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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Looper on October 02, 2009, 05:33:00 PM
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I'm tillering a Torges BBO blank and need some critical eyes to have a look.
In these pics, the upper limb is on the right.
Unbraced:
(http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad183/wclooper/bbo1unbraced.jpg)
Now at a 5" brace height:
(http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad183/wclooper/BBO%201/DSC_0004.jpg)
Next is drawn to 10":
(http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad183/wclooper/BBO%201/DSC_0005.jpg)
Now to 14":
(http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad183/wclooper/BBO%201/DSC_0006.jpg)
Finally to 18":
(http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad183/wclooper/BBO%201/DSC_0007.jpg)
It's pulling 55# @ 26" now. I'm shooting for 55# at 29".
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Is the bow asymetrical (shorter lower limb)? An unbraced picture would help too.
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The left limb looks shorter and both could use some more scraping on the out 1/3 of the limbs.
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Yes, it is assymetrical. The upper limb is 1 1/2" longer. I'll post an unbraced pic later.
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I think your outer limbs are too stiff as well. Try to get them bending all the way to the tips but gradually bend lees as they near the tips...Glenn...
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It's hard to say about the outer limbs till a guy sees the unbraced shot. If that glue up has a couple inches of reflex the tiller look great.
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Unbraced pic added.
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I'm going to add a nock. I don't think I'm hooked in the same spot on the string in a couple of those pics.
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Yep, I agree the outer limbs need to bend a little more. Whats with all the string grooves?
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What string grooves? I've only got 2.
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"I'm going to add a nock. I don't think I'm hooked in the same spot on the string in a couple of those pics."
I was talking about this comment. I guess I'm confused. :D
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I mean an arrow nocking point. I think I'll at least add a piece of tape. I think the draw point on the string is in a different spot in one of the pics.
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Okay, as soon as photobucket will save my pic edits, I'll add some new photos. I'm pretty close to where I want it. Should the upper limb have a little more bend in it? Right now, when braced, they both measure the same from the string to the high points in both limbs. Should the upper be about 1/4" more?
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outer half of each limb needs to bend more (assuming your not making a holmegaard type of bow).
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get the longer, upper limb bending more. The lower limb is taking the main load now, (if it's the left in the picture). A positive tiller fits to most bows, especially to bows with a longer, upper limb.
Nick
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Okay, here it is at a 29" draw:
(http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad183/wclooper/bbo129-1.jpg)
I'm going to put the arrow rest at 1.25" above center. Is this correct? I've got a pencil line drawn that shows just barely above my left hand in the pic.
Right now it feels like the upper limb is a touch stiff. Do you think it looks a little stiff on the outer part of the lower limb?
It's pulling 60# @ 29". Pretty much on target.
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How does it shoot with the arrow 1.25" above center? It's not so much the measurement as it is a sweet spot, it could be 1" who knows. The upper limb does look stiffer in the inner third, and both limbs could bend more toward the tips.
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It seems to shoot pretty good at 1.25". It shoots pretty hard and is fairly quiet for not having anything on the string.
I'll shave down the upper a bit and on both towards the tips.
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"Grip your bow the way it was designed or design it for the way you grip a bow". This way you will always know where the "sweet spot" is.
That 1 1/2" longer upper limb requires a lighter grip. Pictures are had to judge ones grip by but you might want to straighten out your wrist a tad and see how that feels. That will also lessen the strain on the lower limb and engage the upper a little more.
ART
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Art, I need to grip the bow pretty close to what I am in the pic. A formerly broken wrist starts acting up if I straighten it.
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I know what you're saying Looper. Got a weak wrist myself and have to grip my bows similar to yours. For your next bow you might want to consider placing your arrow rest 1 1/2" above center for a medium grip. That makes the upper limb just 1" longer.
Note in your full drawn picture how lowering your grip affects the area just outside the handle fade. This can effect long term tiller health. ART
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I haven't cut in a rest, was going to glue on a leather self. Can I just grip this bow a little higher on the grip?
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Sure, that would work fine looper. That bulbous style handle doesn't lend its self to a cut-in rest anyhow. ART
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Do you think this bow will hold up at a 31" draw? It's 64" nock to nock.
I've been working on my form and now I'm pulling to 31". I'm a little concerned that 31" might be too much for this bow.
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In my opinion, 29" is as far as I'd go with a 64" ntn length. Plus, in looking at the string angle at the nocks in your full draw picture above, you seem to be very close to 90 degrees (if not just a touch more on the upper limb.) If it doesn't already, it will probably stack at anything more than what you're pulling now. I'd say you've got a nice looking bow right now, and if it's shooting great, I'd stay put. Again, just my $.02. I'm sure some other folks can shed some clearer light on the subject.
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That what I was thinking. I think I'll try a 68" one next.