Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: JGR1269 on August 08, 2014, 09:40:00 PM
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I decided to do a build-along of one of my 54" Hybrids. The riser will consist of Bocote with 15 layers of glass and phenolic. The limbs will be black glass with amber a-boo tapers and a piece of black coretuff between the tapers. I start with a nice block of Bocote that is 2"x2"x18".
My bows are built on a 1 3/4" form so I can cut 3/16" past center with a slightly offset riser. I square up the riser block and cut it down to 1 3/4"x1 3/4" and I'll use the pieces I cut off in the riser lay up.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/bow2_zpsae58f6b9.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/bow2_zpsae58f6b9.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
I marked it with my template and cut it out on the bandsaw.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/bow5_zps5bebbfeb.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/bow5_zps5bebbfeb.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
I attach it to my jig and sand the riser profile on the spindle sander with a rub collar.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/bow8_zpscb51feff.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/bow8_zpscb51feff.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
Then I check the fit on my form and check for gaps. A little extra time building an accurate jig makes this job a lot quicker. (http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/bow9_zps20a6013f.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/bow9_zps20a6013f.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
Tomorrow I'll get my fiberglass and phenolic cut and ready for the riser glue up.
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Jon, I am really looking forward to your build along. You do some beautiful work form what you have showed so far. I hope all is well in your family and thanks again in advance for the build along.
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Thanks for the kind words.
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Looking good- I'll be watching this one!
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Looking good Jon! Ready to see some more
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I've been admiring your short bows. Glad to see one made by you step by step. Thanks!
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Work till noon today and a little yard work before I can get back on it.
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I decided to eliminate the 1/4" piece of phenolic and go with 4 layers of glass instead. I now have a total of 20 layers of glass and wood strips to glue up along with the riser. Gotta get the lawn mowed so maybe I'll get it glued up later.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/100_0990_zps4f364747.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/100_0990_zps4f364747.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
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Thanks for posting this , looking forward to following progress.
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I'am in
Looking forward to this.
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Hurry up and get your yard mowed!!! :D
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Sorry Chris, I don't work as fast as you do. Since the pieces of glass are all random lengths I mark center on each one.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build2001_zpsd7054413.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build2001_zpsd7054413.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
Then I put a piece of tape on my bench with a reference mark and stack them all in order.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build2002_zps7167e8ee.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build2002_zps7167e8ee.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
After clamping them I mark center and drill a whole through all pieces.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build2004_zps98b9335c.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build2004_zps98b9335c.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build2005_zpsd04fb2d0.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build2005_zpsd04fb2d0.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
I insert a stainless alignment pin to keep all these pieces aligned during glue up.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build2007_zps92372a60.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build2007_zps92372a60.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
Next I clamp one of the pieces already drilled to the riser as a reference to drill a shallow hole for the pin. I mark the riser block and off to the drill press. This pin will get cut off flush and make glue up much easier. The black glass will make it invisible after completion.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build2008_zpsf54f48df.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build2008_zpsf54f48df.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
I decided to leave out one of the 1/4" Bocote strips after I had already taken this picture.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build2009_zps5bca8f57.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build2009_zps5bca8f57.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
It's pretty much ready now for glue up.
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I vacuum 0ff all the pieces and mix up my epoxy.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build001_zps2740aeb3.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build001_zps2740aeb3.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
I drilled a hole in a scrap board to insert my stainless alignment pin. As I apply the epoxy I can stack them in order on the pin.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build002_zps607ca88e.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build002_zps607ca88e.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build003_zpse275694d.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build003_zpse275694d.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build004_zpsf5a7fa25.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build004_zpsf5a7fa25.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
I insert the stack of lams with the alignment pin into the hole in the riser and it's ready to put into the form and clamp.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build007_zps92d451c6.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build007_zps92d451c6.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
Here's a shot of the clamp I built for clamping my riser to the form.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build006_zps73d784f2.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build006_zps73d784f2.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
I use a bar clamp to squeeze the stack down then secure it in place with some zip ties and remove the bar clamp.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build008_zpse3f0bbe5.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build008_zpse3f0bbe5.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
I bolt on my homemade clamp and a piece of 1/4" steel as a pressure strip. I remove the zip ties and begin cranking down the clamp making sure it's against the stops on the back side of the form.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build009_zpse136c298.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build009_zpse136c298.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
Once I'm satisfied with the alignment I put it in my 16 year old oven for a four hour cook.
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Looking forward to this one. Its going to be a nice one.
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Originally posted by bjansen:
Looking forward to this one. Its going to be a nice one.
X 2
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X 3
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Out of the form and off to the spindle sander. I clean up and square the edges then clamp a fence on the get it true. I don't have any fancy tools and this is by far the most versatile piece of equipment I have used.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build3003_zps71779509.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build3003_zps71779509.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build3002_zpsa61ba5a6.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build3002_zpsa61ba5a6.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
I set it back on the form with a light on the back side and check for gaps. Looks good so now I can mark and cut the belly curves.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build3006_zps43356767.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build3006_zps43356767.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
A buddy just text and wants to go shoot some 3D's. Back at it later
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I clamp my riser template to the riser block and mark my belly curves and fadeouts.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build4001_zpseb1a607b.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build4001_zpseb1a607b.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build4002_zpsd83a3e63.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build4002_zpsd83a3e63.jpg)[/url] [/IMG]
Off to the bandsaw to cut the curves. I cut the wood portion with a good blade then switch to an old blade to cut the glass portion.
