Any issues gluring these two up as a riser. Ive been told the sometimes fail at the glue line because of the oily content.
Lots of them out there- glue them up right after you finish sanding them- brush or blow the sanding dust off- and glue away- I stay away from wiping them down with acetone- I think that brings the oils up to the surface.
I can say from experience, don't even think about gluing those two up with titebond ... better be using smooth-on.
Yes, use Smooth On and be sure the sufaces are adequately roughened to that it is impossible to starve the joints of glue. Ive used them many times and never had an issue. I have done it both ways... degreased and not degreased... but always immediately after grinding/sanding.
Smooth on for sure, thats all I use.
I haven't had any issues mixing the two.
Now problems here. I use a fresh ground wood, blown off with air.
I used these woods in the building of pool cues. The glue I used was Tite Bond. Never had an inlay come out.
Should be fine with titebond. Rough the wood size the mating surfaces by slathering on a layer of tightbond and letting it soak into the wood. Put another layer of glue on and clamp them together firm but not gorilla firm. The wood will fail before the glue joint.
The secret to all the "difficult/oily" woods is making sure they are dry. You can't rely on the wood shop that makes their living on selling wood. They will either tell you that it has been drying for years or they don't know but think it is.
This is where failures come from. Ever wonder why so many people have success with the difficult woods yet others frequently fail? Takes more than just a moisture meter to know what's going on inside that block of wood.
BIgJim