Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: mlsthmpsn on October 28, 2015, 09:17:00 AM
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So, I got a hankering to build a bow (and probably more). I have access to many logs of different species, and will start to gather some to season for later builds.
In the meantime, I figured I'd start with a simple hickory board bow. I don't like the wide flat board bows at all. My goal is something similar to the one built by 30coupe a few years ago (http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=007684;p=1) .
So I found one 6' board that might work, but being a total beginner, thought I could use some pointers/thoughts on my board selection. There was one other 8' board that was a close second, but ran off on both ends and one side. (I can try to get better pics, but my phone is finicky about macro shots...i wish they'd make the software listen to me when I tell it where to focus!!!)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/20151026_174856_zpsy4kdbpgu.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/20151026_174903_zpst4dr8ybl.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/20151026_174910_zpscje98mfo.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/20151026_174913_zpsxxzvs3kv.jpg)
It's about 70/30 late growth, but can't seem to get a pic of this with the rough ends.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/20151026_175026_zps1x5zc5gq.jpg)
I'll probably rawhide back this one. I have Bird's Eye and Curly Maple, Cherry, Red oak and maybe some Walnut and a few other hardwood pieces to form a laminated riser from (leftovers from the custom-fit cutting board tops I built for my in-laws's camper)
Any thoughts on this board would be appreciated.
Thanks,
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This is what I am aiming for....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v612/30coupe/Archery%20Stuff/Hickory%20Board%20Bow/IMG_0849.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v612/30coupe/Archery%20Stuff/Hickory%20Board%20Bow/IMG_0850.jpg)
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That board looks pretty good. Designing the bow so it is appropriate for the wood used is more important than using the wood you have to make the bow you want.
How wide is this board. If less than 1 1/2" make it longer, like 68" for 28" draw.
Get the other board(8'). If the grain isn't quite as good, backing is an option with a hard(wood) or soft(rawhide, silk, linen).
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This board is a 1x2, so it's 1.5" wide, the other board is also 1.5" wide (all the other widths were terribly knotted and twisted). I'll take a look at the other board again, plus I'm going to check a different stack tomorrow.
My plan for the bow is 66-68", cut from the best section of this board. Not sure on weight, but maybe in the 45# range. I was also looking into steam bending some reflex into it.
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I would use it in a heart beat.
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All of what you want to do is possible with that board.
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OK, thanks guys...just wanted to make sure what I thought would work, is accurate.
I assume it's possible to stain rawhide after it is applied, then seal the entire bow with poly? Also, should I worry about tip overlays for my first build, or just get my feet wet first?
Thanks,
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I'd advise you to leave it straight to begin with. Learn to tiller a straight bow first.
If you do try to reflex the limbs you should look into heat treating methods instead of steam. steamed in bends in working areas will almost certainly pull out.
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Sounds good. Should I worry at all about the slight bend already in the board (maybe 1")?
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Make the concave side the back if the grain allows it.
Do as Mike Suggested too and learn proper tiller before you try to get too fancy.
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Thanks Pat, I'll have to look again...one side seemed better than the other.
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I agree that board is a good candidate. 45# and 68" long and I think you're in business. Both sides look pretty good. Use whichever side for the back that gives you a little reflex don't sweat the minor imperfections with hickory.
I sincerely doubt a bow from that board is going to have a tension failure if tillered well.
Keep us posted as you progress.
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The grain is ok. There are run outs or places where the grain line cease being parallel to the face or edge of the bow.
For your first, I suggest you make a bend in the handle bow with no added handle piece and leave the handle full width.
For 45-50# you can narrow the board to 1 3/8".
More on my site.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/
Jawge
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I've been poking around on your site for a couple weeks now Gary. Lots of info there that I'm sure to use. Thanks for hosting that!
I'm curious what your thoughts are for the "bend in handle" bow for a first-timer? Benefits/Downsides? Really any thoughts would be great.
Thanks again,
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So, I was walking through the local Fleet Farm the other day, and noticed this pre-made leg put together from two (poorly) slip-matched pieces of Curly Ash....thought it could come in handy for some riser pieces. Easy enough to separate, and use as laminates...should get six 7" x 3/4" pieces.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/2015-11-042009.22.01_zpslgzxhwz8.jpg)
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Bend in the handle bows are good first bows.
Adding that extra piece in the handle can create problems where it pops off, if not done properly.
The taper of the fades has to extend into the limb.