(http:// [url=http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build4004_zps12724900.jpg.html] [img]http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build4004_zps12724900.jpg)[/url] [/IMG] (http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build4006_zpsf03af6d7.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build4006_zpsf03af6d7.jpg.html)
A few minutes on the spindle sander has everything square with a smooth curve.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build4007_zps5134bcdc.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build4007_zps5134bcdc.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build4008_zps18fff67c.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build4008_zps18fff67c.jpg.html)
The riser is ready for glue up so now I'll get my lams and glass marked, cut and ready to go.
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looking great
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I attached these stops to each end of my form and I cut all the glass and lams to fit precisely between so they cannot slide. The lams, glass and aluminum pressure strip all slip under the metal piece on top of the stop.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5016_zps993372f0.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5016_zps993372f0.jpg.html)
I slide one end of the back glass against the top limb stop and follow the curve to the bottom limb stop and mark it for cutting.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5017_zps948e85bf.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5017_zps948e85bf.jpg.html)
I clamp a guide to the table on the disc sander and bevel the ends of the back tapers so I can glue them together for a less visible glue joint
. (http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5004_zps70b99a4a.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5004_zps70b99a4a.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5005_zps93628b74.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5005_zps93628b74.jpg.html)
I clamp one of the tapers to the bench with a piece of wax paper under the glue joint.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5007_zps449849db.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5007_zps449849db.jpg.html)
A little TBII on the joint then slide the other taper into position until they match up perfectly. I clamp the other taper to the bench so it won't move then fold the wax paper over the top of the tapers and clamp a block of wood over the joint to cure overnight.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5008_zps9a371972.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5008_zps9a371972.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5009_zps24406fd6.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5009_zps24406fd6.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5010_zpsd2aa491d.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5010_zpsd2aa491d.jpg.html)
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Tomorrow when the back taper joint has cured I'll use my back glass as a template and cut the back tapers to fit between the stops on my form.
In the meantime I slide the belly tapers up to the stops. With the riser on the form and centered I can bend the tapers to follow the curves up the belly and mark them for cutting. I put them in backwards with the butt end against the stop so the mark is on the tip end of the taper. It would be pretty easy to mess up here and cut the butt end off the taper.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5012_zpsb3be00e6.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5012_zpsb3be00e6.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5011_zpsa1fb5159.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5011_zpsa1fb5159.jpg.html)
I use the top and bottom belly tapers to mark the length for the black CoreTuff and the belly glass.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5013_zps81060423.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5013_zps81060423.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5014_zps2467b0f4.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5014_zps2467b0f4.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build5015_zps67768061.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build5015_zps67768061.jpg.html)
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When I started adding the CoreTuff to my limbs I wanted to see the color strip go through the riser as well as up the belly ramps. To accomplish this I added a layer of CoreTuff to the back of the riser when building it. This is the piece that becomes the tip of the fadeouts and blends right in with the CoreTuff that runs up the belly ramps. You can see it at the ends of the riser in this picture.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build4008_zps18fff67c.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build4008_zps18fff67c.jpg.html)
If you look closely you can see the finished product on this bow.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/iphone14880_zpsacc08701.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/iphone14880_zpsacc08701.jpg.html)
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Awesome
I like the anti-skid stops.
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that's a nice one, zebra and ebony? like the stops as well and the core tuff running to the fades. Food for thought! Which is precisely what I like about this site, so much information and great ideas from people who don't mind sharing.
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This is awesome!
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I like the stops- good idea. The core tuff in the riser does look good too.
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That bow is Zebra with black, red and white phenolic/glass.
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It's looking good! Stops are a great idea!
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Ok, I only had an hour to work on it tonight so it doesn't seem like I got much accomplished. I sanded the glue joint on the back tapers with some 36 grit on a block and cut it to fit between the stops on the form.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6002_zps61a160af.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6002_zps61a160af.jpg.html)
I wiped the faces of the glass down with alcohol and covered them with a quality masking tape. I use 3M Blue Tape and have had good results.
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(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6003_zps10f8837b.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6003_zps10f8837b.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6005_zpsaf4911aa.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6005_zpsaf4911aa.jpg.html)
Since they are slightly different in length I mark the top and bottom belly glass pieces and put them aside.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6006_zps9261ee75.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6006_zps9261ee75.jpg.html)
Another advantage to having the stops on my form is that I can lay out all the marks on the back glass prior to glue up and I know it's not going to slide out of position during air up. I mark center with a square.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6007_zps860ce6c8.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6007_zps860ce6c8.jpg.html)
Then I mark the shelf at 1 1/8" above center.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6008_zps7471b1eb.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6008_zps7471b1eb.jpg.html)
I mark the sight window 3 1/2" above the shelf.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6009_zpsfcc5fde4.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6009_zpsfcc5fde4.jpg.html)
I mark center of the width.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6010_zps82590057.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6010_zps82590057.jpg.html)
I clamp a straight edge to mark center the full length of the glass.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6011_zps0b0f4501.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6011_zps0b0f4501.jpg.html)
I mark the sight window at 5/32" past center so I can take the final 1/32" off when I radius the window and the shelf.
