After half a year I am finally working on my Hickory backed ipe longbow,
The first question I have is what order should I go in roughing to tiller?
Should I cut the shelf, handle and nocks in before moving on to tillering?
The other question I have is When building the shelf I have noticed a lot of bows with a rounded shelf what is the approx diameter I should round to and where on the shelf should the peak be?
the bow is currently 70" by 1 1/4 and my handle is currently 2 1/4
Approximate
One more
What should my limb taper be to get close to 40lbs?
I always do the tiller before the grip and shelf. If i string up the bow for the first time the chances are that the limbs won't bend exactly the same way. If the lower limb is weaker I just flip the bow around and the tiller is where I want it. Then I do the grip and shelf and the tips are last.
The radius of the shelf is not so important. The one thing that counts is that the arrow touches the shelf and arrow window at exactly the same spot. And this point should be vertically above the pressure point of the grip.
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Andy
So should I rough out the string nocks so I can put on a tiller string?
I leave the handle and shelf 'til last too. Another advantage of doing it this way is if your string doesn't line up perfectly, you can place the handle to match it. I leave my tips wide until the end for the same reason.
Are the limbs bending at all? I don't cut string nocks If I can't get it floor tillered first. Got any pics so we can see where you are at?
I don't have much bend as of yet I still have to take off some more. . I'll get some pics up shortly.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/locksmithjoe/Mobile%20Uploads/99fb9d22.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/locksmithjoe/Mobile%20Uploads/c2c03fac.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/locksmithjoe/Mobile%20Uploads/27888770.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/locksmithjoe/Mobile%20Uploads/dc8913b7.jpg)
Ok do how much bend am I currently looking for while I am floor tillering.
The core is about 3/4".
I do have about a four inch pull on the limbs.
She's starting to look like a bow. Unfortunately I don't have a short string for it yet.
I'll cut the fades and rough out the handle and shelf this evening.
Any tips tricks or ideas are more than helpful.
Thanks
Dang bows on the sidelines for a few days. Just shot a nail through two fingers. Something I do not recommend.
One thing I do recomend is testing your nail gun on a solid object before using it. The one I was using double fired and got me good.
Ouch! I'm gonna do my best to follow your recommendation on that one.
I would blend the fades into the limb before bending your bow too much.
That's what I thought. I'm still playing with handle shape pattern. Any suggestions?
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/locksmithjoe/Mobile%20Uploads/d91321de.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/locksmithjoe/Mobile%20Uploads/04251831.jpg)
Handles are rough cut. Time to get back to filing.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/locksmithjoe/Mobile%20Uploads/d8b915df.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/locksmithjoe/Mobile%20Uploads/05fb25f8.jpg)
Knocks and handle are getting closer.
Holy cutaway batman!!
I made a bamboo backed hickory bow, 62" 65# @ 28" and it had a cutout about like that, maybe not quite past center, but to center.
I could should arrows fletched with plastic vanes out of it cleanly. Only found out cause the bow ot finished before the arrows and I had some cheapo carbons lying around.
Good luck. and btw the plastic vanes did fly awesome. Weird shooting a wooden bow without the hiss of feathers throuh the air
Yeah my bandsaw is to blame for the depth of the cutout. It cut too much at bottom and of course perfect at the top. Still solid though.
Anyone make strings I could buy from that would compliment this beauty. She's 70" nock to nock.
Also looking for some trad arrows to match. I have a batch of turkey feathers from spring. Both fan and wing. And cash. Lol
Ok profile is roughed in pretty close to finish. While testing and stretching I heard a few pops close to the back and the fades.
I'm not close to full tiller yet.
Do I stop now and reback, put a snake on it or finish tiller and see how it goes.?
Or do I put it in knife handle pile?
I can't tell it may be any of those. I think ill let it set for a day so I don't do something stupid like overdraw or screw it up anymore.
Another question.
Getting close to final tiller. When finishing the hickory backing should I use a light sand paper? And should I keep the backing square or can I round out the edges a little?
Ok found the popping it's in the top fades zebra wood has a couple cracks in it now. Any ideas on repair?
Here's a pic of the crack.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/locksmithjoe/Mobile%20Uploads/4d03f4a1.jpg)
Here's a pic of the crack.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o526/locksmithjoe/Mobile%20Uploads/4d03f4a1.jpg)
Yes its bending there a bit. I'll try n get a tiller pic tonight
It's definitely a compression fracture. It's also looking like its coming unglued just at the crack. Can I cut it out sand it down and glue a nice Birdseye maple on then reshape with stronger fades?