Bend in the handle bows are easier for the first timer to tiller. You also have more of the bow working.
I'd back that board as it is ok, not great, particularly if you are going to make a non bending handle.
Jawge
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Well, I'm finally getting back to this bow now that our harshest weather has passed. I have it shaped out and working it down in floor tillering. It's down to 1.3" at the fades and 0.4" at the tips
One thing I noticed was that it seems to be twisting slightly into a S shape along its length. Pictures sort of show it, but it's a bit more pronounced in reality.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/20160304_164207_zpsxtcktw2b.jpg)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/20160304_164107_zpsjxjyc8ma.jpg)
I stopped shaving it down when I noticed this. I'm thinking that it maybe soaked up some humidity in the shop over the past 2 days (was in the house all winter). I brought it back in the house to see if it straightens this weekend.
Any thoughts? I haven't got it down enough to string up and start tillering.
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I've had a couple of narrow hickory and red elm boards that I store in the rafters of my basement warp a little bit. I suppose they gain moisture in the summer and lose it during our dry winters. I wouldn't worry about it as long as the tips aren't twisted and your string from tip to tip bisects the handle. I've seen a lot of nice selfbows that have some twist or wiggle to them.
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Sure looks like it would make some nice riser pieces for sure. ;)
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Originally posted by 1oldbowguy:
Sure looks like it would make some nice riser pieces for sure. ;)
Not ready to throw the towel in already. At lathe least it will be good practice for tillering and other things. It's my first bow, so I'm going to try to finish it.
Plus, my 3 year old son told me last week he wants me to build him a bow too. He "helps" with many of my projects. So if it is junk, I can whittle a kid's bow out of it later.
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I am getting the tip overlays fitted and glued on this weekend. And will keep scraping down the limbs so I can cut knocks and get a string on it... My homemade stainless scrapers are working pretty darn good. Way faster than the sure form, rasp, and draw knife combined.
I have the riser pieces glued together as well and I'll get that shaped before gluing that on, before I get too far in to tillering.
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Do not thin the handle area where you are going to glue your riser pieces on. It must be left full board thickness so that the risers pieces don't pop off when the bow is bent.
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I have only thinned it marginally in fitting the riser. Maybe 1/16th of an inch.
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I think that bend in the handle bows are easier to tiller and yield a little more safety margin.
I think you were asking me. Not sure.
Jawge
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Originally posted by George Tsoukalas:
I think that bend in the handle bows are easier to tiller and yield a little more safety margin.
I think you were asking me. Not sure.
Jawge
I think we briefly discussed this a while back. For some reason, my brain cannot get wrapped around the "bend in handle" design. It thinks of risers and sight windows for some reason.
I do appreciate your insight and help...I'll be backing this one with some tie silk most likely. Have a few pulled out, but am going to check the thrift stores for anything in a different pattern.
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Been slowly whittling on this when I get time. The board has taken on some set, and I've only pulled it to 30# on the tiller stick. I've read this is normal for Hickory, and that I could dry to temper or heat some reflex back into it. Not sure if I'm going to go that route or just back it (silk tie is ready to go) and finish out.... Thoughts?
I've been using a Gizmo this morning, got both limbs bending better, just not equal to each other (lower limb is still stronger)
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/20160422_111636_zpsajjmmf7k_edit_1461344743957_zpsqzrts1th.jpg)
Here is the handle riser.
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/20160422_101645_zpsipgmvyw2_edit_1461344638734_zpseldconmi.jpg)
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I like windows too. My wife and I spent some quality time together cleaning them in our house a few days ago. :)
Jawge
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Haven't backed it yet, and thinking I may try to heat some reflex into it....just having too much fun bending it right now.
I got the two limbs bending more even, but have a bit to go before getting it on the short string. I'm pulling it to 35# and checking things with the Gizmo.
Before:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/eb70b6cb-85c5-4e39-b45b-980de60dade1_zpsz3400joy.jpg)
After:
(http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj56/mlsthmpsn/Hunting/0adb931e-188d-480e-986e-07ce89db6eec_zpstwjrvgpt.jpg)
Thoughts or anything you guys notice?
Thanks,
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Right limb is stiffer than left and both need to start to bend where the fades end. Mark a dark pencil line at the end of each of the fades and keep removing wood slowly there and testing the bend. Don't overdo it in that spot. Takes long sweeps with your wood removal tool.
Much more on my site.
http://traditionalarchery101.com/
Jawge