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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: oneraindog on July 21, 2011, 02:50:00 PM
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in the bowyers bible in the chapter about the yew LB the author describes making the top limb one inch longer by measuring one inch from the center point of the splice to find the "center" of the bow. the nocks will be equal distance from this point thus making one limb longer. this will "enable you to properly tiller the bow"
what?
why?
what if there is no splice?
im always confused why people recommend doing something in a book but dont go on to tell you why that is the way to do it. :dunno:
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Its an opinion, not a neccesity. The more you learn the more you will find that the Bowyers Bibles have LOTS of opinions mixed in with hard facts.
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i thought that might be the case
but im still wondering WHY? what is the intended purpose and rationale??
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Balance and feel during the draw. If you shoot 3 under a shorter bottom limb COULD feel funny. If you shoot split it COULD feel better I suppose. I shoot 3 under and build equal legnth limbs as well as an equal tiller on all my bent chunks of tree.
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I've tried both and both get the job done. I am like Chris though in regards to even length and tiller.
Just can't see our Native American's worrying about limb length or positive tiller... They hit the mark when it counted & long before we met and befriended Ishi. I don't know about the English. Maybe, the asians were fiddling around with such back then.
I like primitive, which in my mind is a simple design of all wood. Like in the Cowboy & Indian movies we watched as kids. I know the picture in my mind is distorted & mostly due to Hollywood but that was the environment I was raised in. As a child, that is what got me interested in archery and I can't see them worrying about 1/8" positve tiller or one limb longer than the other,,,, unless by chance or mistake.....
Someone here once said, "I alway's use K.I.S.S. when making a selfbow".
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Yep, I agree with Pearl and Osagetree on all accounts. I go to dead center from tip to tip (both limbs equal in length) and put my arrow pass about 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" above center. Maybe I'm effectively shortening one limb by doing that and not doing it conciously? All I know is that it works. I also don't try to fight positive tillers or tiller for my 2 under style of shooting, but then maybe I should?
I kind of feel like by putting the arrow 1 1/4" above center (almost exactly 2 fingers worth) then shooting with 2 fingers under in effect creating a positive tiller on the bottom limb, may be the perfect balance for my bows?
Whos to say.
Just use what works for you and if it's working, keep doing it.
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oooooookay! this makes sense. thank you guys. i actually lose sleep trying to figure out why and why didnt they explain it better!
now i feel dumb because that seems self evident.
how long do you guys make your grip section to allow for the arrow rest or sight window or whatever
?
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I use Al Herrin's design. He measures the center of the bow from tip to tip and then ENDS the fades four inches above and below center for an 8" non-bending section. The arrow rest is 1.25" above center and the upper fade is longer than the lower fade, making the bending portion of the limbs the same length.
On my posts under making my fourth bow in the bowyer's forum, I have pictures of the design drawn on my current project stave.
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Dont over complicate it in your mind, its 95% work and 5% thinking after a few! Most of the stuff you wonder why its not explained better is opinion...............you know what they say about opinions. ;)
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i know you are right pearl and i wish my brain could turn it off sometimes but i tend to obsess on stuff like that. i just cant stand being told a formula works without being told WHY it works. i have always had this problem. this is why i hated math in school.
teacher: "just use this formula and dont ask too many questions"
me:"SKDJFAJHSDFJKASDF"
i lose my sh*t. haha
thanks for all the help.
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Mine's pretty close to what Don described except an inch shorter. My actual handle is 4" which is near perfect for the size of my paw, then I leave 1.5" for the fade on each end for a total non bending section of 7 inches. Whatever feels most comfortable to you is what works the best. Some guys use a much longer handle section, but I just don't care for long non bending sections mainly because I make my bows shorter than some guys do at around 60" to 62" long. So I want it bending sooner past the fades for more working limb area on a shorter bow. Hope that made sense.
I'm no expert by any means, that's just what I've settled on that works for me.
