Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Leo L. on May 29, 2009, 07:07:00 PM
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I've got a 1993 Martin Hatfield T/D.
The grip has always been too fat for my hand. Or so I think anyway. It just doesn't fall into place like a lot of other bows do. I'd like to get some sandpaper and slowly re-shape it to fit my hand better. Before I dig in, I'd just like some tips on what not to do, and how to do it right...including re-applying a finish.
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I am not an expert but I have re-shaped a few grips. You have it right, go slow and I do it all by hand. Once the wood is gone it is gone. I found a flexible rasp works well for the contours of the grip. Try and stay away from the edges of the glass if you use a course metal rasp b/c you could lift a splinter in the glass if you are not careful. I have used poly sprays and Tru Oil to cover the areas that I have re-worked. Both have worked just fine. I am sure someone else with way more experience will chime in with more and better tips. Good Luck!
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Leo,
Like blueslfb said go slow and stay away from the glass!. What I do when working risers is put two layers of quality masking tape on the face and edges of the glass. When I nip in to them with a rasp I replace them immediately. Also if ya do nip the glass use thin cyanoacrylate (super glue) to mend the edge.
Before you begin I would strongly suggest that you develop a plan for what you are going to do. If you have a grip that you like look at it and see what you can do to bring the martin in to a similar or identical shape. Mark the grip out with a pencil and slowly rasp material and then try your hand on the riser. It is amazing how little material it takes to make a major change in how the grip feels. What I have done is colored the area I wanted to remove with pencil, remove it all, try the fit, mark what I wanted gone and just repeat the process.
As far as refinishing I would refinish the entire bow when I was done. I like to use brush on minwax helmsman first, When I get the finish built up where I want it I apply the last couple of really thin coats with a spray gun.
Here is a couple of shots of a riser being completed. You are doing the same thing just starting a little further along in the process.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/apadora/DSCN8451.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/apadora/DSCN8459.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/apadora/DSCN8461.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/apadora/DSCN8462.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/apadora/DSCN8463.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/apadora/DSCN8471.jpg)
when you are close to the glass on the edge always make sure that you file from the glass to the wood.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/apadora/DSCN8472.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc105/longbowpete/apadora/DSCN8484.jpg)
After you have the riser where you want it start with sandpaper and bring it in from 100 grit to 400.I hope this was helpful.
pete
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Nice stuff Pete, I don't know about Leo but i know it helped me figure out how to shape a handle.
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Cool, good stuff. It's a takedown so there is no glass in the handle area.