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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: JOLLYMON on November 30, 2015, 02:32:00 PM
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I am going to try my hand at a hickory self bow. I have a stave and have started peeling bark. Under the bark is a dark layer. Is this where I need to stop for the back of the bow or do I need to peel further into the light wood? Also I do not have a band saw. What is the best way to cut the stave down to a more board like shape. Does a circular saw work or do I just need to start hacking with a hatchet? Thanks
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The darker brown wood directly under the bark is what's known as inner bark, and has grain much like regular wood; which is why it is easy to confuse it with yearly growth.
This inner bark is typically too brittle to be adequate as a back for your bow so you want to get down below it into the white yearly growth rings. But you can leave little bits here and there if inner bark on the back, as long as it isn't in a big area (kind of creates camouflage) But be careful, try not to violate that white ring.
A hatchet, draw-knife and rasp are most of what I use to get the bow to the profile lines; they are what my bowyering mentor uses. It's more of what you are confident with; me personally I wouldn't go at one of my bows with a circular saw because I'm not too good with one lol! But if you opt for the hatchet, then be ready for a workout; hickory is tough stuff!
You can make a bow out of a split stave of hickory granted you have a big enough stave to get the full profile lines (I do 68" ttt, 4 inch handle 2 inch fades, 2" wide out to at least mid limb then taper to 1/2") there's rarely a need to plane it square like a board unless you prefer it :thumbsup:
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Thanks. I guess I'll look for a good hatchet and go to town. The one I have is bouncing off the hickory.
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Try scraping the dark layer until you get to the bright wood. Be as careful as possible not to take off too much of the white wood. Some folks leave some of the cambium(dark layer)on the back as camo.
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Originally posted by JOLLYMON:
Thanks. I guess I'll look for a good hatchet and go to town. The one I have is bouncing off the hickory.
Might try just giving it a good sharpen. Then you could spend that money on a draw knife and/or rasps which really make things easier.
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Post pics so folks can see and better give you advice. If you do a pyramid design you could cut a lot of the profile out with your power tools. Not recommended unless you have a steady hand.
A draw knife works well and a good rasp and heck you can make a bow.
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I forgot to mention too that cabinet scrapers are a great investment! I picked up a variety pack from our local wood craft store for like $20. They are worth their weight in gold when tillering.
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Thanks for the info. My first piece of hickory turned out to have a major twist so that has been scrapped. My neighbor cut down a large hickory which I scavenged and have split into staves. As I was splitting the bark peeled off. Under the bark grubs have bored along the surface about 1/8 inch into the wood. Is this usable if I scrape the top off down to the next ring or is this wood ruined? I also have what I think is elm and may be able to get a nice piece of maple.
Thanks for any info.
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Sounds like the hickory you salvaged had been on the ground a while. If so it isn't bow wood, hickory degrades quickly on the ground.
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I wondered about that. The tree died this summer and I got it as soon as it was cut down. How would I evaluate the wood?
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The tree died standing and you cut it down? If so, I'd say its shot for bow wood.
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Thanks. I'll go look for a new tree.
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Spring is the best time to cut whitewoods so the bark slips and is easily removed.
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It was the grubs that tipped me off, they won't be in usable hickory bow wood.