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The BB is correct for ELB bows (arc of circle tiller). The arrow needs to be near the center of the string and bow, therefore the bow hand is just below the center of the bow.
Even in stiff handle flat bow design the bow tends to be better balanced and positive tiller on the upper limb and limb "timing" work better if the top limb is longer.
This is NOT a matter of "opinion", it is born out in practice and tradition. I don't know any experienced bowyers (100+ bows) who make equal length limb bows.
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When it works perfectly both ways, it is a matter of opinion.
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Equal length limbs works for me and that's proven results, not opinion.
But here's the thing, I think by the position of my hand and putting the arrow pass 1 1/4" above actual center of the bow the limbs react as if one was shorter and one was longer..........in principle that is. I think I'm actually making the bottom limb stronger by building my bows the way I do, so in effect it acts like a positive tiller on the bottom limb. If that makes any sense?
I know this debate could probably go on forever because everybody interprets information differently. Bottom line is do what works for you.
No matter how you arrive at the same destination, the desired result is the same for everybody. To make a smooth, accurate, shootable bow as close to perfectly tuned as possible, right?
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Always an interesting read........Art
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How do you build 'em rookie Artsy?
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Originally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
How do you build 'em rookie Artsy?
I design mine for the way I grip my bows, and then grip a bow for the way it was designed. Now, does it get any simplier than that Pearly? Art
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I make my bow's like OLD Arty does:) We make Man Bows, not girly bows like Pearly Boy:)
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So you build them with equal lengths........I thought so rookie.
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Don't make me take a road trip out there and thump ya a good one son:)
Yes equal length limbs bowyer boy... :)
1/4 pos tiller for 1 finger over here.
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/agsbow1.jpg)
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/agsbow3.jpg)
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Is that pink dye Royboy?
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Nope, why ya looking for some? :)
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oneraindog, the reason you would make the lower limb shorter than the upper is to place the static(the geographic center of the bow between the nocks) and dynamic(the working center of the bow when drawn) fulcrums in essentially the same place right out of the gate, making it simpler to achieve properly balanced limbs in the drawn bow.
if you make bows with limbs of equal length outside of a 4" handle, you will likely need slight negative tiller(lower limb weaker, i.e., the upper limb stiffer) to achieve proper balance, not the other way around, which is a regretfully common misconception.
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Originally posted by J.F. Miller:
if you make bows with limbs of equal length outside of a 4" handle, you will likely need slight negative tiller(lower limb weaker, i.e., the upper limb stiffer) to achieve proper balance, not the other way around, which is a regretfully common misconception.
Art
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My bow limbs are of equal length with the bottom limb 1/4" stiffer at full draw. But the deciding factor is how she feels when I draw her. If she's balanced we are good to go. :) Jawge
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Originally posted by Art B:
quote:
Originally posted by J.F. Miller:
if you make bows with limbs of equal length outside of a 4" handle, you will likely need slight negative tiller(lower limb weaker, i.e., the upper limb stiffer) to achieve proper balance, not the other way around, which is a regretfully common misconception.
:thumbsup:
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Originally posted by PEARL DRUMS:
Is that pink dye Royboy?
:saywhat: :nono:
You kids play nice.
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wow. this has become very informative.
waaaaaaay better than any math class i ever took, pink dye and all.
thanks.
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"I think by the position of my hand and putting the arrow pass 1 1/4" above actual center of the bow" SEMO_HUNTER
Unless your hand is 2.5" wide at the grip... you are making the top limb longer.
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How can that be if my hand is dead center of the bow? Then the arrow is 1 1/4" closer to the top limb than the bottom limb.
Doesn't really matter, I'll still keep building them the way it works for me no matter what theory claims to be "correct" depending on who came up with it.
