I'm wondering when in the building process do you add your sinew? Specifically before, during or after tillering. I have a good idea of how but am not sure of the "when". Thank you!
-Jeremy :coffee:
P.S. Not sure if it matters, this is in regards to a osage longbow that I'd like to add some reflex to. It's fairly skinny and only 60".
I've done before and after. If the sinew was planned then I'd get the stave to where its about to floor tiller, then sinew, then wait a month and tiller. I've also sinewed fully finished bows, which adds draw weight and stresses that make retillering necessary.
I've done both also. About the same results with both.
Thanks guy's. We'll see what happens then. If it doesn't blow I'll be sure to post some pics.
-Jeremy :coffee:
I prefer a 20" nutz tiller, then sinew. I dont care for suprises during a build.
The thought of surprises doesn't sit well with me either. But I have one bow that is almost done and one that is about half way. So the one that's almost done is gonna get the sinew and we'll see what happens. It's only my third bow and I have yet to get one finished. So, if it blows I still have one I can continue on. This bow building thing is certainly a learning experience.
-Jeremy :coffee:
No promises on suprises. I weigh my sinew and try to use the same amount on both limbs. I just want my tiller to be as close to the same as it was prior to sinewing. Everybody has preferences, almost all work in the end.
I like to get a bow to floor tiller before sinewing.
I am getting ready to sinew a little plains style bow. I talked to James Parker about it and he told me with self bows it's best to sinew after the initial tillering.
Like Pearl said "no suprises"
I also go to floor tiller. It's only personal preference to sinew a osage bow. Unless it damaged in so way.
I like to get it closer to 'done' before going to all the prep and process of sinewing. If it isn't going to be a great bow sinewing won't rescue it. Let shrink for a month and retiller. No wonder a professionally built sinew backed Osage bow is so expensive-it well should be!
Thats no kidding bjorn. Processing sinew is work. The rest isnt too bad.
I only sinew a bow that I intented to sinew to begin with. If I'm going to the trouble and time of sinewing a bow I want the sinew to stretch to its max and the bow to be able to handle its part of the stresses, and the combo to perform well in unison.
I hope it is appropriate to ask this question here.........Has anyone used the Titebond Hide Glue? I have ordered some but not sure it will 'shrink' the same as heated hide glue that you mix up yourself.
Bjorn, ask away my friend. I hope you get your answer. Secretly I was wondering the same thing also. Thanks for asking...
-Jeremy :coffee:
Liquid hide glue has a short shelf life. If it is old it takes forever to cure. I have never used it but I've heard if it is fresh it works fine. It does have additives to keep it liquid so I don't know how it effects the strength.
Bjorn asked "Has anyone used the Titebond Hide Glue?"
I am curious also?
Titebond hide glue is liquid hide glue.
You will miss out on the joy of stinky, warm hide glue if you use the TB style!
:thumbsup:
I only made on sinew backed but it was ERC. I used Knox gelatin to make the glue and it seems to have worked and wasn't vety hard as long as you have a hot plate or something in your shop.
I had the problem that the sinew came out very rough on the outside, like very ridged not flat. Any advice from the experienced guys here? Did I not shred the sinew enough .... I was sgredding sinew for days ..,
Yes, you will be shredding sinew for days. The thinner you seperate it, the nicer it'll lay for you. Also, try applying smaller bundles of sinew and make sure they are flat like ribbons when you lay them down. I seperate the sinew until it begins breaking lengthwise, then back off a little, so it's pretty small in diameter.
When it dries, it will be rough on the surface, it's ok to scrape it and sand it to even out the surface. To help with a more even surface, you can also brush or wipe on a little hide glue after your last sinew layer, and also do it again after it's all dry, then scrape and sand again. You can make it really smooth if you like. I like a bit of a textured look... or cover them with snakeskin or fishskin, etc.
You can keep your hide glue mixture in the freezer until the sinew dries, then thaw it, and reheat it quickly for the leveling of the surface.
Thanks for the tips. Now I need to figure out how to automate the shredding .... I have a feeling the answer involves a 1/2hp bench grinder ..... No ill need gear reduction or belt drive reduction .... Anyone tried this?
i think it was in one of the TBB??? where they drove lots of tacks through a board, and used like a comb to shred the sinew into hair like fibers. might be worth a try
Pet de-shedder works great to make angel hair out of it. It does "waste" some of the finer strings, but hey. It beats yanking on sinew for days. I can process enough sinew in an hour to do up an average bow with 3 layers.
Hi Gang,
don't mean to hijack this post but I am working on a 60" Hickory Recurve, just in the process of bending the tips right now and am curious if any of you sinew guru's have found much difference in the sinew from different critters?
I have intended this bow to be sinewed from the start.
Thanks.
Bert.
I agree with Pearl that I can make all the sinew I'll need in an hour. Similarly, I use a pet COMB to shred it. Its a heavy steel but smooth comb that not only separates the sinew but breaks it down as I pull the sinew over the edge of the back of the comb.
When you apply the sinew you press it down and out with something hard so the sinew smashes out flat. Don't overlap sinew bundles or you'll get the humps. Lay the sinew bundles in a brick pattern and make sure the now stretched and goey bundle fits in the space provided correctly then press it down with and antler piece or something.
If you want a very smooth look then shred the sinew into hair-like bundles. If you want a course finish then leave the sinew thick but soak it longer in the glue. I use a big crock pot so alot of surface area in the bottom and the glue is shallow....so I can lay out the longest bundles of sinew in that wide pan and let them soak.
Bert,
I've only used deer and elk backstrap sinew. No difference. I want my sinew as long as possible so I go with those.
Bringing this back to the top with another question. Once sinew or rawhide has been applied and dried does it need to be "waterproofed"? I know there is no such thing as waterproof but I'm wondering if there needs to be some sort of coating applied to protect the backing. Thanks!
-Jeremy :coffee:
I usually cover sinew backings with snake skins and tru-oil. I just applied a snake skin this afternoon over sinew.