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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Pat B on April 07, 2009, 10:55:00 AM
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When I got home yesterday, these were waiting for me. They are made by my friend Art Butner(artcher1). I try to send Art hill some cane I collect from along my driveway each year. I sent these canes a month or so ago.
ENJOY...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Artshillcanearrows001.jpg)
six completed arrows without fletching. I will fletch them myself, one Cherokee style two fletch and one hunting arrow.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Artshillcanearrows002.jpg)
These are footed arrows with hardwood foreshafts. You can only tell the foreshafts by the discoloration. You can not feel the transition between them and the cane.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Artshillcanearrows007.jpg)
hardwood self nocks
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Artshillcanearrows004.jpg)
Cherokee two fletch
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/Artshillcanearrows005.jpg)
Art's trade point made from old circular saw blade, dadoed into the hardwood foreshaft and set in epoxy. The hunting arrow is cane but not hill cane. Also a solo quiver for my hunting bow.
ENJOY!!!
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Those are some great arrows Pat....Art does some very nice work....Steve
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Pat, Art, nice arrows! Does Art have a how to anywhere on doing the foreshafts and nocks?
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Nice arrows Pat, thanks for sharing. How are the footings attached and what is the wood used. Does Art drill out the pith on the cane and insert the hardwood, as described on the Ferret's page, but leave a couple of inches out the front of the arrow. Would really like to make some arrows like that sometime.
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Art used to use a 5% taper on the end of the foreshaft and a matching socket in the end of the cane. He would attach them together with super glue and a silk thread wrap at the end of the cane for strength. I have done it this way with good results.
I'm not sure how he has done these. This is a new method and he says none have failed so far. He told me to give them a run for their money to see how they hold up. Notice he didn't add the silk wrap for strength. You can't feel the transition between the cane and foreshaft. The wood for the foreshafts and nocks looks like maple to me. Any hardwood will work for this.
I'm sure if Art sees this he will chine in with some info.
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Thanks guys! Tried to pull up some pics for you but Photobucket isn't cooperating today. Will have to do a play by play I reckon.
As Pat mentioned, any hardwood will do for footing.
I made my conical drill bit from a 5/8" wood spade bit. Just used the exsisting tip taper and filed the back to match which created the conical design.
First a note here: use thick walled cane with the conical system. For thin walled stuff then go with a pin and shoulder system and use a wrap. Wrap some masking tape around the end of the cane shaft and drill out the pith. I secure my shaft in a vise and eye ball.
The conical insert I taper in an electric drill using a file. Drill also secured in a vise.
Now for gluing in the insert. I use the cheap thin runny super glue that Wally World sell. Reason for the thin runny glue is that it penetrates the pith better and gives more time for alignment. Don'r worry if things don't come out exactly lined up. You can heat straighten later.
Will post some pics (can upload directly) on the PA board later for those interested.
ART B
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Thanks Art.
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Cool arrows... Dear santa... :)
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Too cool! I hope to someday be able to do that.
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Thanks Art, so far, I'm still hungry! I like the cheap super glue from D.G., big pack and cheap! Call me a Frugal Archer! Steve
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If you decide to use the super glue for a shaft finish, then the cheap stuff is what you want. It's been thinned down so as to sell cheaper, but for our uses, it's perfect. Those two fletched arrows of Pat's are finished out with super glue. Make for a very slick and durable finish.
ART B