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Originally posted by SEMO_HUNTER:
Doesn't really matter, I'll still keep building them the way it works for me no matter what theory claims to be "correct" depending on who came up with it.
one of the best things, to me, about building and shooting wooden bows is the myriad of possibilities. seeking out the cost/benefit relationships of bow designs that best serve the purpose is half the fun
there is no shortage of correct ways to tiller a bow, and there is no shortage of incorrect ways, either. I'm not sure we are all talking about the same things all the time when we discuss balance, timing, tiller, etc.
one thing I am sure of is that the laws of physics work the same in your shop as they do mine. we all work within those confines.
put your bow on a tillering tree with a single point of contact, taking care to rest the handle on the contact point as near you can to the place where the pressure of your hand grip is centered and see where it balances at full draw, making sure to pull the bowstring from the place where your middle finger would be if you were pulling it yourself, and see what you need to do to make it balance where you want it to.
balance, it ain't just for teeter-totters, fellas.
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I truly understand your thinking on this subject J.F. and where you line of thinking comes from. But do you only build bulbous handle bows only? Only shoot with a low contact grip? I'm not saying that what you're doing isn't for you and a few others. It's that for the vast majority of us, what you're describing can't and won't work.
You need only to study the many full draw pics that folks post to understand that the greater strain is on the lower limb. Be it even limbs or longer upper limbs. For many of us, a tillering tree is considered a lying tree. We can't mimic by hand what we see on the board by what the tree tells us. Our thinking on this subject will continue to evolve, as I'm sure yours will too. Just keep an open mind to everyone's thoughts.....Art
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you speak for the vast majority of people who make wooden bows? really?
to each his own. my thinking on the subject never stops evolving. lots of right ways to make a bow. this thread started a question as to why anyone would make a bow with a shorter lower limb, I offered an explanation based on the facts as I see them. I'm not challenging anyone elses opinion. after 15 solid years of making and shooting wooden bows, and with well over 200 successful bows of various designs and materials to my credit, I thought I had enough perspective to offer some of my experience as viable input on this forum. my mistake.
happy tillering everyone.
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Well raindog, how ya gonna make your bow? :) Best of luck on it..
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JF that's why we are all here is to offer our "Own" perspective on how we do it, not necessarily the right way or the wrong way and there are many different ways to make a good shootable bow.
I appreciate everyone's opinion and I usually take a little something from all of you. I'm still fairly new at this and if it weren't for some of these guys I would never have gotten as far as I have in such a short time.
Even you Roybert! :knothead: :goldtooth:
Only thing that ever gets under my skin is when somebody starts quoting from books or tries to tell me that what I'm doing doesn't work when I've proven that it does.
I think everybody needs to understand that there's many different ways to arrive at the same destination whether it seems right to them or not and we all have our own style of how we get to the same end.
Afterall, if it weren't for evolving ideas and thinking in a different direction we may still think the world was flat?
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Since I obvious don't speak for the vast majority we'll let them speak then Miller. What are they telling you? Art
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Jamie, I don't believe I've ever seen anyone make a bow with a positive tiller on the lower limb. Can you go into more detail for me in your theory? Thanks, Roy
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Isn't it just possible that traditional warbows, as we call them English longbows, were built accordingly with the lower limb stiffer than the upper. I'm sure our ancestors developed these bows after quite a bit of research, thus making them so effective in battle. Keep in mind that the original English archers which were to shoot these bows trained for 10 years, generally speaking, pulling 120 lbs. These men would have had massive upper body strength. All this aside, I think the point here is that perhaps the lower limb being an inch shorter, and a bit stiffer was how these bows were originally designed to be supremely effective with massive penetrating forces at long distances using heavy, bodkin tipped, ash arrows.
