1. Has anyone used Bow Grip 100 epoxy? It's apparently gap filling like Smooth On and fairly cheap. Just wondering if anyone's had luck (or not) with it.
2. Has anyone found kiln dried wood to have less strength (riser material) than naturally dried? I read something where the author felt kiln dried wood resulted in it being more brittle. I'm going to be heading to a great shop with a LOT of great woods, but I know some of it has been kiln dried.
Thanks for any input.
Jeremy
Kiln dried is fine. Its the moisture content that matters more than the method used to dry the wood.
Use the search function and type in bowgrip 100 vs smooth on
Thanks robertfishes-good info on that search....
Jeremy
I'm not changing from smooth-on until 1) they quit making it and 2) all the professionals start using something else.
I have used bow-grip 100 with good results but the mixing ratios were a little much for me and it was a little too thin and runny. With Smooth-on I just put a dab and another that looks equal and never have any problems and it is thicker, more like thin putty.
I have built 4 laminated bows, the last one I used Bow Grip instead of Smooth-on. I found the Bow Grip to be easy to use and spreads really easy. I did question if the thinner Bow Grip would fill gaps as well as the Smooth-On. I have not noticed any issues with the bow though and both epoxies produce shootable bows. The only difference that I noticed is the color difference it produces on laminations. Take a look at the Actionwood Angle Cuts in the picture. The one on the left was using Bow Grip, the one on the right used Smooth-On. The lams were identical prior to glue up so I am kind of partial to Smooth-On for appearance alone.
(http://i1102.photobucket.com/albums/g456/CPTDimondback/TriLimbs.jpg)
i learnt something new today, from a sawyer friend of mine.
1. big difference between dry wood and seasoned wood.
seasoned wood is tougher and finishes better.
wood that is air dried, is seasoning at the same time, hence the higher quality.
2.however wood dried in a commercial kiln set up, is usually dried at a higher temp, for a shorter period of time( costs, and productivity), this quicker drying time can damage the structural integrity of the cellular structure of the wood, as the moisture is forced from it- this will leave a piece of wood that doesnt finish as well, and is also compromised.
if the wood is kiln dried at a much lower temp, over a longer period of time, the damage to the cell structure is minimised. this is obviously not as productive- but if you supply a niche' market, and charge accordingly- then that is the correct way to do it.
my friend produces lumber especially for the boating, and cabinetmaker market- so i geuss he knows his stuff.
hope this helps.