Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Zradix on October 14, 2014, 09:11:00 PM
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Hey guys,
I want to make a tri lam long bow in the 64-66" range.
I'd like the brace height to end up around 8"
I also want to draw the bow 28"
From what I've read...6" is about where you want to be normally...I'm not really sure why.
I can understand why you don't just put a shorter string on a bow to get it to 8"...really stresses the heck out of it.
The bow I'll be making is an r/d type.
The only way I can think of to get a 2" longer brace ht than normal is to deflex the riser an inch or so more than "normal" and to get the throat of the grip as close to the belly lam as possible.
To get the throat deeper I figure I can use a thick (1" or a touch less) power lam to add depth to the riser/grip in front of the belly lam rather than behind it.
I'm thinking this would add about 2" more brace than "normal"
I'm trying to do this to help the string clear clothes in the winter.
I know I'll be giving up some speed.
Is there anything else I can do?
Thanks :thumbsup:
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That's called a forward riser, go for it! other than that, just a shorter string. Higher brace is going to stress a bow more no matter what you do haha, should be fine though, my hybrids like a brace of about 7.75-8.25" (but they're glass, so you can pretty much strain it as much as you want haha).
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OMG.............
Here we go again...
:laughing: :laughing:
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Why would you want to predetermine your brace? Brace the bow where it tells you it wants to be braced, every bow glass or wood is gonna have its own sweet spot. The lower your brace the better performance your gonna get out of it too.
Are you slapping the heck out of your arm with the string and you want the higher brace to fix that?
Cory
PS I guess I should have scrolled down to finish reading you post I use a shoe lace or shock cord to keep the clothes out of the way. I'll shut the H#€£ up now.
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Theoretically you could deflex the handle and the limbs and get your high brace without stressing the bow. But it's going to be a slug flinging an arrow. I'm with Cory; I like the brace height as low as possible, 5 1/2" to 6" for best performance on my wooden bows. Lower than that gives me string slap.
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Reverse or forward handle bows tend to give me more clearance from sleeves, but recently I noticed I was plagued more than usual hitting my sleeve at 3-d shoots and realized that I had begun to cant my bow more than I used to. This was also affecting my shooting more noticeable on vertical targets like standing bears. Reducing my cant to a more vertical position seemed to help with the accuracy and sleeve issues.
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Thanks for the replies guys.
...cept you Roy...btw...ya got that yew core tri done yet?
I was just checking to see if I overlooked something.