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Yes, the laws of physics always apply but which laws? Because I taught science and chem for 35 years I had access to physicists. I asked a pHD in physics once how much force is on the nocks at full draw. He said that is easy. If it is a 50 # bow then 25 # at each nock. Not true as we know from experience there is not that much force on the nock ends or the skinny little nocks most favor would snap like twigs. This is a very complex issue. No one is right or wrong. For example conceptualizing the bow as a lever only describes half of the way it actually behaves. It is also a spring. The force is spread out on a properly tillered bow along the whole limb. Here's the way I think of it. If the arrow pass is 1.25 in above center and if you use the Med. (split finger) draw then you are gripping the bow in the center as Tim Baker would say. However there are still 2 fingers under center putting the bottom limb under just a little more strain. However, Art is so right when he states that how you grip the bow makes a gigantic difference. For years, I would tiller the limbs even on the tiller tree only to find the bottom limb significantly weaker than the top. Then I started making the bottom limb a little stiffer at full draw and that seemed to solve the problem. I started checking draw in front of a mirror and still do. With the advent of digi cams I now have my wife snap a pic as I draw after the bow is tillered. Drives her crazy but I'm worth it. Nothing can approximate how the bow is held. That's why how it feels when you draw is important. I've written too much. I feel like most what make it to the end of this post. Art, you still there? Hello! Shall I continue? How about bows that bend in the handle? So we make those with 2 in shorter limbs? I think not. My poor students ...having to listen to me for 53 minutes. :) Jawge
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Whoa! I did write a long post. Sorry about that. Just read the first sentence. :) Jawge
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Yes Jawge I agree, and we haven't even gotten into what happens when shooters "walk the string" for shooting different yardages. :saywhat:
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Semo, you actually read that whole post? String walking with a selfbow could be dangerous. It is bad enough we've made our selfbows look like glass bows (not me) and now we are going to shoot them like glass bows. I'll stop because I feel a major rant coming on and all before Sunday church. :) Jawge
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Good Sermon Jawge:)
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This article explains things quite well:
http://www.bowyersedge.com/organic.html
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Yes, Dean does, Adam, if you buy into the lever theory as the sole driver for explaining how a bow behaves which I do not. I guess you didn't read my post. LOL. Thanks, Roy. :) Jawge
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Yes Jawge, I read the whole thing. I was just trying to see if I could get a rise out of ya bout the string walking......I think it worked. :goldtooth:
I don't, nor ever had the desire to do that and I don't see how it could be any good for the bow, especially a self bow.
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I think the only reason some bows are made with a shorter lower limb is so short guys can shoot a long bow... :knothead:
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Originally posted by Roy from Pa:
I think the only reason some bows are made with a shorter lower limb is so short guys can shoot a long bow... :knothead:
:biglaugh: Now that just ain't right Roybert! :nono:
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Ah, my friend, you like my rants perhaps because they ring true.. My Dad, Lord rest him, came over from Greece. Long story. His mother, father and brother still lived there. Dad would go back every year to visit. Of course, my brothers and I would miss him. I guess we kind of liked it when he yelled at us. Made us feel loved. When he got back from a long visit we would do things so he'd yell at us. :) Jawge
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I'm a bit of a ranter myself George so I completely understand.
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roy to answer your question i now have a much clearer understanding of why a bow may or may not be built one way or another but i am much more confused about how i should build this bow :)
but i figure that wont get much clearer until there are many more bow building years behind me. which i am very excited about.
so i guess ill just build this bow and see what happens!
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Joby, build one bow with a shorter bottom limb, then one with equal limbs. It's all fun and you will learn so much working on your bows. Ask questions all you like. You will learn how your bow needs to be built..
I used to make my bows with the bottom limb 1 1/2 shorter than the top limb. Now I make my bows with equal length limbs. In my opinion, my bows shoot better with equal length limbs. But that is just my bows and my shooting style. Trust me Joby, you can't just make one bow, it will never happen. You make one and you make two and then three and it never ends:)
Just don't listen to anything Semo Elmo says, cause he from Missouri:) He can't bass fish either:)
His biggest Bass. LOL
I use them for bait here in Pa...
(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f165/ROY-CHRIS/aafish.jpg)
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ha. by "just" this bow i meant more like ill just go ahead and jump in and see what happens. ill decide as i go.
trust me this is far from the last one. this will be my 4th (3rd is still in progress, sinew curing)
my biggest problem is making myself slow down and not rush just to get the next project started :)