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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: ron w on May 06, 2009, 04:21:00 PM
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I have had this split in my shop for about 7-8 years and I started to work on it today. It looks like its gonna be 64" and about 2" wide at the fades. Is this ok? I took the bark off when it was split and the back looks good. Shuold I back it? And last... can I use dry heat to give it some reflex and not get in trouble...thanks
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2" is real wide for hickory. For a 50# @ 28" bow, or more, 1 5/8" would be plenty. Alot depends upon the density of the wood. Easy to start out a little wide and then reduce the width when you get up to say 20" of draw and get a sense of how much set it is taking. No need to back hickory with a good back ring. Absolutely you can use dry heat to adjust the profile, although and inch or two is generally plenty.
Moisture control is very important with hickory. If you don't already have a means to determine and manipulate the ambient humidity, chances are good the wood is still a little wet for tillering. A simple humidity gauge from the home center will do. Try to maintain 40% Relative Humidity sustained for at least a week before you work the bow much.
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Thanks for the input, It will make it easier to work if I can make it narrower, more room to play..lol. This stave is a real nice one, with good straight grain. As I was roughing it out I was surprised at what a nice piece of wood it is.
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yea i was gonna say, all of my hickory bows have been 1.3', or around that mark, at the widest- do you plan on makin her D cross section? good luck, looking foward to the finished product, haha. -jimmy
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local point...more than likely it will have a "D" cross section. I want to give it some reflex out near the tips. Going to try to get 50-52# at 29".
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1 7/8" at fades, parallell out 2/3 of limb, than taper to 3/8 at nocks. -1/2" thickness on a 66" hickory bow will get you very close to the poundage you are looking for-- at least that's my experience w/ a dozen hickory bows. I back them w/ silk--does not effect performance in any noticable way and greatly reduces chance of breakage. I heat treat the belly of mine-- gives them more compression strength, and less string follow. Heat treat works well w/ hickory, as many can attest to.
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That design is ok. May be a bit wide as DCM said, May be. May be not. If the stave does not respond to belly wood removal then you'll know that you need to narrow the width. Jawge
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Thanks guys!!! I have used a bit from all of you, and its almost ready to floor tiller. A couple more hours and she'll start to bend. I'm going slow and I'm going to sneak up on it..