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(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6013_zps88dac207.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6013_zps88dac207.jpg.html)
I use the radius on my riser template to mark the shape of the sight window.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6014_zpsbf0f8a59.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6014_zpsbf0f8a59.jpg.html)
I use a 16" riser so I mark the fadeouts at 8" each way from center then I mark them 1 1/4" wide.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6015_zpsf32409ea.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6015_zpsf32409ea.jpg.html)
I mark the tips at 5/8" so I have some wiggle room when I take the limbs down to width.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6016_zps13f87036.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6016_zps13f87036.jpg.html)
I connect the marks from the tip to the center of the bow on both ends on the shelf side of the bow.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6017_zps0877b12c.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6017_zps0877b12c.jpg.html)
I connect the marks on the other side from the tips to the fadeouts. Since my riser is offset on this side I finish the line with masking tape to get the curve of the offset.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build6020_zpse17bffa4.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build6020_zpse17bffa4.jpg.html)
My plan is to glue up tomorrow after work.
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Genius! Love the idea of laying out before glue up, surprised it hasn't come up before! Great build along, thanks for sharing.
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Besides the visual effect of the Bow Tuff do you think it also increases performance ? Have you eventually compared bows with and without it ?
__________
Andy
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I haven't compared to see if there is a difference. Chris Hachworth lays his glass out the same as I do, so Chris, we are geniuses!
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Yeah Chris, I spelled your name wrong. It's too early in the morning. The main reason I use the CoreTuff is to reduce the thickness of my tapers so they bend easier up the belly ramps during glue up. Plus I like the looks of them.
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I'm not sure about the genius part but don't worry about misspelling my name, it's been done before JOHN! :laughing:
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Wow! You Texans sure are uptight about your name being misspelled.
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:laughing:
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Well, I had plans of getting it glued up tonight until I came home from work to a power outage. It's supposed to be off until 8pm so looks like it'll happen tomorrow night.
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Enjoying the post ,thanks.
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Thank you Jon. So many tips and tricks I never thought of :notworthy:
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No problem guys. I think everyone should do a build along and share their secrets. We all benefit from others knowledge.
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The power came back on but it was too late to glue up tonight so I prepped my bench with some freezer paper and laid out my glass and lams for glue up. I put a fresh layer of tape on the aluminum pressure strips and they're ready to go.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build7004_zpsf95fcbc1.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build7004_zpsf95fcbc1.jpg.html)
I never really cared for the tape down method so I drilled holes through my form to run zip ties through for holding everything down until the air hose is inflated. I'll show how I do this during glue up.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build7002_zps00a1e0d3.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build7002_zps00a1e0d3.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build7003_zpsc258f7ba.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build7003_zpsc258f7ba.jpg.html)
Hopefully at this time tomorrow I'll have a bow in the oven curing.
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I got home from work tonight and turned the oven on so it would be up to temp when I finished the glue up. I mixed up the Smooth-On and put it in the oven to warm up while I put a layer of plastic wrap on the form.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8002_zpsf299a539.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8002_zpsf299a539.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8001_zps713c8273.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8001_zps713c8273.jpg.html)
I mixed up the Smooth-On and it's time to start spreading.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8003_zpsedd3895c.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8003_zpsedd3895c.jpg.html)
Once the back glass and taper are covered I stack them and place them on the form. I glue up the back and belly ramps on the riser and place it in position on the form. Now I glue up the top and bottom belly glass, taper and CoreTuff and stack them on the bench.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8004_zpse9e3dcce.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8004_zpse9e3dcce.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8005_zpsd69eea3e.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8005_zpsd69eea3e.jpg.html)
I stack the belly lams on the back lams on the form and slide the ends of the limbs under the metal strip and up tight to the stop.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8006_zpsbcf4b0b0.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8006_zpsbcf4b0b0.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8007_zps8134c470.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8007_zps8134c470.jpg.html)
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Nice build along!
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Next I clamp the riser into position making sure my center marks are lined up and it is up against the side stops on the back side of the form.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8008_zpsc02d8c45.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8008_zpsc02d8c45.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8009_zps3d58ea00.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8009_zps3d58ea00.jpg.html)
I put another layer of plastic wrap over the lams and slide the aluminum pressure strips under the metal strip on top of the lams and against the stops.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8010_zps3cc821ba.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8010_zps3cc821ba.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8011_zps344a094f.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8011_zps344a094f.jpg.html)
Now I can start running the zip ties through the holes in the form and over the pressure strip. I pull them down as tight as possible working from the tips towards the riser.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8012_zpsd292efd4.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8012_zpsd292efd4.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8013_zps21c51606.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8013_zps21c51606.jpg.html)
I check the riser again to make sure it's still centered and against the side stops on the back side of the form. (http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8014_zpsdca26f2a.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8014_zpsdca26f2a.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8015_zps0114387c.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8015_zps0114387c.jpg.html)
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I remove the clamp and allow the zip ties to hold everything in position.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8016_zps70afa67a.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8016_zps70afa67a.jpg.html)
I lay the air hose on top of the pressure strips and attach the upper half of the form to the lower part.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8017_zps30a2c4ab.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8017_zps30a2c4ab.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8018_zps19e39e86.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8018_zps19e39e86.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8019_zpsd901d25b.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8019_zpsd901d25b.jpg.html)
I inflate the hose to roughly 20 psi, check that everything is aligned and wait a few minutes before inflating it to 70 psi.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8020_zpsca031546.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8020_zpsca031546.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8021_zps6539443c.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8021_zps6539443c.jpg.html)
I check that everything is good and place the form in the oven for four hours.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build8022_zpsd9bb8e47.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build8022_zpsd9bb8e47.jpg.html)
Tomorrow after work I'll pull it out of the form and see if I did everything right.
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:clapper:
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Very cool build along!
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Very nice, at what point did you pull the zip ties out? after you got to 70 psi? I really like this idea tape is a pain.
