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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: evildocrsx on March 07, 2011, 08:31:00 PM
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My first attempt at making a static recurve from a hickory board was unsuccessful. One recurve broke while bending it. I steamed/boiled each side for 3 hours then attempted the bend when it broke. I used a 5/8 slat as the stave. Did not sand the belly nor any sharp edges prior to steaming. I used a 10 inch circle as a pattern and made the pattern out to a 90 degree bend. I have a few questions now.
1.Is the slat too thick? What thickness would be ideal for a 50-55lb bow?
2.Is the degree i used for the pattern too aggressive?
3.Is dry heat better than steam heat on hickory?
I'm a newb, so thanks in advance.
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I am by no means an expert. I am just now building my 6th hickory bow. The last one I reflexed with heat. It was successful and turned out to be a mighty fine shooter. Gave it to my dad.
I just recurved the tips on another one yesterday. Hoping for a static recurve. We'll see if the tips remain stiff. I'll begin tillering this week sometime. I cut out my front profile and put it on a form and used dry heat to bend the last 5 inches or so to somewhere around 50 or 60 degrees. I didn't measure the angle just went with what looked good.
Some of the gurus around here will chime in shortly but I hear to use dry heat on dry wood and steam on wet wood. I've only used dry heat so far.
John
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For really sharp bends like that I like to cut in a kerf and glue in a spline and bend it all up with glue.
1/2 thickness, with whatever you use to fill the kerf is easy to bend and the recurves stay in better.
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That's what I did was stick it in a pot of water and boiled it. I did it for 3 hours tho.
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Yea, 3 hours is longer than needed. Did you use the all important belly pressure strip when bending to keep it from splintering?
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I did use the belly strip. Although it was not as wide as the stave.
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If you can, post some good pictures of the break and your setup.
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You really need to give hickory a little extra consideration when trying to bend it. Stuff is tuff which makes it more rigid and harder to bend.
I agree, 3 hrs is way to long for boiling. Try just steaming, 45 mins max for 5/8" IMO. You only have a short time to get 'er bent, say a minute or so.
Also, the stump end (as it grew in the tree) will most often be the most difficult end to bend.....Art
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I don't have a camera to post pictures, but i was able to fix the recurves with urac.
I want to back it with bamboo, but i don't know what dementions of the bow should be. I'm planning on making it 1 1/2 inches wide at the widest part of the bow. I don't know if it is too wide or not.
I also don't know how far up i should start to taper to the tips and how wide i should leave the tips. Any advice anyone?
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I've been able to do some pretty extreme bends messing around with dry heat and hickory. I couldn't believe how plastic the stuff got at temperature, or how well hit held up under load once it cooled off. Not sure I'd even want to try steam or boiling afterwards.
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What do yall use for a pressure strip?
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how thick do you make your stave before heat bending it?
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I used a thin metal 3 foot ruler as a pressure strip.
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anyone have any input on what the dimensions should be.
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(http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae320/evildocrsx/2011-04-11_18-18-19_425.jpg)
I have already glued the bamboo to the belly stock. One of the limbs was twisted. I used Urac so I don't know if i should use heat on it. I hope the weight of the C clamps is enough. Any one have any ideas? please.
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What part of the limb is twisted? Or does the entire limb twist? An 1 1/2" limb width should be about right with a hickory belly.
You can heat, to certain extent, with the urac glue. I would just heat the hickory though....Art
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Why not work the thickness taper in first so the tips are thinner and easier to bend?
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Art B: Thanks. I didn't have to use heat. The c-clamps worked pretty well. It was actually the outer 1/3 that was twisted. My concern was with heat and urac. Well at least Iknow for next time. thanks.
PEARL DRUMS: It's kind of hard to see in the picture, but the limbs are tapered. The limbs tips have the recurve and the whole bow stock is reflexed.
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I have another problem now. When I glued on the riser piece, it slipped about half an inch. So the limb that was designated to be the top limb is shorter than the limb that was designated to be the bottom limb by one inch. The top limb measures 26.5inches and the bottom limb measures 27.5 inches to the riser.
The reason that it was designated like that was because of the node spacing on the bamboo. The top limb was supposed to have the wider spaced nodes and the bottom limb was supposed to have the closer spaced nodes.
Will it be ok if i use the limb with the closer spaced nodes for the top limb as it is the longer limb, or will the bow be fine if i use the shorter limb on top?
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Here's the pic.
(http://i983.photobucket.com/albums/ae320/evildocrsx/2011-04-26_20-21-36_802.jpg)
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it should be fine. make sure the longer limb is the top. thats more important than the distance of the node spacing. don
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I have bent hickory with dry heat only, and it worked fine. I think the trick is to to wait long enough for the wood to reach the temperature at wich it gets soft. If you fasten the tip of the bow so you can bend it by lifting or pressing the bow, you feel it when it the wood is ready, and not much force is needed to make the bend. I prefer a hot plate as a heat source.