Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: dobermann on June 04, 2009, 05:32:00 AM
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It's still on the long string, but feels very good, I'll be sanding it a bit but, I won't be messing with the tiller too much.
The bow is 51'' I have not checked the draw weight yet, as I'm not done sanding yet, but it's going to be over 45lb.
I call it my stork bow because the knot looks like a storks head.
It's made from mulberry chased to one ring and has a fake leather handle, that's all I have at the moment.
Thanks for all the help, I pretty much can make a fair bow now.
Sorry about the pics, but I find it really to photograph.
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kqRLbpLvd3M/SieOrEeht4I/AAAAAAAAAgo/fad4V70pLj8/s400/P1020162.JPG)
(http://lh4.ggpht.com/_kqRLbpLvd3M/SieOpU9jmOI/AAAAAAAAAgg/950aAouGDpM/s720/P1020170.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kqRLbpLvd3M/SieOnqE7R6I/AAAAAAAAAgQ/sKx_XoNsl7Q/s400/P1020171.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kqRLbpLvd3M/SieOmM7p7TI/AAAAAAAAAgI/5nqFa2YlJ6A/s400/P1020172.JPG)
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Lets see it with the short string. I have found that the short string really changes the looks of the tiller.
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I generally don't go past 8" of tip movement on a long string. Like Ranger said you will get a different reading(both weight and appearance) from a short string as compared with the long string tiller.
Your tiller looks good on the long string. Lets see some short string pics; braced, unbraced and full draw.
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Man!! that knot scares me. :eek:
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Here are the pics of it braced on a short string, unbraced,and drawn. The bow does have some set but the stave did have a natural bend.
I have a 27 1/2'' draw, I broke my right elbow, and cant full extend it.
The knot scares me too, but thats the best stave I've been able to get so far, I think it might be a good idea to back it.
I can't find ant tru oil here, I read in one of the treads here about using acetone mixed with 2 part epoxy, works well, would you guys recommend it?
Thanks for the interest.
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Sorry forgot the pics.
(http://lh3.ggpht.com/_kqRLbpLvd3M/Siff2taZoiI/AAAAAAAAAh8/CAjfs2wadqE/s400/P1020176.JPG)
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kqRLbpLvd3M/Siff1wU-5WI/AAAAAAAAAhM/-ZqDlMnJYq0/s720/P1020175.JPG)
(http://lh6.ggpht.com/_kqRLbpLvd3M/Siff1XFJOyI/AAAAAAAAAhI/N5SaYdKTD3I/s720/P1020174.JPG)
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2 part epoxy thinned with acetone(aka Massey finish)makes a good finish. It can be tricky to apply, though. You have to wipe it on in one movement and not mess with the next coat until the first is dry. Make up the mixture and keep it in a sealed jar. Should last a week or so that way. When I make it up I don't go by a recipe but mix the epoxy first then thin it to the consistance I'm looking for.
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Thanks a lot Pat, I'll give it a go.
I'd like to paint a birds eye on ether side of the knot, and was wondering if i Would have to paint, on the finished surface, or is there something I can protect the paint with ? I sure an acetone wipe would destroy the paint job.
Sorry one more question what would be a good paint.
Thanks again for taking the time to help.
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You could add a water based poly over the paint then apply the Massey finish. Do a test first though just to be sure.
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Thanks a lot guys.
I went shooting today, the bow was awesome, but Dano you were right, after about 500 shots a crack developed on the knot, I didn't feel it crack, must have happened on release. Anyway well wroth the effort, I'm thinking of using the good limb for a splice or a TD bow.
I have a few more logs that I split, but all are full of knots, I chose the best trees I could find, so will just have to make do with what I have.
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Dobermann,
You are joining the club of hard knocks, or should I say, "cracked knots." It seems to be the bane of self bows and knots to get them to work out long term.
I shot a 3D course a few weeks ago with a pretty sleek Osage self bow that has a knot hole in the lower limb. When I finished it there where two longitudal hairline cracks starting from the knot hole so I wrapped it well with sinew. Then I proceeded to shoot the best score I've ever shot to date with any bow. But during the final targets I started hearing the dreaded "Click" coming from the lower limb. Sure enough, the knot hole developed another crack running toward the side of the limb. The top limb will be saved for another project. These wood bows are fun but take a lot practice to get just right.
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Hey Chris, for me it's even worse, we have at least 3 big Typhoons a year, the local wood is very twisted and full of knots, I own a farm with a forest of trees, so far I've felled about 20 of the best, and every time I split a log my heart just drops. I have some bought bows,and board bows, but I honestly don't enjoy them as much as the bow I make from scratch.
Any way I repaired the crack with super glue and it seems to be holding, but I know it's just a matter of time.
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Strange turn of events here, I super glued the crack, and tried a couple of draws and it held, I took it out shooting and it held up, the crack stayed sealed. I'm wondering if the crack could be superficial due to the knot, and not run deep into the grain of the bow, also that part of the limb is quite thick and doesn't bend much,
I've added a pic of the crack, the horizontal looking crack is not a crack but part of the knot. the crack is vertical from the center of the bow running up to the back.
I can't believe the crack didn't run again after the first draw, let alone hold up for 2 hours of shooting. I must say mulberry makes an awesome bow.
How many of you osage bow makers have tried it ?
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_kqRLbpLvd3M/Si5ZGgDsydI/AAAAAAAAAi0/n6bbhmwgkxA/s720/P1020186.JPG)