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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: bowhunter15 on December 30, 2015, 04:09:00 PM
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Goal: make tapered lams
Have: Bandsaw, Belt/Disc Sander Combo, Taper Sleds
My initial goal was to make the lams like in the Poor Folk Bows site:
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j308/teenathlete3030/Sander%20Fixture_zpsfytpvg3q.png) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/teenathlete3030/media/Sander%20Fixture_zpsfytpvg3q.png.html)
The problem is, my taper sleds are just a bit too thick to slide under the belt sander like he did. So, option 1 would be to order a set of tapers + shipping, which will set me back $20-30 and let my nice taper sleds collect dust.
Option 2 would be modifying my belt sander like the guy on the anfield archery site.
http://www.anfieldarchery.com/index.php?p=densingle&product=5
In order to do that, I'd need to remove the bolt from the Disc sander (M6x16) and attach a spindle sanding drum. That bolt and lock washer are what make the disc spin. When you try to turn it counterclockwise, the belt just rotates as the motor turns. How do you remove such a bolt? Hold the belt tight with one hand and quickly try to wrench the bolt and lock washer loose? I imagine it's not designed to be removed easily. Any chance it would be a left handed thread?
Just trying to figure out what is going to be my best option. I'll need to spend money either way. Modding the sander and using the taper sleds will probably be more cost and work, but could yield better results I'm thinking. These are for all wood bows so minor imperfections will be removed in tillering.
(http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j308/teenathlete3030/Sander%20BOM_zps3pzsetuq.png) (http://s83.photobucket.com/user/teenathlete3030/media/Sander%20BOM_zps3pzsetuq.png.html)
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I built a small lam grinder like this one
http://www.buildyourownbow.com/how-to-make-a-simple-thickness-sander-for-bow-laminations/
Small 1/4 -1/2 hp motors can be had relatively cheap and yu won't have to bastardize your belt sander.
I recommend going 1/2hp if you do. Mine is 1/4hp and I wish I had gone bigger.
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Looks like a good design. If I didn't have a drum sander that's what I'd be making.
Even a proper drum sander isn't that hard to make and there are good plans on the net.
I suppose it just depends on how much you want to make tapered lams!
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Thanks for the input guys. I was hoping I could just get a 2 for 1 with the belt sander motor, but it sounds like a dedicated machine is best. I looked at motors on Amazon Prime. Looks like I can get a 1/2 hp ~1700 rpm motor shipped for around $100.
I'll try one more thing first, which would be to put a jig on the disk sander to make a template.
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I didn't realize he was driving it off a pulley. At actually seems pretty convenient since the thickness sander and belt sander can be detached and the belt sander used as normal. Truth be told I almost never use the disc on my combo sander.
Here is an idea:
Drill 4 holes in the disc of the disc sander and tap them to receive screws ... Whatever size ... Say 10-24.
Roughly cut out a round piece of 3/4-1" thick material to make the drive pulley, and drill 4 holes through the drive pulley corresponding to the holes in the disc.
Attach the drive pulley to the disc using screws. If you're holes are accurate, it should be close to centered already, but probably not perfect. Take some sandpaper glued to a straight board and turn the sander on. Use the board, one end against the table, and the other end in hand, and raise it up under the drive pulley and carefully sand the drive pulley to round it out perfectly.
Then take a half round file and just the same way, with the sander running, cut a groove in the outside of the drive pulley for the belt.
Hope that makes sense.