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I don't pull them out. There's no need to because they are on top of the pressure strip.
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My pressure strip is .080 thick aluminum so there is no issue of them putting marks in the limbs from the pressure on them.
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Still looking great!
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Can't wait to see what it's going to look like
:notworthy:
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Using lighter gauge pressure strips I had the ties leave marks in the glass even though I cut the ties out once I get the air pressure up to about 20 psi. I might have to go with heavier pressure strips like you have done.
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terrific build along too by the way!
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Lookin good Jon!!
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Fresh out of the form.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build9001_zps0912f3fe.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build9001_zps0912f3fe.jpg.html)
It looks good and straight with no twist.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build9002_zpsb596281a.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build9002_zpsb596281a.jpg.html)
I measure 28" each way from center and mark the overall length. I'll reduce this slightly when I do the tips.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build9003_zps819da1c2.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build9003_zps819da1c2.jpg.html)
I measure 1 5/8" from the back glass to the throat of the grip.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build9004_zpsad276c41.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build9004_zpsad276c41.jpg.html)
I use my old recurve grip template to mark the curved shelf.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build9005_zps267984cd.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build9005_zps267984cd.jpg.html)
Now it's off to the drill press. I clamp the riser in the vise and make sure it's level both ways.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build9006_zps14feefd0.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build9006_zps14feefd0.jpg.html)
Using a brad point bit I drill a 3/8" hole all the way through the belly glass and this will be where my shelf meets the sight window as well as the high point of the shelf.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build9007_zps80c703c3.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build9007_zps80c703c3.jpg.html)
Next, with a Forstner bit, I'll drill a 1 5/8" hole through for the throat of the grip.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build9009_zpsf3fa9e4a.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build9009_zpsf3fa9e4a.jpg.html)
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(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build9010_zps8714d849.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build9010_zps8714d849.jpg.html)
Now I can make the cuts for the shelf, sight window and grip profile.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build9011_zps98c42c1b.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build9011_zps98c42c1b.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build9012_zps13646212.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build9012_zps13646212.jpg.html)
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Tomorrow I'll get the limbs cut down to rough width, string it up and check tiller. I'm shooting for 48-51 pounds at 27" with an even tiller for my three fingers under release.
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:clapper:
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Drilling a hole across the shelf is genius.
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Wow thinking outside the box really does the job! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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Im really liking this post and want to do
this some day. Eric
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This is exactly why build alongs are so great. New techniques(especially for some of us)keep showing up. I love the idea of drilling into the raw blank.
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I had some other things going on today so I didn't get as much done as I would have liked. I did get the tip overlays glued up and curing in the oven. I went with the same color combination as the glass in the riser. There are 8 layers total with a top layer of Bocote.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/100_1101_zps9f9ccae0.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/100_1101_zps9f9ccae0.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/100_1102_zpse4bcaf8c.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/100_1102_zpse4bcaf8c.jpg.html)
Ok, here's where I can hear all the gasps and imagine the looks on some faces. I cut the excess material off the edges of the limbs with my DeWalt cordless circular saw. Yep, you heard me correctly, a circular saw. Surprisingly it does a great job if you are good with one. I stay about 1/32" away from my line so later I can take it the rest of the way down on the belt sander and a long sanding block.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/100_1104_zpsc0b80c51.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/100_1104_zpsc0b80c51.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/100_1105_zps77310d38.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/100_1105_zps77310d38.jpg.html)
The circular saw does make a mess of the tape edges so I run a new piece of regular masking tape on the lines and this will be my guide. The contrasting colors makes it easier to follow the edge versus a thin black pen line on blue tape.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/100_1106_zps85f235d4.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/100_1106_zps85f235d4.jpg.html)
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Someone had asked about stack thickness at the fades earlier in this build. I went with a .310 total stack at the butts. So with a 16" riser the total stack at the fades should be approximately .294. My current bow is 54", 51#@27" with a total stack of .311. However, there is no CoreTuff in the stack on that bow so I'm curious to see where this bow comes in for weight with the CoreTuff.
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I use a 4-1/2" hand grinder with 36 grit to get the excess material off.
I have had one in my hand long enough, it's amazing what you can do with it.
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I made 2 riser's 1/4" past center for center shot
so I'am curious how you remove excess material
plenty of pictures please. :)
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Great build along Jon! I like to use a table saw to cut out my limbs, don't think I would be quite steady enough to use a circular saw:)
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I use a 4'' grinder fitted with a diamond blade similar to one used on masonry to cut the limbs to line and then a 36 grit on rubber backed disc in grinder to go close to lines. All over in few minutes.
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Must be nice to have a table saw Chris. You pros have all the toys.
