Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Arrowcraft on September 30, 2015, 03:53:00 PM
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want to know whyi had to replace worn velcro shelf so soon maybe shot 1000 arrows through it?
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That's a lot of arrows over Velcro.
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you can get it at wal-___ and make your own
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Dirt Cheap too...
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this is what we use at my house. it lasts along time.. http://www.3riversarchery.com/Adhesive+Backed+Leather+Bow+Grip+Material_i6097X_baseitem.html
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Yep. Velcro wears out pretty fast compared to other materials.
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It wears very fast, but I can also peel that little 1/2" dot off and stick a new one on in 30 seconds. I like that aspect, no glue. I use an electric razor to shave the Velcro right down tight, so mine wear even faster.
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Velcro might be a cheap alternative for shelves, but not a great choice for sideplates.
It pushes the arrow much farther away from center than say a calf hair plate or thin piece of leather and then continues to wear as you shoot.
Most guys shoot an arrow that is a little stiff and can benefit out of the thinner side plate.
BigJIm
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The beaver tails that BigJim sells make great grips for bows, but the leftover pieces make the best arrow rest material. I haven't wore one out yet!
I orient the "scales" to point away from the bow string.
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That is true Blaino, especially if you can benefit out of a very thin side plate.
The tip of the tail with a little glue or two sided tape is likely under a 1/32" thick total. Now this can be thicker if cut from the more center or but of the tail and can also be built out with a shim if necessary.
I use calf hair mostly as it is very thin and if your arrows are tuned well, it won't wear much.
On the shelf, I prefer Bear hair or even Velcro, but calf also works well.
BigJim
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never had wear issues with Velcro if things are in tune.
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I never sat flat (directly) on Velcro.
Instead I've always put either a toothpick sanded flat on one side, or a small piece of leather, sloping towards the crotch of the side plate and shelf.
minimizes contact and torque.
it WILL wear out where the arrow rides, but really its not a huge deal as the leather or toothpick does a fine job as a shelf.
I also took a pair of my fly tying scissors and sheared the Velcro shorter. Its kinda a bit poofy for me.
For small longbow shelfs I prefer leather like most people but still opt for the pressure point under the leather if I can get one in and not have issues. Traditional hill style shelfs are tiny, but it is still possible to get a fine strip of leather under a leather shelf plate to again minimize contact. Worth doing imho!
If your shelf is big enough (recurve or hybrid longbow), I've used pieces of broken arrows for the pressure point. I like the radius again for minimizing the minimized contact point. The smaller the better without getting to a knife point for obvious reasons.
I leave a gap in the crotch sheared right down to the sticky material, or a gap in the leather (skived) along with the pressure point itself slightly sloped. It really doesn't hold the arrow on but it does help when its on a hanger, and again.....minimizes contact. There's a bit of redundancy I keep repeating here for a reason!
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I've been using the loop side of the Velcro.Its thinner for the side and has good lift.
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I like Velcro, I just change it every season or so ...
BigJim is right about the side plate. I use it for that too, but you also have to watch cause as it wears it really can affect your tune cause your center shot changes. Especially if your really anal about bare shaft and broadness tuning .... Which we all should be.
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I use Industrial velcro which is a bit thicker and with the proper arrow it lasts forever.
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I use Industrial velcro which is a bit thicker and with the proper arrow it lasts forever.