Ok I am impressionable. KevinL's post about wild cherry got me thinking on building a trilam R&d longbow with a cherry core. Been waiting on some IPE but I done have some good Cherry.
Actually I am going to do 2 One hickory backed and one bamboo backed.
Here is my question, what should I use on the belly? For me cherry can be finicky, my first trilam exploded while tillering (black walnut, maple and cherry)
On hand I have walnut,juiper, maple and hickory. I know cherry is good in compresion, but didn't really want to use it on the belly. Any advice?
The second question, Has any one got a working model of the lam thickness of a all wood trilam 68" at 55#? I haven't had a working trilam yet, glass would come in around .280 to .290 over all
I would use a compression strong wood like ipe or osage for the belly lam.
The reason I am not using IPE as the core is access. The only supplier I have is a 2 hour drive and then it is 8 to 10 bucks a board foot. And at the moment I have no good supplier for Osage lumber.
So I was trying to stay with something local, My addiction to bow building limits me on how much I can spent on a bow...If I sink to much in one, I won't get to build the next one right away and will have to wait.
I have One source that says White Ash has a compression strength or 2250 which is real close to Osage at 2600 and they show IPE at 1850
why not use the hickry you have?
-hov
Use your hickory on the back, walnut core and maple belly. Might should put a powerlam in too. Thats just my opinion. I dont think white ash is anywhere close to osage or ipe in compression strength.
id use the hickory or get some white oak brock
LIVING WATER S SORRY I RE READ UR POST YOU STATED THAT A ALL WOOD TRI LAM WOULD HAVE A WORKING THICKNESS OF .280-,290 GLASS??? IM LOST A ALL WOOD TRI LAM IS 3 DIFFRENT WOOD TOTAL NO GLASS ?? I MAKE TRI LAMS SOMTIMES AND I USE HICKORY OR BOO FOR THE BACKIN AND MY MIDDLE WOOD WHATS RARE AND WHAT I HAVE A LOT OF FOR THE BELLY SO IM THINKIN LIKE YOU STATED GO WITH HICKORY BACK CHERRY MID LAM AND JUNIPER BELLY THAT D LOOK COOL BRO BUT NO GLASS BROCK
Living waters, dimensions that worked best for me on trilams are 1/8" backing, 1/8" core and then 1/4 or 3/8" belly. They start out pretty heavy but that way you got plenty of wood to scrape off the belly and get the tiller right.