Here's a good shot of the offset in the riser on the thumb side of the grip.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build11001_zps670d6ba8.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build11001_zps670d6ba8.jpg.html)
Here's my tip overlay block out of the clamps and ready to grind the angle on.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build11004_zpsf9dcf4f4.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build11004_zpsf9dcf4f4.jpg.html)
A little work on the disc sander and it's ready to be cut in half to make two pieces for the tips.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build11010_zpsef48a2a6.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build11010_zpsef48a2a6.jpg.html)
I take the bulk of the excess off on the disc sander then finish it to the line with the belt sander.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build11006_zpsca75cf82.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build11006_zpsca75cf82.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build11007_zpsd38253de.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build11007_zpsd38253de.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build11008_zps9308c614.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build11008_zps9308c614.jpg.html)
Now I can peel the masking tape off and go over it with a block and some 80 grit paper.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build11009_zps1d083468.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build11009_zps1d083468.jpg.html)
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I measure 27" each way from center and mark where the string nocks will be.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build12001_zpsa592e0c7.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build12001_zpsa592e0c7.jpg.html)
I put a piece of masking tape across the limb roughly 3/32" from the actual line towards the center of the bow. This will be my guide to keep the grooves the same on both sides.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build12002_zps7b48afc1.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build12002_zps7b48afc1.jpg.html)
Now I clamp the limb to the workbench and file the string grooves on each side at 90 degrees to the limb until the file is flush with the limb edge.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build12003_zpscfd42514.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build12003_zpscfd42514.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build12004_zps84010634.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build12004_zps84010634.jpg.html)
Ok, I know most builders file a 45 degree groove when they do this but I got to thinking about this a while back. What I came up with is this.
If the groove is filed at 45 degrees at your measured nock to nock length mark before your tip overlays are on then when you extend the groove up and over the overlays after they are on then you've extended the NTN length by as much as 1/2" on each end. The reason this occurred to me was I had several strings that were too short so I had to order longer strings. Does this make sense to anyone else?
Anyway. I round the groove edges so they aren't sharp and as a precaution I put a piece of masking tape over the groove and work it in with the file to protect the tillering string.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build12005_zpsfb6666f7.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build12005_zpsfb6666f7.jpg.html)
Here it is strung up for the first time.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build12006_zps0f8f04ea.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build12006_zps0f8f04ea.jpg.html)
There is no limb twist and the tiller is 1/8" positive. It's hard to read but they measure 5 1/2" and 5 3/8".
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build12007_zps4fe16920.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build12007_zps4fe16920.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build12008_zps04d6c8ed.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build12008_zps04d6c8ed.jpg.html)
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I had to unstring it and add a few twists to get my desired brace height before checking weight. Here is a full draw shot drawn to 27".
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build12010_zps9add02a7.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build12010_zps9add02a7.jpg.html)
Since the limbs are so straight and true I am very happy with where I am for weight right now. If I were to have much tillering or straightening to do I would probably come in a little light on poundage. By the time I get the limb edges rounded and smoothed I hope to be in the 48 pound range.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build12009_zps3dc24c2e.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build12009_zps3dc24c2e.jpg.html)
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Enjoying the post !
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it's looking terrific, think it will fling an arrow1.Re the nock marks , I measure to length and then step back towards the riser 1/4'' for the very reason you mentioned, regarding the height of overlays adding to length.
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It finally dried up enough around here to get the lawn mowed so I didn't get much accomplished on the bow tonight.
I did get the sight window and shelf cut out on the bandsaw.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build13001_zpsb4799870.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build13001_zpsb4799870.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build13002_zps0622babf.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build13002_zps0622babf.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build13003_zpsa8fe6a05.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build13003_zpsa8fe6a05.jpg.html)
Then I marked the crown on the shelf and the radius for the back and belly of the sight window.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build13005_zps661c4ab3.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build13005_zps661c4ab3.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build13006_zps7f8fcd2b.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build13006_zps7f8fcd2b.jpg.html)
Tomorrow night I'll get on it with a rasp and file to remove the bulk of the excess. Then I can finish it up on the spindle sander.
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great post .
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I removed the majority of the back and belly material with a coarse file.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build14004_zps6686be92.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build14004_zps6686be92.jpg.html)
Then I go to work on the spindle sander with the 1/2" drum.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build14001_zpseaf3fb45.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build14001_zpseaf3fb45.jpg.html)
I work the radius on the back and belly of the sight window to the marks I made earlier.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build14002_zpsed9ae1cb.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build14002_zpsed9ae1cb.jpg.html)
I get the radius close to where I want it then I'll finish it up by hand with files and sandpaper.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build14006_zps08de4b6f.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build14006_zps08de4b6f.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build14007_zps2ba8a661.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build14007_zps2ba8a661.jpg.html)
Tomorrow night I'll work the shelf area flat with this coarse bit that matches the transition where the sight window meets the shelf.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build14005_zps0e620a76.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build14005_zps0e620a76.jpg.html)
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looks great.
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This is a great build-along. Jon, where did you pick up that burr grinder bit? I haven't had any luck finding one..
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My Dad was in the auto body business for 45 years and I'm pretty sure I borrowed that from him about 16 years ago.
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Beach, I have seen them at Lowes form time to time , also in cylinder and cone shaped.
