I took one of the Cherry staves I cut on 9/11 and started reducing it to bow dimensions. This is a really nice stave with 2 small issues; a little twist in one end and a knot right in the middle. As you can see this is no ordinary knot. I was cleaning the sides when I found this spot. The branch had abviously broken off several years ago and the tree grew over it. I cleaned it out and found it to be about 3/4" of an inch deep and it is right under the sap wood. The 36" ruler is lined up with the ends of the stave. I could put it in the handle or in the limb depending on which way I go. Just not sure how to handle a spot like this.
Full Length
(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu207/aussiearcher/9_11%20Cherry%20Bows/DSCF2285.jpg)
Back of Bow
(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu207/aussiearcher/9_11%20Cherry%20Bows/DSCF2281.jpg)
Knot
(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu207/aussiearcher/9_11%20Cherry%20Bows/DSCF2282.jpg)
(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu207/aussiearcher/9_11%20Cherry%20Bows/DSCF2294.jpg)
Opposite side
(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu207/aussiearcher/9_11%20Cherry%20Bows/DSCF2291.jpg)
Location on Limb
(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu207/aussiearcher/9_11%20Cherry%20Bows/DSCF2287.jpg)
(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu207/aussiearcher/9_11%20Cherry%20Bows/DSCF2286.jpg)
Any and all input would be appreciated. I am going to continue reducing the limb area and leave the middle part alone for now.
If you have the length available I would cut it in two and splice it back together minus the knot. Thats an ugly knot for sure.
I hadn't thought of that solution drums. I will check it and see if I've got enough length.
Only got 30" on the one end, so don't think that will be an option.
I would put it in the limb. Looks like you got about 3/4" of wood above that knot. That should be plenty thick enough in the limbs for a moderate weight bow. It will make a nice character bump in the limb too.
Is the knot just on that one side? If so, you might be able to eliminate it when shaping the handle even if you have to offset the handle a little to do so.
You could possibly put it in the non working part of the handle and still get a 62" to 64" t/t bow. Make it wide.
Okie and Pat, they are the two options I am looking at.
Pat, the cavity goes in about 3/4" if I eliminate that how does the surrounding wood tend to act. I know there is the actual limb wood in the knot and then the wood that flows around it. It that wood just as stable in the non-bending part of a handle as straight grained wood.
Okie, yes there is about 3/4" of sap wood above the knot. It would be in the fade area or early part of the bottom limb, if I go that way. I have not tillered anything like this before so want to be careful. That said, until anybody does therre first they have never done it before either.
I might pick another one to start on.
I would work the knot into the middle of your handle, pretend it is not there until you get to the long string. I would then plug what what ever hollow place is left with sound wood using urac. If you have a non bending handle and cover the spot with leather you will never know it is there.
Here is one of my extreme handle buildups.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/frankenbowshapedhandle.jpg)
Still shooting as far as I know. Here is a picture of the same bow a guy sent me after he bought it from an archery shop in Chattanooga 5 years after I made it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/Frankensteinnowpic-1.jpg)
Thanks Eric.
I think putting it in the handle will be the way to go. The rest of the limb is very straight grained so probably have the best chance of getting a bow out of that. Will take plenty of pics and put them up as I go along.