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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Mad Max on April 19, 2015, 07:10:00 PM
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A hour ago I strung it and the right side was 3" lower than the left.
I strung it up just a minute ago and it"s about 1" lower
using the stringer below
If I pick up this bow by one end the other limb will straighten out
My take down bows are 2" longer and 2" less reflex with 7-1/2" brace.
Does it need more brace?
I know I have a lot of reflex in it
What do you think?
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/Tnclassis2015/100_0606_zpszroechkd.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/Tnclassis2015/100_0606_zpszroechkd.jpg.html)
(http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b593/osagemark/Tnclassis2015/100_0605_zpslz8gdlhs.jpg) (http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/osagemark/media/Tnclassis2015/100_0605_zpslz8gdlhs.jpg.html)
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Something is Array. That profile would be a toughy for me.
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WOW!! I'm leaning to thin limbs with lots of reflex and stiff tips... :dunno:
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I'am going to try more brace tomorrow
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Some of the hornbows i've made can do this. It normally arises when you pressure of bracing isn't dead even on both limbs. The one that has most pressure on it will be bent more when it's actually braced. To fix it on a hornbow you would squeeze the string of the limb that's bending most into it's belly - thus stressing the 'stiffer' limb. If you catch it quick enough it only takes a couple of seconds to fix. Ot you can use a small section of inner tube pushed over the tip.
However all that is true with a hornbow....I haven't got the foggiest idea whether it will work on a glass bow.....
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Yep, string it the other way next time, putting the stringer 'pouch' on the other limb and see how it looks.
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I've had a similar thing to what Mikekeswick was saying, but with wood bows. I assume the same applies to glass bows since you can "bump" some twist out of glas limbs if it's minor.
I would try what mike is suggesting if it makes sense. Basically squeeze the string and limb together slightly on the weak side. This causes the stronger limb to bend more, and may sort things out a bit.
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Very little vertical stability. you will normally gain some more stability by going down in brace so that the limbs are a bit straighter. No way is a bow any good that looses its stability to a point that one limb overpowers the other to the point that simply stringing it causes the limb to completely overpower the other limb like that bottom limb is doing. My suggestion is that you tiller the limbs dead even and see if you can make a bow out of it and lower your brace a half inch and see if that works. Been there and done that several times when building new designs. Specially with static tips.
Sometimes the design simply calls for higher poundage bows in order to get enough stability in the limbs to work properly.
God bless, Steve
God bless, Steve
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cool
Thanks
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yup , 'member what you said, that you thought that the bow was just too light, with too little stack thickness in there- sixby has a good idea there.
so Stephen, if he built the bow narrower, so that he could bump up the stack would that help- or would that lead to other issues. he is limited with the draw weight.
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What's the weight on it?
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i think its around #25 @28
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Don't use a stringer, look up the method of stringing used by Saluki for horn bows. My own horn bow will look like that if I use a stringer. If you can mess with it and it evens out, it's just the instability inherent in statics. Amazing efficiency, just a bit touchy.
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yup grozer says that if one uses anything except the step thru method- all warranties are void.
what does saluki advocate
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Pretty much the same thing. I use it on all my bows-it didn't get perfected over millenia for no reason.
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Alright I did some more tillering and so far so good.
Did some shooting 28# @ 28" 186 fps average 289 grain arrow
I checked out Saluki step through, got it
also shot my 25# T/D static recurve at 182 fps average
The 2-1/2" more reflex did not do much, and alot more unstable
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At 28 lb he will have to drop the brace to about 6 1/2 inches and tiller to dead even tiller. It will still be verticaly unstable but perhaps it will not overpower like it is. As to stack depth. Yes a narrower limb with deeper stack will be best. I would also make the belly glass a bit thicker than the back glass.
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so...maybe grind the back glass down to 020- leave the belly at 030 and add the 010 to the stack, and then still make it a bit narrower and deeper?
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There is nothing wrong with stringing a hornbow with a stringer. Not a modern stringer but one that actually fits in the nocks, I cut a large lower string groove and a second one on the upper limb.
The step through method is much more likely to induce twist/instability IF done incorrectly and it's easy to do it incorrectly!
I would take anything Grozer says with a pinch of salt.
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just saying what he said to me on the phone mike- right or wrong- he voids his warranty if you use a stringer- period!
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i have one of his bows- and it is a really well made bow that is a blazer of a shooter. i think he knows something!
well to put it more aptly- he knows more than me!
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I would also think about extending the wedge next time and or add a little length in wedge that meeds the handle and limb to push the working limb a further toward tips. this may help in the stability vertically