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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Krasus on March 23, 2015, 10:45:00 PM
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Hey guys,
So a quick question with regards to fibre glass backed r/d longbow
I used a minwax polyurethane clear but noticed I could still scrap it off the glass with a finger nail. On this bow I'm doing right now.im thinking of just going to town on the glass with 000 steel wool and making it shine. Then doing a rub on rub off on the wood with a gun stock oil.
Will it affect the glass? Or is there something better I can be using? I have a full function paint booth with air sprays.
Any ideas or suggestions would be great!
You know what they say. 5th bows the charm. Lol maybe now I can learn to shoot one.
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I just switched from Minwax spar urethane to Krystal from Big Jim. I had to buy a new compressor, 3 filters, hoses and guns...I have only sprayed 2 bows with it, so far I really like it. If you have a spray booth and a gun with a 1.4mm tip you should be good to go. Thunderbird or Jims Buffalo Hide would be a step up from Krystal I believe.
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I've just got some Buffalo Hide finish and it's the business.
Spraying is the way to go if you already have a booth.
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X2 on the buffalo hide/thunderbird. I've had some issues with other finishes on bows that I've purchased from reputable bowyers. Some of them have now also switched to thunderbird. It's all I use on my glass builds. Been very happy.
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Thunderbird is all I've used on ANY bow for 10 years or so. Incredibly tough, relatively easy to work with, and looks great.
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Fullerplast...check Rich Lopez' site. It's what I'd use if I could spray.
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Fullerplast isn't as good as thunderbird..
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I used Fullerplast for years before I started with T-bird. I was fairly content with Fullerplast, it cures quicker, but I'd rank T-bird decidedly above it in the end... IMO. T-bird is tougher, more impervious to nicks, scratches, chipping, etc.
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Helmsman Spar Varnish!
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The issue with Fullerplast is it does not have the flexibility of Thunderbird or Buffalo hide, and can get the horizontal cracks over time. Also refinishing a bow that is done with Thunderbird is so simple. You never have to take it all off to spray over it again.
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I just did a sample with the helsman urathan. Looks horrible.
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Krystal and Thunderbird are great finishes. If you are going to build a lot of bows (no one builds only one) it might be worth the expensive of trying one of them. I don't think they will be any easier to apply than the Helsmans or similar type products they will however be more durable.
I would guess something is wrong if you can peel the finish off with your fingernail. Did you sand the glass prior to applying finish also it is a good idea to wipe it down with denatured alcohol or similar. You will have better luck with many light coats than few heavier coats. Humidity and temperature also have an affect on how finishes dry.
Before I began using Krystal I used True Oil on the riser and edges of the limbs and then would spray seveeral light coats of Helsmans over the entire bow and had great results. I wish you luck
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If you don't have a good setup to spray I'd suggest Tru oil. I use it on the riser and also a couple coats on the glass after fine sanding. All you need is a clean rag and a disposible glove.Finger rub it in ,after 5 to 6 coats it looks like glass. Takes about 4hrs between rubs. Very safe to use.
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Krause, not sure why the Spar Urethane is giving you problems. From my experience I found out 1) It doesn't dry over cocobolo or other oily woods. 2) don't spray it outside if humidity is high. 3) multiple thin coats are better than fewer thick coats. 4) takes arround 7 days to fully cure... I run a dehumidifier in my spray room and leave it on for 12-24 hours while bow hangs in spray room. Krystal is dry in 25 minutes.. T-bird or Buffalo Hide is what I will switch to when I build my new spray booth.
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Ya I don't know either. Even my buddy who is a ticketed painter can't figure it out.
Has any one ever tried waxing and buffing the fibre glass? I'm ok with finishing the wood how I want, it's just the glass that is vexing me.
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I sand new glass with 220 grit before spray finishing, some may use 150 or 180 grit. I used gloss minwax Spar urethane on a couple of bows, smooth as glass finish..but not good for a hunting bow. There are likely over 100,000 bows finished with Spar Urethane so I know it works on fiberglass. Could be a temperature problem, I run a ceramic heater and dehumidifier in my spray room when its under 70 degrees..above 75 degrees seems best, above 85 would be pretty good for finish but ya gotta be careful with sweating on the bow.I'm running the A/C unit in my shop today..
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Originally posted by Robertfishes:
Krause, not sure why the Spar Urethane is giving you problems. From my experience I found out 1) It doesn't dry over cocobolo or other oily woods. 2) don't spray it outside if humidity is high. 3) multiple thin coats are better than fewer thick coats. 4) takes arround 7 days to fully cure... I run a dehumidifier in my spray room and leave it on for 12-24 hours while bow hangs in spray room. Krystal is dry in 25 minutes.. T-bird or Buffalo Hide is what I will switch to when I build my new spray booth.
Spray booth not needed for Tbird there are Even though it makes it easier, There are many top Bowyers that don't have one yet. Just thoroughly sweep area you are spraying in after dust has settled, wet down floor and you are good to go.
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My booth is indoors and fully climate controlled. Is t bird only available on line?
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Originally posted by Krasus:
My booth is indoors and fully climate controlled. Is t bird only available on line?
We take phone orders as well 517-617-3658 I have sent you a PM
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Is the crystal stuff you guys are talking about the Crystal Sheen epoxy polyamer?