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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: joe nichols on October 20, 2014, 04:26:00 PM
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Ok, everything I've read tells me that this won't work but it is the wood I have. If nothing else it will be a wall hanger until I can get some decent wood.
Hickory back, mahogany core and thin hickory for the belly. I'm trying to make a short bow with some R/D. The handle will be the same.
This is only my second bow so I need practice before investing in some osage or something better.
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It might work out. From what I've read, the core doesn't do a lot of work.
Alternatively, you could always go with 3 lams of hickory.
Don't forget the pictures.
Dave.
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Go with a thicker belly lam in so that you have room to remove wood when you tiller.
Dave.
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Ah, good thought on the thicker belly. I will be putting up pics of my low buck build. I figured I could read forever but until I tried something I would never know for sure.
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Originally posted by joe nichols:
I figured I could read forever but until I tried something I would never know for sure.
Sounds familiar.
homebru
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You want the belly lam thick for the reason wood carver stated. Post pictures of the materials first, maybe we can help you out better.
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well, here is a pic in the middle of my clamping process. notice the secure table i'm working on. Yea, I should have done things a little differently but at this point, i'm kind of in with this one. I will figure something out. I will post more as I am getting things done.
(http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l47/eoj02/Mobile%20Uploads/9f818195-f1af-4ada-a754-67ea80a6fd53_zpsbe108aa2.jpg) (http://s93.photobucket.com/user/eoj02/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9f818195-f1af-4ada-a754-67ea80a6fd53_zpsbe108aa2.jpg.html)
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You need clamps every 2 inches. And you should pad the back and belly with something so the clamps don't indent the materials. Also alternate the clamp direction, meaning have one clamp facing one way, then the next clamp facing the opposite direction.
Note strip of walnut under the bow for padding. And 2" pieces of boo padding the back side.
Wrap plastic wrap around the bow to prevent a mess from glue running out.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/2014bow4.png) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/ROY-CHRIS/media/2014bow4.png.html)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/2014bow5.png) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/ROY-CHRIS/media/2014bow5.png.html)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/2014bow6.png) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/ROY-CHRIS/media/2014bow6.png.html)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/2014bow1.png) (http://s47.photobucket.com/user/ROY-CHRIS/media/2014bow1.png.html)
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I still had more clamps to go on but I didn't put anything on to avoid dents. Also noticed the plastic wrap but did not think about it last night. definitely noticed the mess this morning. I think i'll need to build an actual bench for this in the future. I'm going slowly, not investing much to make sure I stick with it. So far, it is quite interesting.
My first oak board build ended in me breaking a limb trying to string it up too soon. I am happy with my first completed one, so if this turns out even half the way I plan, I will be happy to invest more.
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Originally posted by joe nichols:
My first oak board build ended in me breaking a limb trying to string it up too soon. I am happy with my first completed one, so if this turns out even half the way I plan, I will be happy to invest more.
Make a tillering string that is the same length as the unstrung bow. Then you can string it and put it on the tree to study very small changes in draw. Mine has conventional loops on each end and is 70" long, but that's cause I build pretty much 70" to 66" bows. A more versatile tillering string has only one loop and allows you to tie it onto the other end of the bow to match any length.
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Ok, got it to floor tiller (well, belly tiller) and the nock overlays glued on. Shaping them today. The mahogany looks cool sandwiched between the hickory. Will add pics Monday on the work computer.