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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Jack Guard on June 22, 2010, 08:24:00 PM

Title: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: Jack Guard on June 22, 2010, 08:24:00 PM
Hey Yall,    :wavey: ,  I have a pretty decent Hickory stave I have had for several years. OK OK, I have had it for 6 years.  It has a nice 1.5 inch deflex built into it.  When I floor tiller it, the limbs seem to take a set.  I can get the set back to its original deflex just by pushing gently in the opposite direction.  I understand Hickory is rather hydroscopic but this is ridiculous.     :banghead:   Its like a dang al dente noodle.  

I am thinking i can put it in a drying box (which I have yet to build) to remove some of the moisture between tillering sessions.  

So i guess i am asking....

  :)   Is this normal ?
  :)   What am i in for when i finally get this baby    tillered.
  :)   Should i consider backing it.  

Here is a quick pic, not very telling, of the stave.  

(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb308/GooseBreath/IMG_2097.jpg)
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: John Scifres on June 22, 2010, 09:55:00 PM
That's weird.  How heavy is it?  Never pull it too soon.  And never pull it past your draw weight.
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: Jack Guard on June 22, 2010, 09:57:00 PM
I have only floor tillered it about 3 inches so far, have not put it on a tillering stick or tree.
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: Eric Krewson on June 22, 2010, 11:09:00 PM
It appears you picked too narrow a bow profile for hickory. You need the limbs to be at least 1 1/2" wide. You can go narrower if you glue on a backing in a reflex.
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: Jack Guard on June 22, 2010, 11:25:00 PM
The limbs are right at 1.5 inches for the first 10 inches after the handle fade.  

So Eric, what type of backing do you think would be best.  I know that's subjective.  Rawhide, sinew, a hickory slat ?
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: bigcountry on June 22, 2010, 11:26:00 PM
Do not push opposite on a bow you just had braced.  Again, do not do it.

Guess how I know?
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: SoNevada Archer on June 23, 2010, 04:14:00 AM
I've had good luck with raw hide on hickory.
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: Dean Marlow on June 23, 2010, 06:41:00 AM
Jack I have had the same problem on my last 2 attempts on Hickory also. I am o.k. up to about 40lbs. Then after that terrible set. My staves are over a year old but they were in my shop all winter and I think they took on a bunch of moisture. I live in Illinois and it is wet here all the time any more. I really think that you can't hardly get Hickory dry enough around here where I live. I need to make a hot box for my Hickory. Dean
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: Eric Krewson on June 23, 2010, 08:33:00 AM
The limbs should be at least 1 1/2" wide(1 3/4" would be better) for most of the limb length, tapering about a foot from the tips to 1/2" nocks. Hickory makes a poor ELB type bow. It needs a flat belly instead of a rounded one.

You could flatten the back and glue on a strip of bamboo while adding about 3" of reflex during glue-up and have a screamer. I have made 3 or 4 of these in the last few years, none over 1 1/4" wide, all retained an inch of reflex after being shot in.
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: Jack Guard on June 23, 2010, 10:59:00 PM
Eric, sounds great.  I have three pieces of bamboo i have been dieing to try out.  

I bought the stave already profiled.  I guess i should have left it in a more rectangular configuration.  

Oh well, good reason to use that bamboo.  

Thanks a bunch everyone.  Jack
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: DCM on June 24, 2010, 09:28:00 AM
I say you need to build the hot box.  I have found (in Memphis, Tn) that I literally cannot get hickory too dry, and most often not dry enough.  Man tall 1 1/2" hickory will make a 60# @ 28" imho.  I'd vote too wet.

How long is it, how much bow do you want?

Build the hot box, or at least find a place where you can achieve 40% or less, sustained 24/7, or where it might range 20% to 50% during the daily cycle.  

All that said, I have run into batch of hickory (from up North) that was a lot less dense than what we get around here.
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: Pennsyltuckey pete on June 24, 2010, 01:42:00 PM
I have a drying tube that I use.  Stove pipe mounted over a light bulb.  cost about $15 to build

pete
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: chuck172 on June 25, 2010, 04:34:00 PM
By the looks of that picture, the bow is WAY to long for you!
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: Brock on June 25, 2010, 06:47:00 PM
I made a hot box but use it vertical with light bulb in bottom...adjustable vents on two sides near top...and have a temp and humidity gauge hanging in middle of door.  I can also put a tin cup of water in bottom if it gets too dry...

so far so good.  Hickory is hydroscopic and sucks up water from air like a sponge...
Title: Re: @#$% &*(% Hickory Stave
Post by: barley40 on June 30, 2010, 07:01:00 PM
I found that hickory must be as dry as you can get it. Simple way it in the attic or in a vehicle out in the sun. It just won't dry much just standing indoors. Most locations have too much inherent moisture and unsealed hickory absorbs it. Hickory will not take a set more than other woods if dry before bending and tillered properly. Use alcohol based stain and Tung Oil Finish. Never put anything on hickory that would add moisture.