Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: bckskin2 on February 23, 2015, 05:53:00 PM
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Hi, I have a nice piece of Osage that is maybe 1/8 done, but I want to build a board bow to practice tillering etc so I do not turn that Osage into kindling. I have been getting advice on a strictly primitive board also. I am thinking of building a Poor Folks board bow including the dry wall tape and velcro. I would still like to do the raw hide or sinew backing some day. I am wavering on trying to improve on Sam's design such as different wood. Maple maybe and fiber glass instead of dry wall tape or should I stick with the program until I get at least one shooting bow? One thing no blue. It was my ex-mother-in-law's favorite color. Maybe a nice desert camo tan? Thanks,
Jerry
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Check this out.
http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000122
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Lots of bows built off of 4est trekker's build a long.
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Thanks guys I bookmarked this. He starts with a lot bigger board than Sam.
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here's another way http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,35312.0.html
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Thanks Bubby, you used hard maple and no backing. Is hard maple better than red oak assuming both have straight grain?
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Linen, burlap and silk make good board backings but straight grained stock is a must.
Chose the board wisely.
More on my site.
Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html
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I think I may try drawing a picture of what I want before I go to the lumber yard if I cannot get the pictures to print so I can show the man what I need |\\\\\\| end and ||||| face?
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Originally posted by George Tsoukalas:
Linen, burlap and silk make good board backings but straight grained stock is a must.
Chose the board wisely.
More on my site.
Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/index.html
Thanks Jawge, I would never have thought of burlap. Maybe wrap the handle with hemp twine to match the look. I hope to get to the lumber yard Fridayor Monday armed with pictures.
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There are 3 board cuts.
There's plain sawn where the end or but looks like this =. There's also rift sawn which looks like this //. For this look at the face and look
for the grain to run straight tip to tip...one end to the other ideally.
For a 50-55# bow 2 run outs per limb are ok.
For a backed bow, more run outs may work but no run outs are preferred.
The other board cut is 1/4 sawn (||). It has to be completely straight on the edge. No run outs.
Hope this helps.
Jawge
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Originally posted by George Tsoukalas:
There are 3 board cuts.
There's plain sawn where the end or but looks like this =. There's also rift sawn which looks like this //. For this look at the face and look
for the grain to run straight tip to tip...one end to the other ideally.
For a 50-55# bow 2 run outs per limb are ok.
For a backed bow, more run outs may work but no run outs are preferred.
The other board cut is 1/4 sawn (||). It has to be completely straight on the edge. No run outs.
Hope this helps.
Jawge
Jawge, When I go to the lumber yard should I look for the 1/4 saw, Rift, or plain? They will do custom cutting so they might provide any. I am looking at 35 to 40 lbs at 28"
Thanks, Jerry
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Here's a classic by Dean Torges that offers advice on selecting boards at the lumber yards.
http://www.stickbow.com/FEATURES/SELFBOWS/beginnings.CFM
And here's another from Mickey Lotz:
http://sticknstring.webs.com/ferretsboardbow.htm
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I prefer rift or plain.
Jawge
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John, that link from Dean is not for selfbows.
Jawge
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Mickey's directions are excellent as are Dean's.
But for a first timer I suggest a bend in the handle bow. 1.5 in out to mid limb for 50-55#.
1 3/8" for 45-50#.
No narrowing of the handle.
No glued on pieces.
Easier to build. Easier to tiller. JMO.
Back with linen, burlap or silk a good idea for the first few bows.
Jawge
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I got a riff sawed red that has pretty fair gain and should have at least two bows in it. The man at the lumber yard was very helpful. He also showed me some ash and hickory.
Jerry
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Can you post pics? "Pretty fair grain" is not exactly a glowing endorsement. Grain is everything on a red oak board bow.
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Yes, please post some photos, bckskin.
Good grain is vital.
Jawge
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I have to figure out how to do pictures. The board is 74 1/4" x 4 3/4" x 13/16 thick.
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Originally posted by George Tsoukalas:
Mickey's directions are excellent as are Dean's.
But for a first timer I suggest a bend in the handle bow. 1.5 in out to mid limb for 50-55#.
1 3/8" for 45-50#.
No narrowing of the handle.
No glued on pieces.
Easier to build. Easier to tiller. JMO.
Back with linen, burlap or silk a good idea for the first few bows.
Jawge
Jawge, would you suggest the build along labeled "Building a board bow" or the one just labeled "Board Bows"? Sorry to be a pain, but I am easily confused. 68" x 1 1/4 for a 30-35 lbs draw weight? I have the burlap, but can get linen easily enough.
Thanks for the help.
Jerry
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Yes, that would be the buildalong. Yes, 1.25 in should be fine. 68" was for a 28" draw. What is your draw?
Can you show us pictures of the grain?
Backing the stave is agood idea until you get some experience.
I'm not much on artificial backings (that is just my personal choice) which is why I suggest linen silk and burlap the real burlap which is jute.
Jawge
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Those 2 parts of my site you mentioned are all tied in together.
Jawge
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I have backed with brown paper grocery bag with good results on bows up.to 28#. In the "what did you do today" thread is an ongoing red oak pyramid that I'm working on. This one will be more in the 45 to 50 range with paper bag.
