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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: AkDan on October 03, 2009, 08:41:00 PM
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Well the left limb is still a tad stiff, but I'm running out of holes and I'd like to get to the short string. so here she is. Sorry for the shadow's, had the garage door open enjoying what few days left of "FALL" alaska has LOL!
I did want to ask, what size round file for string grooves yall prefer? The tip overlays are glued on already.
(http://inlinethumb38.webshots.com/21093/2817269210039378858S500x500Q85.jpg)
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A chain saw file works great. Don't rush the short string too much. I'd shorten up your long string and get the mid limbs bending a tad more brfore the short string. When you do go to a short string,don't string it with a brace nay higher than 3 or 4 inches. I hear ya a long winter is coming huh.
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I'd say to leave the middle 1/3 of the bow alone and work more on the mid to outer limbs.
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Pat, I was thinking that too..they still look pretty flat mid limb?
Gonna run to the hardware store....was going through some old stuff on the puter, I couldnt remember what size LOL!....boy I've read this stuff a zillion times, damn if I can remember any of it heh.
Dano...definatly will do! Gotta work tomorrow (my monday), so I need to get the file or I'll have to run into the big town after work tomorrow ugg. wait wait...I may have remembered something, some files I had tucked away for this jobs a couple years ago...now if everything wasnt in rubber maids uggg!
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ok a little more scraping...didnt go to town, found my tackle box in short order, complete with round files, and a triangle file which should help keep me striaght LOL.
Anyways, the left limb in this pic looks flat and the right one almost looks like too much bend near handle? almost hingy?!?!
(http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/44235/2572253970039378858S600x600Q85.jpg)
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well I had to do a little more tonight before I hit the sack.
It's bending a little more...the left limb still seems flat? the right limb I found the hingey area using Eric's tiller gizmo. On that right limb, about 7"es up from the tip I found this knot that has me concerned. Actually saw it all along and thought I was going to get through it. oops! might have to do a Dean T's repair job? Now if I could only find that article. (and an extra piece of osage ugg) (http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/36886/2298725910039378858S600x600Q85.jpg)
The hinge is on the right limb almost right smack mid limb...dunno how I missed it early on...but I can see now using the gizmo where I took too much wood off a 3" section or so. It doesnt look like I have much bending near the fades though....what would be the order you'd go after? Mid limb, tips then fades? Anyways here's the last pic for the nite.
(http://inlinethumb48.webshots.com/20143/2867596870039378858S600x600Q85.jpg)
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oh and I figured out how to do a reverse picture...not sure how to overlay them, but wow it's almost embarassing, the one shown above looks ok (to me LOL), reversed it looks terrible! not sure if things just are not level or if I'm that far out of whack shew!
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AkDan, these fulldraws are useless without an unstrung picture. Sorry for being rude, but this tiller could be WAY off, or pretty much O.K.
Nick
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some stats could also be usefull. Woods, length, width, profile...
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dutch, that is on the long string, I still dont have the short string on. she's a bbo, headed to work, I'll get you width and length later on.
After seeing that pic now that I'm up again there looks to be litle to almost no change between the too...and here I was excited LOL!
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To me the right limb has a flat spot from mid limb out. How far are you pulling it on long string? I would put a short string on it and see where your at, the best way to miss draw weight is to spend too much time on long string.
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I wouldn't pull it any farther until you get the limbs even. Then go to a short string and see where you sit.
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Dang I'm wrong again, :confused:
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not completely, Dano. We are on the same thought process, just with different observations. I'm sure you remember not having any other option than you could come up with yourself. Having the luxury of other opinions is in the favor of the new bowyers today. Just think where we would be had we had all of this input long ago! d:^)
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I hear ya Pat, the way I look at it is the limbs bend well enough, and to spend too much time on long string is way worse. Just my way of going about it. :D
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man I cant see the pics while I'm at work ugg...
Gotta say the tiller gizmo is pretty slickm. I think I mounted my tiller tree to hit for this shorty LOL!
So, I'll get the left limb bending some more, outer third and the right side from midlimb out? I know there's a bad spot right smack before it, huge gap difference using the gizmo....well huge to me :D
how close to the tips do you want to get before you stop having them bend to much? I know the vid said 6"es (dryad, dont have a vcr anymore to watch Deans video again ugg!) I marked it off at 6"es and have taken very little off past this.
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Akdan, it doesn't matter if it's a fulldraw, halfdraw or just a slight bend. the unstrung picture and the frontprofiel determine wether your tiller is good or bad. your pictures are useless without.
Nick
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I usually leave the last 4" to 6" stiff, depending on the overall length of the bow. Leave the tips thick and later narrow them. This will reduce the physical weight without reducing the strength.
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np Nick..cant do much till I get home...well ran home for lunch real quick but dont have but a few minutes on duty days. I'll post an unstrung profile pic. It's a dryad bow blank, Dean Torges style RD bbo, but off hand dont know the specs.
