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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: DVSHUNTER on July 04, 2009, 10:27:00 AM
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Well I finished my first osage bow with a bit of dissapointment. After I cut my bow to dimensions on the band saw, and then thicknessed my limbs the bask took a hit from one of my kids toys and cut my ring so I went from a floor tillered bow shooting for 50 pounds to one that ended at 30 after I took off the ring to expose the next unbroken one. It looks good for tiller, but just pretty light. How many, if any pounds will a backing add?
Thank you
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I'm not sure, but I'd bet you could get it back up in weight a bit if you put a bit of backset into it before you sinewed it.
I chock up the tips and use a piece of dacron to pull the belly down, then sinew over it. Once the sinew dries it will pull a little more and there you go.
What length is your bow?
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What are the dimensions of your bow? Like Clay said heat some backset into the stave then add sinew to get the weight back up some.
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A simpler solution: cut an inch of each limb tip. That should gain you 8-10# in draw weight.
But that solution depends on your bow's design (it's length vs your draw length). More thoughts of mine on bow length (http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2008/06/selfbow-length.html)
If your bow is really long for your draw length, you may be able to cut 1.5-2" off each tip and get the weight you want.
Sinew can add weight, but the time involved is seldom worth it (such is my biased opinion). Also, the tiller will change completely with sinew, so you'll have even more work to do.
And sometimes, the bow has to be left alone and chalked up to experience. But we won;t know until we know what design (stiff handle vs D bow), the length of your bow, and your draw length.
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sorry for not posting quickly I had to take my kids to the rainy parade. The bow is 58 in. and I draw 26 so I don't wanrt to cut any off
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It is a d bow based on dean torges design.
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hmm.
You would gain weight with sinew and backset but but not the 20# you want.
I'd chalk this bow up to experience and start the next one. For the time you'd invest in backsetting, sinewing, and re-tillering, you could have mad another bow (or two) in that time.
Personally, I'd focus all that time in the next bow, rather than trying to jockey a 30# bow into a 50# one.
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Thanks shamus, I already have two going. Are you going to MOJAM
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what about a bamboo backing. It wouldn't be a self bow, but I'd like to try backed bows too. Although I really like osage self bows. I was so happy to see my light bow shoot those first arrows!
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It's osage. Cut it down to <60", put three layers of sinew, and re-tiller.
I would not sinew any bow over 60" long. That's just my way as I think after the 60" mark your adding too much mass to the limbs.
Osage is a wonderful wood, it can be abused and live a very long life.
When I make my short recurves, I build a 60/65" flatbow. Tiller it in, string it, and shoot the heck out of it.
Then I cut the bow down to my desired length, recurve the tips if I want, and start sinewing.
I hate making nothing bows, so I will work with what I have to get what I want.
My last bow, popped it in the heat box too soon. After two weeks, the 4 layers of sinew popped off. So I pulled all the sinew off and canned it, bad mojo.
Then I started the process once again. The bow took twice as long but it was well worth it in the end.
That is just my way though.
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I agree with Frank. I would cut it to 56-58in, then add 3 layers of sinew, and retiller. Or add a bamboo backing.
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If the bow is straight with no prop twist, you can add bamboo IMO. I have never done it, but I have a simular bow right now i am considered adding backing.
I plan on using a hand electric planer to get flat, and then glue on 1/8" bamboo.
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Recurves add alot of drawweight, as does backset.
My guess: shorten it to 52-60", temper 3" of reflex in, add recurves, sinewback it with 3 layers.
the tempering will add a few pounds, my best gain was 11#, recurves might add another 5-15#, and sinewback will also add more than a few pounds. This will give you your desired drawweight, or even a little more.
bamboo isn't suited for all woods, but certainly for osage. Plane it down, and glue the backing on in a bit of reflex. Floortillered ipé staves were stiffer than a piece of railroad after being backed with boo. It sure adds alot of drawweigh!
Nick
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You are asking too much out of sinew to gain 20#'s of weight. Bamboo backing will be your best bet as a backing. It will take a 25# floor tillered piece to nearly 50#'s. Save the sinew for a project specifically designed for it.
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Well I would have to say that bamboo is looking like my best bet, so now, where do you suggest getting some good boo?
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David, someone oughta have some boo at MOjam.
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maybe they will make a trade for some osage.
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I think about shorten each limb,but if you must sinew.I always picked up around 3 pounds each layer added.Depending on thickest.
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do you like "miricale" whip on your sandwichs too! ;) You'll find someone for that underweight bow. I say don't push it to hard.
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I did a search for some sinew info and found this thread from not long ago. I figured I would bring it back for all to read. There is alot of good info in this one. I also wanted to ask all how much sinew they use per bow. Mike Yancy told me satuerday that he uses around 1-1½ oz. I just wanted a few more ideas.
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David, I don't have any info for you.
I was the big guy across the isle at Yancey's seminar.
If Truman lake here at Warsaw behaves this year I'd like to invite you up for some bowfishing.
Ron
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ron, that sounds like fun. Did you learn much from mike?