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Here it is with the shelf finished up on the drill press with a coarse bit. I like to leave that little trough in the transition where the sight window and shelf meet. When the bow is finished and I put the strike plate and shelf pad on it will leave a nice area for the fletching to clear the sight window.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build16001_zpsc8f8444b.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build16001_zpsc8f8444b.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build16003_zpsfef3164c.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build16003_zpsfef3164c.jpg.html)
Now I clamp on my old recurve riser template and use some of the curves as a template.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build16005_zpscb107343.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build16005_zpscb107343.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build16006_zpsc98a515a.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build16006_zpsc98a515a.jpg.html)
Before I head to the bandsaw I use my grip template to mark the grip cut.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build16008_zps7706f2e8.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build16008_zps7706f2e8.jpg.html)
I also remark the tips 1" past the grooves so I can cut off the excess.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build16007_zps3f0ad564.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build16007_zps3f0ad564.jpg.html)
Time to make the cuts.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build16009_zps68a0c0be.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build16009_zps68a0c0be.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build16010_zpse8fc3857.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build16010_zpse8fc3857.jpg.html)
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Before I quit for the night I peel the blue tape back and remark the tips for the overlays. I rough up the glass with some 36 grit on a block and wipe the area clean with some alcohol.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build16013_zps923cf489.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build16013_zps923cf489.jpg.html)
I cut my tip overlay block in half and go over the back side with 36 grit and alcohol.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build16014_zpsde5c8123.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build16014_zpsde5c8123.jpg.html)
Now I apply some epoxy and clamp the overlays in position. Before I'm done I remove the tape and wipe the excess epoxy off the glass.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build16015_zps9a00d3b3.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build16015_zps9a00d3b3.jpg.html)
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Looking good! :thumbsup:
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Great build along. Drilling that hole for the shelf is genious.... I always learn a new technique or trick each time I see a build along
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Thanks for taking the time to post this Jon. I love the hole for the shelf idea too. Also, building the tip overlays out of a single piece and then cutting it in half is a great idea. Good stuff.
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Great job. Really appreciate the time and effort you put into this build along. Saw a few things I'm going to try on my next one.
__________
Andy
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Really enjoying this thread!
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Thanks for posting.
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Bear with me guys. I don't get a lot of time to work on it.
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Take all the time you need as long as you hurry up.
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Never worked with glass or even made a laminated bow of any kind, but I am thoroughly enjoying this build along. Thanks for sharing.
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Since my tiller is good and my limbs are straight, I can taper my limbs a little more from about 1" beyond the fades to the tips.
I retaped the limbs, marked the width and ran a straight edge from the fades to the marks at the tips and left a line to follow.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117004_zpscde376f0.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117004_zpscde376f0.jpg.html)
I take the material off on the disc/belt sander.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117005_zps8cd0bf98.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117005_zps8cd0bf98.jpg.html)
Now I clamp the bow to the bench and run a block with 80 grit on the limb edge to take out any high spots.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117007_zps6963f088.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117007_zps6963f088.jpg.html)
It's time to file the grooves through the tip overlays. I mark it out with tape so I have a good guide to keep them the same from side to side.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117008_zpsd91c84aa.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117008_zpsd91c84aa.jpg.html)
I file just deep enough so the top edge of the file is flush with the limb edge.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117010_zpsfd108740.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117010_zpsfd108740.jpg.html)
Now I connect the sides with tape as a guide.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117011_zps3b1a32c2.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117011_zps3b1a32c2.jpg.html)
I file all the way through the top layer of Bocote
until I hear the file hit the first glass layer.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117012_zpsf452cf5c.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117012_zpsf452cf5c.jpg.html)
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I measure down 3/8" from the straight groove and put a mark.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117014_zps838766bb.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117014_zps838766bb.jpg.html)
I apply a piece of tape as a guide.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117015_zpsd7a9f714.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117015_zpsd7a9f714.jpg.html)
Again, I file to the same depth as before.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117016_zpse1ce539d.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117016_zpse1ce539d.jpg.html)
Using a rotary file I remove the center section.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117017_zpsaa10a36f.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117017_zpsaa10a36f.jpg.html)
Then with a square file I level it out.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build117018_zpsb2244421.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build117018_zpsb2244421.jpg.html)
They're roughed in for now and I'll finish them up when I shape the tips.
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Great stuff!
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Good stuff, Jon. Keep it coming!!
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Excellent way to do the tips!
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I worked on my tip overlays for a couple hours this afternoon. I pretty much have them where I want them other than a little final tweaking.
I marked out the rough shape by tracing the edge of a roll of masking tape to get the curves.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build18002_zps5f8f3389.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build18002_zps5f8f3389.jpg.html)
Then I remove the material on the spindle sander.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build18003_zpsba26e3b8.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build18003_zpsba26e3b8.jpg.html)
I put a piece of 1" aluminum tape on the limb at the base of the overlay to protect the glass. After some filing, sanding and shaping I end up with it roughed in.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build18006_zps59ef9a04.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build18006_zps59ef9a04.jpg.html)
Then I go to work on the belly side of the tip where I file another groove track for the string to lay in. This will give the end loop a consistent place to lay at brace. Here you can see it on the left side of the string groove.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build18007_zpsbccac0fa.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build18007_zpsbccac0fa.jpg.html)
I do the same on the right side and rough in the rest of the belly side of the tip.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build18009_zps33e949b4.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build18009_zps33e949b4.jpg.html)
I may need to do a little finish work to make it perfect but I'll do that upon final sanding.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build18010_zpsfd6b7f29.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build18010_zpsfd6b7f29.jpg.html)
Tomorrow I'll go the work on the spindle sander and get the grip area shaped.
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awesome work!
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thanks for posting , it is looking awesome . I really like the tips.
