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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: RAU on December 18, 2010, 01:23:00 PM
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Wheres the best place to get a 2" depth of cut flush cut patternmakers router bit?
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Have you checked Rocklerwood.com? They have almost anything,good quality to.
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Here is the place the company I work for orders bits from. They are a little more expensive than buying them at the big box stores, but they have just about any bit you could possibly need.
http://www.hartlauer-bits.com/
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you can get most any router bit here.
http://www.eagleamerica.com/product/v102-0552b
item# 102-1265B
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I use a router table with the #7807 bit, so far so good.. http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html
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An important safety tip: if you are making a new form and drive screws close to the edge where you will be routing, make sure you drive them straight. Just a little contact with a metal screw will absolutely trash a brand new $45 router bit. I won't make that expensive mistake again...
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I bought mine at Woodcraft
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I bought mine from Grizzly
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Woodline is less costly and hold up pretty decent.
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Has anyone found a top bearing bit for a 1/4 inch shank that is 1 3/4 or longer? Seems the 2" ones are all 1/2 " shank. Dont want to have to buy another router. but might have to. I've done the two pass, but I think the 1/4 inch shank is not stiff enough to keep everything square when it is extended way out.
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The ones at the big box store are not flush cut, they are made for trimming laminate tops, so it cuts close but not flush. I think I am going to buy a 1/2" router and get the long bit and cut it in one pass.
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I think I might have to do that too. Pulling the 1" bit so far out gives me the willies and I think it is a bit off square.
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I think I might have to do that too. Pulling the 1" bit so far out gives me the willies and I think it is a bit off square.
i just bought one recently but don't remember where I got it. But, one inch cut was the longest I could find for a 1/4" shaft. If you find something longer please post it. But, the 1/2 router is probably the solution. Hate to spend the money given that I hardly ever use the router for anything but forms.
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I agree Monterey but you could always sell it later when you get old---older :)
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Robert how does the router table work and are you doing one piece longbow forms or takedown forms? I haven't tried it yet I have the same setup.
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BuddyB, I have made 2 one piece Recurve forms, a form for a 66" R/D longbow and a ILF limb form using the Router table. I had never touched a Router before making those forms.. I tried to use the 2" bit without the table and it did not go well,very hard to control. So I purchased the table and got it done. I was talking with Steve Jewett a couple of weeks ago and he has made a good number of forms.. It sounds like he routes his forms the same as KennyM, Kenny might have a video or pictures of his process.
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I agree Monterey but you could always sell it later when you get old---older :)
I ve been missing Roy since he went MIA but you are filling in nicely.
:biglaugh:
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:thumbsup: :bigsmyl:
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I tried the freehand router and it didn't work out well for me either. I'll try the table.
thanks.
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Buddy,I'll try to tell you how I did it..Didnt get good sleep last night, I have not had to make a new form in 5 years, I am not a wood worker by trade so I have only used the router for bow forms.... First I Remove as much wood as I can before routing.. I use a 6 ft straight edge to mark a straight line onto form for bottom of template, then screw a template onto form, trace line onto form, remove template, cut about 3/16 from line, using my belt edge sander sand 1/8 inch from line then screw template back onto form and use router table to cut final wood surface. Checking the surface with a good square I mark any divots ( i usually get one) and fill them in with bondo, Then I use 3M High temp 90 spray contact glue to glue a piece of 040 black glass on top of the cut form, Guys like kennym that have great skill with their routers can skip the glass..
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I bought a router table years ago thinking I would use it with profile jigs until it snacthed a piece of osage and slammed it into the wall and nummed my fingers for awhile :scared:
Now I use it for forms. My bit has the bearing next to the table. You still want to saw as close to the line as possible before routing.
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I tried once doing it by hand and knocked a big chunk off the end of my recurve form so I quit and went back to my drill press drum sander. I have the flush bit and router table so I want to try and use it for my next form.
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Quote from Stic"You still want to saw as close to the line as possible before routing."
That's the most important part.
well said Stic
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I just cut out a form and sanded close to the line on my Rigid oscillating belt sander and I'll be dipped...it is smooth, flat where it needs to be and square. Now I dont want to use the router!