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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: D.A. Davis on May 16, 2015, 01:41:00 PM
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What type of finish does everybody use? I've always used Tung Oil (5 coats, wet sanded between each coat) and clear polyurethane (5 coats, wet sanded between each coat).
Would like to find something durable, long lasting, and not so time consuming.
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I think any good durable finish is time consuming. I have used spar varnish, massey finish with Devcon 2 ton epoxy, and now Thunderbird. All take time.
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I use Thunderbird. Tough as nails. Looks great. I think it's easy to use.
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I was thinking of trying Thunderbird.
When I sway time consuming, I'm speaking mostly about total time including drying time. In my post I mentioned that I use tung oil and clear polyurethane; 5 coats each with wet sanding. That's 10 days putting on the finish, including one day drying time per coat.
Have you ever tried putting Thunderbird over a hydrographic dip finish? I'm wondering if the dip finish would stay intact?
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No I haven't put it over a dipped finish.
I'll tell ya this though, I have sprayed many bows with Thunderbird that took only 2 days to finish. It generally goes something like this....
On day 1, I spray the bow every 2-3 hours until I feel sufficient depth is achieved and the wood's pores are adequately filled.
On day 2, I sand, steel wool, and check to see if finish is adequately leveled. If it is, I apply a couple of light finish coats and that's it.
If there are still pock marks visible after sanding due to deep pores in the wood, I again spray every 2-3 hours until I feel enough finish has been layed down, and then come back a day or two later to sand and apply the final coat.
On bows that were very smooth to begin with(like diffuse porous woods), or when I wasn't concerned with an absolutely flawless finish, I have completed them in just 1 day and they still look very good.
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Thanks Bowjunkie.
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I just recently used spray spar urethane and I liked that. Not very difficult at all.
I also really like the wipe on poly. Seems to be very forgiving because it goes on so thin. Takes a number of coats, but it's basically idiot proof, which I like.
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I've tried most of the ones listed above with good results but I like Krystal dull the best.
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I re-engaged with Big Jim's Buffalo Hide Bow Finish. Actually this is the first time using Big Jim's previously I was using Thunderbird - I believe this round is working out awesome. First coat went on this evening...I have been using a wipe on poly but never truly satisfied with the final results.
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You can have a bow finished with tbird in two . A couple more days to cure depending on Humidity.yes you can spray over a dipped bow.
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Thanks Bow man. I've got a bow I'm wanting to build for a friend that served in the U.S. Army in Afghanistan for several tours. He was a Captain, and a Bronze Star recipient. The bow will be themed to some extent with portions dipped in Multicam camo. Add a couple insignias, and I think it could come out pretty nice. I would like to find some wood that is native to Afghanistan, as well. If you have any sources for woods from the Middle East, please share.
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wow, they have a birch, fir, spruce, pine and an oak( all Himalayan varieties) , but the coolest is, they have a sub specie of the European Yew.
only 11 trees listed as native to afghanistan- theres gotta be more!!
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true enough- found some more
quote "there is abundant growth of large forest trees, among which conifers are the most noble and prominent, such as Cedrus deodara, Abies excelsa, Pinus longifolia, Pinus pinaster, Stone pine (the edible pine, although this species is probably introduced, since it is original to Spain and Portugal) and the larch. There is also the yew, the hazel, juniper, walnut, wild peach and almond. Growing under the shade of these are several varieties of rose, honeysuckle, currant, gooseberry, hawthorn, rhododendron and a luxuriant herbage, among which the ranunculus family is important for frequency and number of genera. The lemon and wild vine are also here met with, but are more common on the northern mountains. The walnut and oak (evergreen, holly-leaved and kermes) descend to the secondary heights, where they become mixed with alder, ash, khinjak, Arbor-vitae, juniper, with species of Astragalus, &c. Here also are Indigoferae rind dwarf laburnum."
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Well my second round with the Buffalo Hide/T-bird has resulted in a great big FLOP! My first coat laid down nice - I waited almost 24 hours and then applied a second coat attempted the same method but ended up with a bad case of "orange peel" very frustrating evening and now I am about ready to take the bow and wrap it around a tree. I put so much effort to build a beautiful bow and mess it up in the final process. I just can't seem to get this bow finish to lay down nice.
What is even more frustrating is that everyone else seems to say it is so easy...
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Let it cure for a day or two and wet sand it out. Time consuming but the results if done right will be good.
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Originally posted by cunruhshoot:
Well my second round with the Buffalo Hide/T-bird has resulted in a great big FLOP! My first coat laid down nice - I waited almost 24 hours and then applied a second coat attempted the same method but ended up with a bad case of "orange peel" very frustrating evening and now I am about ready to take the bow and wrap it around a tree. I put so much effort to build a beautiful bow and mess it up in the final process. I just can't seem to get this bow finish to lay down nice.
What is even more frustrating is that everyone else seems to say it is so easy...
Sounds like you put it on two heavy to quickly. on the second coat you also need to be sure to give a light sanding between coats of gloss. sand it down smooth and apply 3 or 4 super light coat evenly over bow.
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Will do...Thanks David.
I know that I will figure it out eventually I just don't have any past experience with spray on finish so it has been trial and error for me, mostly error.
I do think that I am attempting to cover to thick at one time...I am using a .8 tip on my sprayer is that the correct size?
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Originally posted by cunruhshoot:
Will do...Thanks David.
I know that I will figure it out eventually I just don't have any past experience with spray on finish so it has been trial and error for me, mostly error.
I do think that I am attempting to cover to thick at one time...I am using a .8 tip on my sprayer is that the correct size?
Yes that size is fine keep the air pressure adjustment opened up lots of air pressure keep the adjustments for the spray material turned down
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I found this document that lists all the fruit and forest trees of Afghanistan. I'm really intrigued by the Almond and Pistachio woods. Here's the link to the document:
http://eafghanag.ucdavis.edu/c_livestock/Man_For_Fodder_Trees_Afghan_FAO.pdf
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Thanks David - I was using pretty high air pressure but also high on the material side - thus the too heavy flow of material.
D.A. I am sorry for side tracking your thread - I made it more about my questions and journey than yours...
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No problem, cunruhshoot. The information is useful.
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I used MinWax Spar urethane in the rattle can for nearly 6 years. Spar is cheap, requires no spray equipment but.. You have to seal up any oily woods before adding finish, it can dry in 6 hours in the right conditions But takes at least 3 days to cure and you better wait 7 days before dancing out any runs...In February this year I started using Krystal Dull and Gloss from Big Jim. The Krystal drys in about 20 minutes, I believe you could sand out any runs after 20 minutes..I had to buy a 26 gallon compressor( bigger would be better), inline filters, a mini HVLP touch up gun that I had to make a 1.4mm tip for, hoses, etc...so far I am very happy with the Krystal its an improvement over the spar.. but I know T-Bird or Big Jim's Buffalo Hide is a better, tougher finish. One day I will give it a try. I always wanted to try a "Massie" type Finish" but never have.
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Ok - confession time! :D I thought I knew what I did not know! It really helps when using a spray gun to know what each of the knobs do in regards to function. :knothead: I did a little web research and discovered that the knob that I thought was air pressure was in fact the amount of material being released! And I did not even realize there was a separate air pressure dial separate from the gauge pressure.
Followed some great instructions on how to set up your spray gun and PROBLEM SOLVED!
My apologies to Big Jim's Buffalo Hide and David with Thunderbird for indicating that your product was difficult to apply. It appears it was all user error...
I am now on my way to putting the final touches on my bows that I have longed for! :goldtooth: