grind mine
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I use the bandsaw, with a zero clearance blade plate to eliminate bottom tear out or splinters, cut just outside the line with a blade that has been adequately used, then go to the edge sander with 40 grit to flatten the edge. Takes just a couple of minutes.
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I use an old blade on the table saw. Mark the limb profile and cut outside the lines. Just take it slow, give yourself room for error the first few times until you get the hang of it and wear long sleeves and a mask. I've never had an issue with it. Then I clean it up on the belt sander
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The reason I use the bandsaw and not the table saw is because seldom is my limb edge a straight line from dips to tips.
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I just make wood bows, so what do I know...
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Exactly.
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:)
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I tried using a band saw with a carbide blade once, I just didn't like it, it didn't feel right to me.. I prefer to use a edge sander with a 36 belt to sand near the line then sand to the line with a 120 grit belt. I have a 6x80 belt sander but I used to use the Rigid oscillating belt sander with good success. A good dust collector, respirator and safety glasses should be used too
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Thanks guys for all the replies and info I guess on my next one I'll try my ridgid belt sander with some 36 grit then if I don't love it I'll try the table saw till I figure out what's easiest for me, I've just gone through to many band saw blades hahaha and Roy maybe some day when I actually understand the glass bows I can try a tri-lam but baby steps hahaha
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Just remember, glass dust is not good! Use a collector and a mask!
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don't try to get too close to your lines with the 36 grit belt..its pretty rough and can leave some crazy hard to sand out "tool marks"..36 grit removes glass and wood quickly, I like to stop 1/8" before line, then go to the 120 grit belt. I used to use a 50 grit belt but switched to the 36 since its faster...some guys have awesome skills with table saws and band saws, I'm more comfortable with the edge sanders for removing material from limb edges.
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Robert is right, you can't put it back on once it's off!! :scared:
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Disk grinder as Kenny and then to the big belt sander. I tape and center mark the tape top and belly of limb. Just set my micrometer to half and scripe light line down tape. That way I have a mid line to tiller too. I also have a thin three foot steel ruler I lay out my tapers with . I do not use a pattern. I lay out my notch and the taper length from there that I want. Then lay the ruler on the top, clamp it down with spring clamps and using a sharp knife cut the tape and remove the tape off of the part of the limb I am going to grind. I grind on the disk just so I can still see the glass, Take it to the line sander and grind to the tape.
God bless, Steve
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I tried putting an eight inch abrasive wheel on a table saw and found that to be a good solution.
Steve, I like your system of cutting away the tape to the profile line, but what do you do if the profile lines are not straight?
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If it has fiberglass in it, I prefer not to grind it, might as well toss a bag of asbestos around the shop, you will be breathing it for the rest of your time in the shop. I will do it outdoors, but even that doesn't thrill me. A really sharp hand plane will make short work of it. I use a bi-metal metal cutting bandsaw to rough it out, and I do that outdoors. One needs to work from fat to thin to avoid blowing out glass.
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We do it the same way Steve described.. Cut and remove the tape to the limb profile line.. Use the disc sander to get close, then belt sander to the line for a nice straight limb edge.
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Bandsaw then belt sander.