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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: razorsharptokill on July 03, 2009, 09:49:00 AM
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This is my KennyM designed longbow "VooDoo Chile". When I was cooking it I had a drop in air pressure to 40 lbs from 60 about an hour into it. NOTE: Always check your airhose for leaks prior to glue up. I did not and it cost me.
I caught it and boosted the pressure up to 90 in hopes of squeezing any gaps. It started out as very small verticle lines that have progressively became worse.
Bow still shoots great. I was thinking of injecting CA into the void and clamping it. I can live with a cosmetic flaw as I can skin the bow to hide it. It is rapidly getting worse now and I have put it on the injured list for now. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v42/keyman/bows/lowerlimb.jpg)
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I've never tried such a thing, but I think if it will take some CA, that's what I would try first.
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I'd get some glue to her!!!
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No more shooting for her until I get this repaired. It is such a sweet shooter too! I've yet to build a bow that doesn't have some noticeable flaw.
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I don't think I will ever build one without a flaw. I think it's pretty close when the bowyer has to look really hard to find one though! I'm getting close.
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I guess I should elaborate on my above post. It might make folks think that I make flawed bows! :)
Since I have gotten serious about building them, I have a more critical eye. I haven't handled any bow since then that didn't have flaws. I have learned to keep my mouth shut though when handling other folks bows that cost bunches more than what I build. I certainly haven't seen anything built yet that I would call "flawless".
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Got some CA into the void but it didn't make it all the way to the other side. I think a tiny drill bit may be in order. It has a c clamp on it now and I'll leave it that way for a few days.
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a friend told me about a repair similar to yours, he did say to drill a couple of tiny holes to let air out as the glue goes in, he used a syringe and heated the glue to thin it
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I wouldn't drill through the glass. I think that would lead to cracking in such a high stress area. I think, { NOTICE I SAID THINK} I would drill the entrance from the sides of the limb and pressure feed the glue from a syringe. I just have the sense that going through the glass will lead to longitudinal cracks in the glass. Never a good thing.
Apex,
I know what you mean about a bowyers eye developing an ability to find flaws.
pete
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I used the edge of a razor blade as a wedge to alow the insertion of the syringe. I shot as much as I could get in there but it did not completely fill the void. About 50%. I may drill from the side if I can find a bit small enough.
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There are Dremel style bits that will be thin enough.
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Ok, saying that it does hold... what snake skin do you think would look good? I'm thinking copperheads but am open to suggestions. I know copperheads can be hard to come by.
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You can take my .02 cents here and shoot it down with good reason.
I would not cover the bow with snake skins. There is the issue of is it going to hold? To put skins on it you may in the long run be throwing good money after bad. Then again you may not. I would build a new bow for the snake skins. As far as what to do if this one holds? I think I would paint a camo finish on it.
pete
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I had a bow do that, in the same place even.
I filled the hole with CA glue and its been shooting for a year and a half.
Try it!
Kid
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Maybe some skin ezz? Going to try to get some more glue in there and hope for the best.
Good point on the skins. If it shoots for another year with the skins on then starts to fail again, I won't know it until its too late.
I think I better just build a new bow. You can never have too many ... right?
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Well I shot it today. It held but time will tell. I think I might incorporate some rubber bands into my process where the fades are and slop more glue to them in the future.
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i would say get some very strong epoxy and rapin bow rap and hope for the best.
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If it gets worse I'll just make it a wall hanger. It'll just give a chance to build another one.