So what is the best and qickest way to shape risers, power tool that is. I have a router and could set something up with it or what else would you buy if you could, within reason. I am trying to get set up to build some bows this spring and need to get everything together.
I use a combo belt sander for 75% of the wood removal and various rasps for the rest. An oscillating spindle sander would be a good buy though. Its my next purchase.
Just looked a a oscillating spindle sander. Could a router be set up to work like that just without the oscillation?
The oscillation is key.
Darn!
Menards sells a $100 unit that would probably last for a bit. You could use your router to cut your tapers in both ways though.
Tools I use Belt/disc sander, Oscillating spindle sander. Then after the hand tools are used I use a hand held orbital sander as much as I can before having to go back to hand finish sanding.
Shawn
I just converted a standard belt/disk sander into a jim dandy vertical edge sander for bow building. Done two bows with it now and I'm extremely pleased, even though I didn't need the tool... I just had the sander and wanted to see if I could come up with a way for folks to build an effective, cheaper bow sander than the big 80" monster I normally use.
Anyway, I did a build-along of the work and it's posted on my web site: www.dickwightman.com (http://www.dickwightman.com) click on Archery Activities, then scroll down to "Converting Sander..."
When it comes to shaping the handle area and the tips and overlays the osc. drum sander or a drum on the drill press is my go to tool.
I have a $100 sears unit, Grizzly and others are prices close. Having a vacuum connection for the dust is a good idea.
Ron
I do 90% of my riser shaping with a 3" drum in a drill press, and the rest with a ridgid belt sander.
QuoteOriginally posted by GREG IN MALAD:
I do 90% of my riser shaping with a 3" drum in a drill press, and the rest with a ridgid belt sander.
I like this idea because then you can't nick any other part of the bow on the big sander.
I am with Greg have used a 3" and 2" drum in my drill press for years. Then the rasps and files, I have a pneumatic sanding sleeve but haven't been able to find the correct size sleeves any longer. I can't remember where I got it, dang it. Has anyone tried one of the flap sanders with the slashed ends for finish sanding? I don't enjoy hand sanding.
I use the "flap" sanders on metal for polishing and cleaning rust off. When I have tried them on epoxy and wood during refinishing a canoe they removed way too much way too quickly. I do not think they would be suitible for finish sanding.
QuoteOriginally posted by needcoffee:
... I do not think they would be suitible for finish sanding.
they sure sound awesome for roughing out...
My main tool is the Rigid Oscillating belt sander. Great tool. Then I move to files, rasp and sand paper to finish up. A dust collection unit is nice also.
Nothing can ruin a riser faster than a ROUTER!!
If your speaking of risers for 1pc. forms. Mark your shape on the riser blank, cut it as close as possible with a band saw then use a drum sander or robo sander to finish. Shortcuts usually come at a price.
I start with a ferriers rasp then a Nickolson 4-1 rasp then my Ridgid belt/spindle sander then smaller finer files and finally hand sanding.
I hate to say it here but I can't stand the feeling of using a rasp. Like fingernails on a chalk board to me. I think I will get a sure form soon and try it but the rasp drives me crazy.
I use an electric bandfile alot, it takes 1/2" x 18" sanding belts.. I got mine at Harbour Freight for about $30?? I have used it on 9 bows so far..I bought a used Jet Oscillating spindle but havn't used it, I just need some sanding sleaves..think I will order some tonite. I should have bought the Rigid belt/spindle combo, it sure looks handy!
I use a craftsman 36" belt sander, mostly the rounded end,a dremel tool, then elbow grease with a 4in1 and just sand paper by hand. But would really like to get a spindle sander also. looks like they would help a lot.
I cut out the basic shape on the bandsaw, then do the fadeouts on the planer. I use the 3" and 1" sanding drum on the drill press for the basic sanding then go to the rough rasp, fine rasp, block sanding then hand sanding. Whew! You can skip the drum sanders and go straight to the rasp too, takes about the same amount of time.
I use some rasps & files and a belt sander but I just got a oscillating spindle sander on sale for $80 and I love it. But I still will use all of the aforementioned tools.
I do 99 percent shaping on my Grizzly 80 in profile sander. Slap on some heavy grit and you can flat out make sawdust. I do all shaping by eye and feel.
God Bless you all, Steve.
I shape mine with a 4x36 belt sander. Heavy grit on the drum end. If you want a smooth, professional finish you'd better get used to a rasp or file. After the sander, I caress mine with a half round file on the contours and the flat side on the flat wood. No mater how careful you are, any power tool will leave dimples. A file will smooth everything right out. You don't have to be a gorilla, just light, even strokes. It's quite therapeutic. Then start with heavy grit sand paper on a sanding block, go to the next grit and so on. I use a sanding block for all my sanding until I am at the 400 grit. If you use finger pressure, your fingers will follow the soft grain in the wood and make an uneven finish. Ask a professional auto painter if he uses a block or his fingers.
Right on Mike. I have a sanding file I made that takes 1 inch belting. I use it for my heavy file work then I go to a 16 in board sander that the sandpaper clips on. Commonly used for body work. I use mostly 8 grit on that . All the flats ect need to have any little gouges or wobbles that might be made with a profile sander taken out with a board flat sander. If you don't do that then they really cause problems later.
You are right. it is theraputic. I enjoy shaping and sanding.
God bless you all and have an awsome day. Steve