It's not a build along or even a how-to. It does Illustrate some of the mistakes you can make. :)
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Originally posted by George Tsoukalas:
Those 2 parts of my site you mentioned are all tied in together.
Jawge
One says to start from the center the other says 4". Would I start at the center line for a bend bow? I still have not figured out how to post pictures. Hopefully I can tomorrow. The wood is the best I could find without ordering thru the mail.
Jerry
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I'll have to check that. Thanks.
Measure 2 inches on either side of center for a 4 inch handle. Leave that area alone. Proceed as described. Jawge
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They both say the same thing. Ask questions if you don't understand.
After you remove wood from the side, as described, Measure down 3/8 inch at the nock and draw a line to the 4 inch handle. That is the belly taper roughly.
Jawge
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OK, I was confused. Sorry. I still having trouble with the picture. I can post on Facebook but not here. The wood looks worse every time I look at it. I am to the point I want to cut some wood and if comes out looking like a bow I will call it a victory. If it looks like a bow and will also fling an arrow I would be really happy.
Thanks for the help and patience.
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No problem; anytime.
Jawge
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You need to upload the pic to a photo site like photobucket. Failing that, send us a link to your facebook page. Somewhere there is a thread about posting pics here.
I found one: http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=75;t=000507
I used to look through the big box stores like Menards and Lowes all the time. I rarely, like maybe twice in my life, have found a red oak board that I would bother with. Menards is the worst by far. They are cheap but there is a reason for that.
But you have inspired me to take a lunch break at Home Depot today. I will post the results :)
Good Luck. Have fun. But be very careful with questionable wood.
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Good luck John. I bought from a lumber yard and it is still not great. The growth ring are too narrow and a couple of bad spots I can cut around. Next time I am taking my Optivisors and a good flash light with me. My 67 year old eyes are easy to fool under bad light.
Jerry
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I found an almost perfect board at HD a
month ago.
Jawge
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I check two HDs and two Lowes regularly and find a good oak board every now and then. I look for good maple boards but have yet to find one. We have some specialty hardwood stores in town and I'll be passing by them occasionally in the future. Would like to find some good hickory and white oak.
So far everyone I talk to in my are never heard of Eastern Red Cedar!
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Originally posted by John Scifres:
[QB] "Failing that, send us a link to your facebook page."
John, Would I get in trouble for posting a link to FB?
Jerry
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I am hoping to be able to work in the garage today and get a slat cut from that 4 1/2 board with my circular saw.
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I don't know, let's see :) Here's a pic of my brother's deer from one 10 minute period last year:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10805674_771907372846859_5149922125096224949_n.jpg?oh=3af2e701d2e51be76b00841ce2e4b7b6&oe=5572AAD9&__gda__=143482683 2_512d1c996fce38e2ba921f91aa50ddde (https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/10805674_771907372846859_5149922125096224949_n.jpg?oh=3af2e701d2e51be76b00841ce2e4b7b6&oe=5572AAD9&__gda__=1434826832_512d1c996fce38e2ba921f91aa50ddde)
Just open your image in Facebook. Right click on the image and "Copy Image URL". Come back here and right click on the Message box and then "Paste".
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https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=927483880616340&set=a.927483683949693.1073742092.100000642117006&type=3&src=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-xpf1%2 Ft31.0-8%2F11034472_927483880616340_1162251667744635948_o.jpg&smallsrc=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-xpf1%2Fv%2Ft1.0-9%2F10999525_927483880616340_116225 1667744635948_n.jpg%3Foh%3D4c9ddc1388bec05336c643b00bac78f6%26oe%3D55946ACC%26__gda__%3D1434146982_b12b614181b13fe9a8047d2cd70c977e&size=1152%2C864Nothing (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=927483880616340&set=a.927483683949693.1073742092.100000642117006&type=3&src=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-xpf1%2Ft31.0-8%2F11034472_927483880616340_1162251667744635948_o.jpg&smallsrc=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-xpf1%2Fv%2Ft1.0-9%2F10999525_927483880616340_1162251667744635948_n.jpg%3Foh%3D4c9ddc1388bec05336c643b00bac78f6%26oe%3D55946ACC%26__gda__%3D1434146982_b12b614181b13fe9a8047d2cd70c977e&size=1152%2C864Nothing) said Copy image ULR. This is as close as I got
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I think it worked. I got the 1 1/4 X 68 cut with my circular saw and I am getting it laid out.
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Now just do the same thing (copy Image URL) make sure you are in the Full Reply Form (click that below this box) and then click "Image". Right click on the line in the box that comes up and "Paste" the URL in that line. (https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/t31.0-8/11034472_927483880616340_1162251667744635948_o.jpg)
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Now THAT is a good board. ^^^
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Yep! That's good. I'd buy that for a buck
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I got a 1 1/4" section cut and started the lay out for the Jawge bend in the middle bow and have enough left for a Poor Folks bow.
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I recently made a bow and followed the poor folks design somewhat. I used a good piece of Red Oak I found at Lowes. I used brown paper grocery bag as my backing (Two layers and Wood Glue). You will get your tan color naturally/ ;-)
I just did a 3D tournament with it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7wH1h8ITvg