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I went to work this morning on shaping the grip and blending the handle into the fadeout area. I did everything on the oscillating spindle sander with a 2" drum and some 50 grit sanding sleeves. When I first started using this sander I went through the 80 grit 4 1/2" sleeve that came with it pretty fast. So, I came up with the idea of using three 2" x 1 1/2" sleeves that I could stack instead of one 4 1/2" sleeve. This way I can rotate them around when they start to wear and utilize the full face of the sleeve. It has worked great and I have done several bows with these 3 sleeves.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19002_zps7e51a335.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19002_zps7e51a335.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19001_zpsdb416b4a.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19001_zpsdb416b4a.jpg.html)
I start out by matching the throat area up to the 2" drum. Remember, I started with a 1 5/8" hole that I bored with a Forstner bit.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19003_zps642b741f.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19003_zps642b741f.jpg.html)
I also took some material off the heel of the grip since I cut it big to start with.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19004_zpscf08533b.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19004_zpscf08533b.jpg.html)
Now I start taking the width down in the throat area on both sides of the grip.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19005_zps31622119.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19005_zps31622119.jpg.html)
Here's a shot of the shelf edge after I get the rough shape I want.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19006_zps83f6c918.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19006_zps83f6c918.jpg.html)
After some work I have the whole grip and the palm swell where it feels perfect for my hand.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19007_zps2162ce62.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19007_zps2162ce62.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19008_zps57f251a7.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19008_zps57f251a7.jpg.html)
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Now I'll go to work on blending the transition from the grip area to the limbs. I lay it out with masking tape and start sanding.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19009_zpsa553625d.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19009_zpsa553625d.jpg.html)
I rough it in close and will finish it up with some 80 grit on a block before final sanding.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19010_zps96f0c48c.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19010_zps96f0c48c.jpg.html)
I have to do a little detail work on the belly side where the limb blends into the heel of the grip.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19011_zps72c531dd.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19011_zps72c531dd.jpg.html)
I do the same thing on the thumb side of the riser and blend the limbs into the offset in the handle.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19012_zpsfa54ec46.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19012_zpsfa54ec46.jpg.html)
I'm pretty much done with roughing in and now it's ready to be hit with a sanding block and lots of hand work.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19016_zpsa9c5efb8.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19016_zpsa9c5efb8.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19015_zpsc59c2573.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19015_zpsc59c2573.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19014_zpsbbe30bf6.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19014_zpsbbe30bf6.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build19013_zps842873d9.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build19013_zps842873d9.jpg.html)
Maybe later today I can get back on it and get the limb edges rounded. I don't want to take much off so I can keep the poundage close to where it's at right now. This is going to be one of my hunting bows for this season so I have something special planned for the finish on it. I've never tried it before but if it works out the way I plan, it will definitely change the way I put a finish on my bows. Stay tuned...
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Tuned in
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:clapper: I look forward to this post every day. Thanks.
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Excellent build along. Great lookin bow to I really like the limb tips.
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Awesome job I'm so glad you're taking the time to do this post .Thanks .Joe
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I peeled all the tape off the limbs and scaled it again prior to sanding the limb edges and final sanding. I'm curious to see how much I lose after sanding.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build20002_zps0dbc1073.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build20002_zps0dbc1073.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build20001_zpsff22a886.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build20001_zpsff22a886.jpg.html)
I went over it with some 80 grit on a rubber block and hand sanded all the sander marks out. Tomorrow night I'll go over it again with some 180 grit and sand the limb faces with 320 grit then I will be ready to seal up the wood with Deft.
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Show us that Deft wood sealer :confused:
:)
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Looking good Jon!
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Great Build-Along
Alot of useful stuff!
Thanks for sharing!
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Ok, all sanded with 320 then a Scotchbrite pad on the glass. I wipe it down with a damp lint-free shop towel and let it dry.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build21001_zpsb8149779.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build21001_zpsb8149779.jpg.html)
Here you go Mark, a shot of the Deft. After a wipe down with a tack cloth I sprayed 4 coats on the riser and limb edges then let it sit for 15 minutes or so. After it was dry I sprayed another wet coat on the whole bow. I'll let it dry overnight and wet sand the whole thing with 600 grit then apply several more coats. I repeat this until I have it perfect.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build21002_zpse9f89e76.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build21002_zpse9f89e76.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build21003_zpsb0a26758.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build21003_zpsb0a26758.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build21005_zpsc0c78977.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build21005_zpsc0c78977.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build21004_zpse3eee064.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build21004_zpse3eee064.jpg.html)
I plan on completing it this weekend if my new finish material shows up.
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It's really coming to life with some finish on it! Great job.
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Man that is a sharp looking bow and this has been one of the best build alongs I've seen!
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It looks great !
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Thanks guys.
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very nice
nice build along too
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Looks great! Very good build along
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This has been awesome. this may be a stupid question but here goes.. When you wet sand what do you wet sand with is it water or something . Thanks again Joe
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Or something else is what I meant to say.Thanks Joe
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Originally posted by choochoou:
This has been awesome. this may be a stupid question but here goes.. When you wet sand what do you wet sand with is it water or something . Thanks again Joe
Yea same question
Water would get the wood to wet?
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Get a bucket of water and put a small amount of dish soap in the water, soak the sand paper in the water till its soft and pliable then sand with that. It will just smooth the finish before the final finish is added. I didn't mean to hijack his question but I've done some wet sanding on vehicles so I thought I would jump in.
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Correct. A bucket of clean water and some 600 grit.
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Thanks guys I love the site.Joe
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That is one sweet finished product!! :clapper:
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I wet sanded it tonight and looked it over really well for any imperfections.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build22001_zps05b06fa0.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build22001_zps05b06fa0.jpg.html)
It looks good so I'll tack it off, apply a few more coats of Deft and let it dry overnight.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build22002_zps40a2f4c7.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build22002_zps40a2f4c7.jpg.html)
Tomorrow I'll wet sand with 1500 grit just to knock off any dust or lint in the last coats and it will be ready for the final finish. FedEx didn't show up with it today so it looks like it will be here tomorrow.
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really enjoyed this build along . very nice work ! will definitely be coming back again to look and read threw . thank you for sharing you're work and skill.
