Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Don Armstrong on December 07, 2011, 05:35:00 PM
-
I bought some scrap thin leather scraps to do grips with. It worked great when I put them on with contact cement but when I tried to sew the gap with artifical seniew it pulled thru. What kind of leather should I buy. I need thin but tough. I only had a 1/8" gap and didn't have contact cement at the gap so I don't think I pulled to tight. Thanks, Don
-
Tanned deer leather is the best. Strong yet stretchy.
-
Try folding and gluing the ends over so you have double layers at the punched holes. It wont rip out then.
-
If you apply glue to the grip and stretch it around the handle so that two ends meet flush, then you don't need to pull the lacing real tight.
-
Where can I procure some tanned deer leather. Thanks, Don
-
Local taxidermists, search online, check out the sponsors on here.
-
i use distressed upholstery leather. i also use artificial sinew to stitch the leather. i use a baseball stitch because it's strong. if you cut the leather around the grip 1/8" short you can stretch the leather tight, no glue needed. heare are 2 ive done (http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt101/broketooth/osagebowpics006.jpg)this one was a bulbous handle so it was easier to put the stich on the belly side. (http://i602.photobucket.com/albums/tt101/broketooth/2peiceselfbowfirsttry009.jpg)this was one ive done on a takedown sleeve. ive since redone this stitch in artificial sinew and has a happy home in michigan. rv
-
the only handle I did was with the leather from the tongue of an old combat boot. I also did as ruddy and stretched it. I did put mine on wet so the leather would stink a little once on.
-
Kelly, the smell from the stink doesn't bother you or the deer? Heh, Heh, Heh! :laughing:
-
when i glue on the handle i only put glue on the belly and the sides- its more than enough to stop the leather from moving. the back has no glue- cut it a little short, wet it thoroughly- then stitch.
i always glue a narrow backing piece under each side- ( before soaking) kinda similar as to what pearly said.
i like to use chrome tanned goat hide when i can get it.
after stitching- spray the entire leather handle a few times- as some water( depending on mineral content) will leave a water mark- so a few sprays over belly and sides as the soaked back area is drying eliminates that.
as it dries it will shrink up snug
-
Don there are some deer hides fur sale in the leather and quiver section right now.
-
Leather has a grain too. Pull it from different directions and then lay it up so that you are stretching against the grain; less likely to tear that way. For thin, glove-like leather, definitely fold it over into a "hem" of sorts. This strengthens it plus makes it look better IMO.
-
red hill just look at my avatar pic, I say it the deer are attracted to it. :knothead:
-
Leather will stretch across a hide but not so much along a hide(from head to tail). consider this when you set up your leather for any project.
-
If you soak the hide and hydrate it, you can pull it and it will be easy to see the direction of the grain. When I have to set a thin hide like a cat or turkey or mink I stretch the hide and glue up to the seam and actually pull a little slack at the seam. Lets say your handle leather is cut dry where it leaves an 1/16" gap, soak it and pull it where there is no tension on the seam this is where I like a little slack. After it drys the slack area will shrink more than the glued area tightening the seam. With a thin hide it is important to glue, other wise the shrinkage will be uncontrolled. First time I mounted a goose I was told I didnt have to glue, looked good for a month and then it began to look like it was ready to spill its guts all of a sudden.
-
Good point, Kelly. I knew that was coming. I'd already read your account of that bruiser. :thumbsup:
-
I got a nice swatch book of leather from one of those Scandinavian leather only furniture stores in town. Roughly 12"X12" squares. Several different colors too! When the "new line" comes out, the old samples are pretty much useless to them.
-
One source that I use here in Idaho is Moscow Hide and Fur. Not sure about the rules on links here, so just google it up. They have all kinds of tanned leather and other supplies you might find useful in your traditional projects.
-
Here's how I do it. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/leatherhandle.html
-
you can find good working handle leather ay any goodwill store , real cheap . just look around, old is sometimes better .