Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Krasus on June 25, 2015, 01:42:00 AM
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Can you do a riser style where the limbs are glued up and then the riser is glued onto the belly? I want to show off more of my riser wood grain,but not sure if this is a bad idea.
Input much appreciated
Thanks!
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It depends on the bow's design. I do it all the time. That's how many of us assemble all-wooden bows... but it's possible with glass bows too.
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I want to do it on a glass r/d
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Anyone have anything else to add?
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I have looked at Centaur bows made by Jim Neaves.. I like his style of risers..is that what you are going to do?
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I have done it with the top half of the riser having the glass run through the riser and the top section glued to belly glass. So I say yes "but"...
I recommend using some type of pin/toothpick method to keep it in place. You will have belly glass exposed during glue up that has been roughed up and taped on each end of where you want it. If anything moves or slides as they love to do during glue up it ain't Purdy!
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On the one piece Bingham's style recurve I have only had a 020 veneer and 040 glass on the back side of the riser on 15-20 bows. I think you could glue the riser under the belly glass to show off the pretty wood and be fine..but I would not glue riser over the glass.. Keep it like a sandwich with the glass on the outside
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More like instead of having the riser locked into the bow by having it sandwiched inside the glass. I wanted to have the entire riser glued to the outside of the glass. On top so to speak.
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Well; you go first and show off the results. ((Kidding) I am guessing that you are using colored glass since you are wanting more riser wood showing???
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I think the fades could break or pop off if you do that..
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Yes, you could do it.. You will have to create a LONG fade of riser material onto the belly side of your lam and glass stack...
Several bowyers produce a bow somewhat like you describe, but they use a thin "Sandwich Riser" between the stack at the riser location, and the remainder of riser wood attached to the belly side. I think A&H makes the thinnest snadwiched riser, but many do it..
You dont want the stack to be able to flex against your riser, and create stress where they are glued together.
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Yep the lower part of these grips are after the glueup. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/crookedstic/Shortbow/2012-12-25173008.jpg)
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Same as Mikes, and I might go clear to the low part of grip on the next one. Won't hurt a thing with good glue and don't get the belly of riser out on fades to make the overlays pop off.
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/IMG_1034_zpsbcdks2pu.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/kennym/media/IMG_1034_zpsbcdks2pu.jpg.html)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d34/kennym/IMG_1032_zps7zelvkqv.jpg) (http://s32.photobucket.com/user/kennym/media/IMG_1032_zps7zelvkqv.jpg.html)
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this is my version of belly overlays. i think Krasus is asking if he can glue a standard stack together then glue the whole riser onto the belly glass. I think the way Centaurs are built would be stronger than just gluing the riser "fade and all" to the belly of thin stack.. (http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt46/Robertfishes/dymalux%20riser_zpslbxtpbuz.jpg) (http://s596.photobucket.com/user/Robertfishes/media/dymalux%20riser_zpslbxtpbuz.jpg.html)
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Great stuff good to know about this build alternative. :thumbsup:
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I did one the other day
D/R 18" x .140 power lam, taper .070 per inch, then my riser will be 14"
I glued the stack with power lam only.
Then glue the riser on the belly.
I'am going to drill 3 or 4 1/4"holes through the stack into the riser and pin it with hardwood dowels and smooth-on.
:dunno:
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I'am not saying it will work
but I'am trying it.
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Prefect. Thanks guys! That's exactly what I was wondering!