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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: RJonesRCRV on March 06, 2016, 10:07:00 PM
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I just watched some videos of people vacuum stabilizing wood. They put wood in a vacuum chamber or tight sealed jar with resin or lacquer, put a vacuum pump on it to pull the air from the wood, then slowly allow air back in so the wood sucks in the resin. Has anyone tried this for bow wood. I imagine it would work well for tip overlays, but I have no idea for anything that flexes.
One guy even used it to super marinate some chicken wings.
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https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/16/6019/Stick-Fast-Stabilizing-Resin-%26-Catalyst
With the wood totally submerged in the resin, You vacuum until the air bubbles quit, and the resin is sucked in.
I bought steel tubing 5" x 3" 1/4" wall, long enough for a riser
I am going to Stabilize Spalted maple for a riser
you can also use dye's for any color
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Maybe Crookedstick will chime in I know he has used cactus juice to stabilize wood for use in risers.
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This web site sells cactus juice too
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I've done it many times. What do you want to know.
It's not quite as simple as it looks to gets really good results. The principle is simple but the execution is all in the details. Lots of little tricks.
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I got a piece of 4" clear PVC that i was going to use to make a vacuum chamber to try this out. I don't think I am going to have time to get it together though, so if anyone is wanting to build one let me know. I got the PVC thinking it would be just right for riser blocks.
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Just love to see a build along. I remember reading about dyeing wood using a vacuum pump. Sounds pretty cool
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For thinner stock to be used as tip overlays you can immerse it in minwax wood hardener in a jelly jar for six or eight hours. The wood soaks the hardener up pretty well.
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Go ask around in the blade crafting forum. Those guys have techniques for stabilizing knife scales.
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Akbowman16
How thick is the wall on that PVC ?
Mikkekeswick
What is the difference in the cactus juice and the Stick-fast ?
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Yes I have done it to maple. And it works well. Buy the time you pay for the juice and shipping it gets expensive. +$30 would break even on a TD riser. Here is a pic of one with brown and red dyed pieces. Adds a lot of weight also. If you want to know more PM me. The last one is brown with a bloodwood beam.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/crookedstic/DSC01733_zpsa3b8d97f.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/crookedstic/DSC01729_zps499ba822.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/crookedstic/DSC01677_zps41355df0.jpg)
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Mark it is Schedule 40. I think it said it was rated for 210psi. I have no doubt that it would handle 27 inches of vacuum. Also I noticed that it has a blue tint to it so its not perfectly clear, but you would still be able to see whats going on inside it pretty well. Im not 100% sure on the length (i can get a measurement) but i think its 30".
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Originally posted by Akbowman16:
Mark it is Schedule 40. I think it said it was rated for 210psi. I have no doubt that it would handle 27 inches of vacuum. Also I noticed that it has a blue tint to it so its not perfectly clear, but you would still be able to see whats going on inside it pretty well. Im not 100% sure on the length (i can get a measurement) but i think its 30".
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/16/6019/Stick-Fast-Stabilizing-Resin-%26-Catalyst
They said there Stick-Fast would eat Plexiglass.
I wanted to lay mine down some and they said it would eat the plex.Top. I don't know about PVC ???
I want to take Hard rock Maple and vacuum Lacquer thinner and wood dye, dark grey or burgundy or dark green maybe.
If you don't let it fully saturated the wood you may get some cool looking stuff. :dunno:
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Yeah I never even considered that Mark. I watched a YouTube video and the guy was using clear PVC for his vacuum chamber but I have no clue what type of resin he was using. I'll see if I can find the video again and see if it says what type he uses.
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Here you go Mark... Different kind of resin but this is what i was planning to make.
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/16/6283/Cactus-Juice-JuiceProof-Stabilizing-Vacuum-Chamber?term=vacuum%20system
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Sch. 40 will work. I used a 1/4 lexan top with a rubber gasket It got hair line cracks after awhile. You do not what anything plexi glass it will implode.
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cool
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Vacuums are powerful things.
my first chamber had a half inch clear cast lexan top on a 10" pvc pipe. the entire top filled with checks but never gave...also had it drilled for the plumbing and gauge.
Went to 3/4" and put fittings in side of pipe. Many cycles later with no issues.
I rarely use colors at this time at least, but have stabilize lots of walnut burl, Koa, and spalted maple. Really works well when you do things properly.
It's all about having completely dry wood to start.
BigJim
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X2 on having dry wood. The guy I get my juice from said to put the wood in a hot box about 200 for a couple of hours and let it cool in a plastic bag so not to draw any moisture. When back to room temp do the vacuum thing to it. I have even do a piece of Spectraply and it took the resin really good.
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good info
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The closer you get your wood to 0% moisture the better it will work. After all the resin can only go where water would have been. The problem with that is of course checking. Riser blocks can be a pain to get dry enough to warrant doing it.
The cracks you get in the 'lid' are not a problem if you use the correct material. In fact they are normal. A lot of the commercially available setup will appear 'cracked' after a few hours at vacuum.