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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: ejwitman on March 05, 2010, 10:42:00 AM
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I would like to attempt making a black locust d bow out of a 2 1/2" tree. I have made cherokee d bows out of both hickory and 19 year old black locust fence posts. Lots of ring chasing to get by cracks. I would like this bow to have the sap wood back. Here are my questions.
1)When is the best time to cut this tree if I want to reduce it right away for drying.
2)How many rings of sapwood should be left on assuming there will be multiple rings.
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When you cut it doesn't matter with BL. BL functions best as a heartwood but you probably won't have enough for a bow. Now, what happens in a living tree is that sapwood is eventually converted to heartwood as the tree grows. So if you must have a sapwood back get as close as you can to the heartwood. The sapwood will be stronger and denser. Look at your tree and decide. The closer the better. My fist shooter was made friom a BL sapling with a sapwood back. Jawge
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I would cut now and remove the bark and go with the sapwood right under it for the back. If you wait a month or so the bark may peel easier.
One problem we have just up the mountain from you is bores attacking sapling locusts making them unusable for bows. Once the trees get bigger they seem to outgrow the grubs and lay down good solid rings.
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Thanx y'all. I would really like to go with the sapwood for appearance and understand the risk. I am working one of my fence posts staves right now and must admit it is promising. Only need to remove about 7 growth rings to get below cracks. Think I will wait to Turkey season down here is over to cut this tree. Unfortunately if it has bores I have ruined a future bow.