I did look at the spot I think was hingey on the right limb...It's almost exactly mid limb where I had marked not to remove wood from.
Ok...back to work for me..ugg!
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here's the unstrung profile pic (http://inlinethumb13.webshots.com/37964/2400343410039378858S600x600Q85.jpg)
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ok....a little more bending pics...looks like the tips are getting closer...
But the left limb at the fades looks a tad stiff?
I keep looking at this pic and notice the flat spot on the outer third on the right limb right where that pin knot shoots acrossed....do I plug it? or do I try and shave through it first? (http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/42716/2629803410039378858S600x600Q85.jpg)
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wanted to ask, if the pulley string as I pull down on the pulley moves off to one side..I'd assume thats the heavy side, if everything is square?
and my pull is dead..it's a 100lb pulley but a piece of crap..good idear needs a better set of bearings in it and less slop to keep from binding. ugg
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But the left limb at the fades looks a tad stiff?
yes.. but a hair stiff. Go slow. 10-20 passes with the scraper, then check the tiller. C-r-a-w-l towards it.
it's come a long way since the first picture. You're getting close to it.
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ah that's way better AkDan!!
tiller looks good enough to me. Better get her braced before she comes in underweigh or becomes whiptillered!
Nick
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well...gotta pack for my trip home...thanks for the help so far...hopefully I'm not to much of a pain in the arse :D . I'll started all over again when i get back on the 24th with filing the string grooves and getting the short string on.
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The last picture looks pretty good. If you imagine a line between the tips in that pic you will see that you have reached "brace height". So you are ready to put a short string on it. This will tell you a lot and is called "first brace". Hold the bow out at arm's length and turn it so you can see the braced profile. Do not pull it farther! Post a picture of this braced profile and we can help you see what it needs next. The two axioms for self bows are "never pull past where you (or we) can see a flaw" and "never pull past finished draw weight".
I would not worry about the knot area near the tip. There is very little force that far out on the limb. Leave it alone and maybe a little thick there till near the end of the process.
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Dan, on another thread you were asking about the bow rolling in the cradle of your tiller tree. Once you have it on a short string, that is braced, it will not try to roll on you.
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Shaun,
This one is rolling when I'm pulling down on the pulley to the long string. I'll remember that though. Make's sense on the short string.
Hey how far is iowa city into iowa? I'm headed to Mn tomorrow. One of these years I'm going to stop by Roger Marconi's place...never seems to be in the cards though and this fall is already pretty packed with family and friends I'll be lucky just to hunt a few hours in the mornings. ugg....
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ok...so the string grooves are filed got a short string on...how does things look? To me the left looks stiff from the fades through mid limb and bending to much the last 6-8"es or so? Right ?!?! not so sure. (http://inlinethumb25.webshots.com/44824/2938903980039378858S500x500Q85.jpg)
ps sorry for the bad pic...it's 4am and I'm still up LOL! got a new vcr and had to watch Deans vid again, it's been quite awhile!
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Even though the left limb looks a bit stiff it is hard to actually tell until you draw the bow. How far have you drawn the bow so far? Bring it out to that point and take another pic for us. How is the string tracking at brace? You can tell a lot about allingment at brace but need full draw pic to see how the final tiller worked out.
Work your way out slowly and give the limbs plenty of exercise after each wood removal.
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Pat....
sorry was up way to late last nite playing with the bow.
As for string tracking..it's really close. My timber hitch isnt so great on the one end so I'm not 100% that the string is straight but it is quite close, might need a small adjustment. Going to make a double loop string for it or a dynaflight single loop string.
I havent drawn it past this point at all.
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I am curiuos why Dean T advocates tillering this style of bow at brace....and the hole homogenious thing kinda trips me up there lol.
I retract that last statement I have drawn it past this on the longstring. The last photo is as far as I've gone on the short string. Been a rough couple of nites. Plan on working on it more tomorrow.
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The long string is only for early bending. After about 6" or 8" of tip movement on a long string the results get distorted. I go to a short string at that point.
Dean has done a lot for wood bow building but I do some things different from Dean. With self bows the staves can be too irregular to make brace measurements for positive or negative tiller. I never bother with that when I build bows. I do pay attention to string tracking at first brace. Generally at that point you have enough "meat" in the bow to make those corrections without overshooting final draw weight. Full draw is where it matters to me. If your bow is well tillered at full draw it is well tillered at brace. That being said...I'm going opposite from most others by trying to see how simple I can make it and still be effective and ethical for hunting.
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Like Pat, I use a long string very little in the tillering process. I go to the short string quickly and to full brace. From there I "feel" the bow into final tiller because I use a tapering method and only have to reduce weight.
Like Pat stated, full draw tiller is what you want. But the one thing I've noticed is after I set my tiller at full draw my bows are usually positive tillered between 1/8" to 3/16". Guess its the way I grip my bows. I use a medium grip.
ART B