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Looks fantastic . Thanks for posting the build along!
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Very nice! Thanks for sharing!
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Wow! It really comes up something unreal! Great!
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Does anybody dislike FedEx as much as I do? According to the tracking info my finish material was supposed to be delivered 2 days ago. I still don't have it and they don't know where it is. I thought even FedEx could get a package from Pennsylvania to New York in less than a week. I guess I overestimated their ability. Unbelievable!
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Looks like we'll have to keep waiting to find out what this finish is going to be... :coffee:
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Well that bow is no good without the finish, so you might as well just send it to me. I'll find something to do with it!
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I'll get it right out via FedEx. You should have it about 3 days after never.
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LOL! Sorry for your delays. I cant wait to see this one finished! Awesome build a long!
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Thanks
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don't know about Fedex, but USPS sure takes some beating. Recent order took 7 days to cross Florida before even beginning to go across the sea my way.
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Still no finish from fed-ex? I've been coming back to this post every day for the final pics. I bet your Fed-up with Fed-ex!
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Possibly tomorrow. We'll see...
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Actually FedEx finally located my package and got it to me Sunday afternoon. My original plan was to try this coating from Eastwood called Elasti-Wrap. It's a spray on rubberized matte clear coating that you can peel off easily if you want it off. It's similar to Plasti-Dip but requires fewer coats for coverage. I've been watching YouTube videos on Plasti-Dip for over a year now and watched them coat cars, wheels and other automotive accessories with it. After some thought I decided this wasn't the bow to use it on because I just bought a Selway Slide-On quiver for it. My fear is that when I slide the quiver on it will tear the finish on the limbs.
After more research I found another clearcoat that Eastwood makes in an aerosol. It's a 2K clear with an activator canister built inside the can. To activate it you use the provided tool to puncture the activator canister, shake it up, and spray. It puts on a finish like a spray gun without the use of a air compressor or gun and has a pot-life of 48-72 hours. I used Dupont automotive clear on my last build and it worked great. I don't have a compressor here at home so I've been searching for something like this in an aerosol.
I still think the rubberized coating would be a great temporary finish on a bow, especially a hunting bow or a bow with a high gloss finish. I will be trying it eventually, just not on this bow. I hope to have the finish done on the bow this weekend and I will post pics when it's done.
I apologize for the long-winded post but I wanted to explain what the plan is.
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I use a spray gun but I know some guys have good success with these: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Preval-9-oz-Complete-Spray-Gun-267/202533738
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I bought one of those and was going to go that route until I found this in an aerosol.
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JGR1269
All that fiber glass in the riser, did you sand both sides or was it core tuff?
Can't wait to see the finished bow
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This one is all Coretuff but a few of my bows I used black glass and sanded the shiny side with 36 grit.
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I just sprayed the finish on the bow and I must say I'm impressed with this material. I've been in the painting business my whole life and have never sprayed an aerosol can that was this close to using a paint gun and a two component system. I'll admit it wasn't cheap but it was the answer in my situation. I was able to spray two bows with one can of clear. At $27 per can shipped, I think it was worth it. Now I have a durable, weather resistant finish that should hold up well. I'll post some pics when she's dry enough to handle.
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Good. Been waiting on this one
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Such a beautiful bow, shame you all build your risers backward. Got a link to that finish?
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I scaled it one last time after sanding and rounding the limb edges. I'm very pleased with where I ended up. Pretty much right where I wanted to be.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build23001_zps8c3ad105.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build23001_zps8c3ad105.jpg.html)
This is the finish I ended up using.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build23002_zps99f9d59a.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build23002_zps99f9d59a.jpg.html)
Here is the link for it.
http://www.eastwood.com/2k-aero-spray-matte-clear.html?reltype=2&parent_id=26897
This finish is really quite impressive. Since it is a matte finish I applied several light coats then I sprayed the last coat on from about 16 inches away to give it a slight texture. It resembles the frosted finish on a Black Widow and that was what I was going for on a hunting bow. I was really surprised how fast it cured and now 24 hours later it has a hard, durable feel to it.
I can't say enough good things about it and will definitely be using it on all my bows in the future.
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build23003_zps42ab82b4.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build23003_zps42ab82b4.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build23004_zps842f991f.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build23004_zps842f991f.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build23006_zps74095d1a.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build23006_zps74095d1a.jpg.html)
(http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah213/jgr1269/build23005_zpsdf11df7a.jpg) (http://s1381.photobucket.com/user/jgr1269/media/build23005_zpsdf11df7a.jpg.html)
I'll let it sit for a couple more days before I string it up and start shooting it. I have just a few weeks before the season opens here in New York and I plan to get some blood on it ASAP. Heading to Missouri in mid-October to hunt for a week and hope to knock down a good buck with it there. Please feel free to critique and comment. I'm always open to criticism and better ways of doing things. Thanks for following along.
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Nice job
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Nice jobx2 very well done.
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Turned out great Jon!
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beautiful bow!!
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Thanks for the very good build along. A lot of neat tips and tricks to keep in mind. That finish does look pretty good, and that's a sweet bow! I wouldn't mind following you on your next build! lol.
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Awesome build , beautiful bow. Thanks for posting it.
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Really good build a long. Turned out very nice!!
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Beautiful bow and great finish. Might see if I can source some of that spray over here.
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Just googled the Aero spray and its available over here-------Aus. $57 a can!!!! wouldn't want to waste any!!!
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too much sugar for a nickel.
James