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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: AKmud on March 26, 2009, 01:21:00 PM
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What is the main difference you find when building a bow from a stave rather than a board? Are the bows stronger, narrower, faster??
Living in AK, I don't have access to any decent woods in stave form so I am stuck with the board bow route for now. I was just wondering if it would be worth the effort ($$) to find a stave to try?
Also, how is working with a stave different than a board when shaping and tillering? I know you try to find a continuous grain for the length of the back of the bow, but is that the only real difference?
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With a stave you are working with the grain on your side thus a stave bow, if properly built, will generally be stronger. The strength is in having a continuous growth ring from tip to tip along the back of your bow where the tension stresses are.
With a board, the grain has been violated by the sawing process. If you choose the proper board with the proper grain configuration you can build a successful bow. Backing a board bow increases the tension strength thus making it more durable but this is not necessary for a successful board bow.
Very good bows can be made with either a stave or a board. If you are new to wood bow building, start with board bows and learn the tillering process then you can go to a stave with a better chance of success which will make it more worthwhile monitarily.
The tillering process is the same for stave or board bows. You remove wood from the working portions of each limb so they bend evenly and together.
George Tsoukalas' site has lots of helpful information that will assist you in building a successful board bow. It is a worthwhile read with lots of insight as to choosing the proper board for building bows.
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Thanks Pat, I've had pretty good success with board bows to this point. I am building my 8th bow now and all have been shooters (except for the two that blew up :) ).
I may have to try and find a stave before too long.
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Personaly board bows are good cheap way to learn to build bows.Not that there not good board bows made[backed].I was taught and found out that there just not as durable as a stave bow.That you cut and know it's seasoned right.And you know it.
Don't get me wrong I see and made some good backed board bows.
But for a durble,fast,good casted,stronger bows can be built,with narrower limbs selfbows that really gets shot couple 100,000 times.It's like white oaks or red oaks when it comes to deer.
I have selfbows that were personal bows that are 10,15 years old that I've retireded for one reason or another.That are still shooters.One 11 year old osage bow 58"55#@26 shot forever still nice an straight,Another 9 year old hickory Iusaed for 5 deer seasons kiill 9 bucks.Still only has an inchof set in it.As when in made it.
I don't know of one board bow.I'm or someone elses thats ever came close to these bows.I hav'nt built a board bow for 15 years.And knew and old bowyer that built selfbows for over 50 years.He would'nt even pick up a board to look at it.He'd just say he would'nt even wast his time.
STAVES FOR ME
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I prefer staves but have built backed board bows that could easily last a lifetime of hard shooting like a stave bow. I enjoy the process of taking everything off of a stave until there in only a bow left over.
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Well decent boards are almost impossible to find around here! I keep trying though...I gotta build a bow.
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It's all wood. Wood is good. Design your bow for your piece of wood and you will be fine. Generally, billets are cheaper especially when shipping to Alaska and such. So if you figure you can tackle a splice, you can get away with less $$ for billets.
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I am finishing a yellow birch board bow at the moment. if I remember from a previous post of yours, you have white birch up there. That will make a bow. Might not be as good as Osage and some of the more glamorous woods but I bet it is what the natives used.
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You might want to stay away from staves. Reason I say this is now that I've made a few bows from staves a pristine flat backed board bow is just plain boring! Those bumps and wiggles are the best, IMHO. (imagine a little smiley icon hereX)
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I like building with Boards better, it just takes a little while to find one that will work well. ("straight" grain, no knots)
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Well....I blew up #3 today....
Both of the birch board bows I have attempted have come apart with no warning during the tillering process (2nd was just a few minutes ago...).
I guess it is to be expected since they were not backed with anything. There is just something about the feel of this birch that I don't like. I really like the way my two hickory bows came out and they were unbacked so I will probably stick with hickory or other woods.
I am getting ready to rough out a board bow from ash. It has a really good straight grain for the entire length so I think it has potential.
I haven't worked with ash before, so how does it compare to hickory? Does it need to be backed like red oak or will it hold together for a 55#/72" bow?
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I like bldg. board bows.- allows me to experiment w/ diff designs, woods, etc.--since my invested money and time is so minimal, it is no big deal to me if the bow sucks, or flat out blows up. I often build 2 bows a week. I look for good grain boards, but Iam not all that fussy about it-- I just back all of them.--usually hick, or silk backed. Using this approach, I managed to build some very good shooters. - the rest are very satisfactory bows. -- all of which I would not hesitate to hunt deer/elk/bear with. All this said there is a kind of special connection to the wood and the bow, if you harvest your own, and whittle out a shooter.-- I've just come to enjoy,bldg. more in volume-- and board bows make finding suitable, cheap wood, alot easier. Try making hickory backed ipe--from a piece of 2x2. You should be able to find some locally-- check w/ guys who build decks. I just finished 2 ipe/hick bows--both are great shooters. Good luck. Both ways of bldg. have their advantages--so try both--but, as others have said learn w/ boards. --Just back 'em.
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I have a red oak board bow that is AIR backed. So backing doesn't need to be put on if you have straight grain running down the back and sides of your board.
Taking your time when tillering is the key. Find a style/design of bow you like/have made and stay with that. You'll find out which wood is best for that style/design and which ones don't like it.
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i have to chime in on this one. john S is right wood is wood. i have had some unbacked hickory & ash board bows that were just plain scary fast. its all about the design. Yesturday i took the center 1 3/4 of a qtr sawn ash board and chased a ring on it. when i was done it looked just like it did off the tree. waiting for the tip overlays to dry but all indications are is that is will be a fast little bow too. it seems woodcraft has a nearly endless supply of excellent qtr sawn ash, hickory and hard maple. Most really straight grained. If there is one near you i suggest going down and pickin some up. at $3-5 a board ft the whole board will cost about $11-20. here are some pics of the ash board i chased a ring on.
(http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww279/sulphur7/CIMG1936.jpg)
(http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww279/sulphur7/CIMG1936-1.jpg)
(http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww279/sulphur7/CIMG1939.jpg)
(http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww279/sulphur7/CIMG1940.jpg)
the last pic shows the clean back ring & two spot where there are knots on the belly. these will be in the handle so no problems. also the limbs don't need to be on the same exact ring.
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oops, i meant plain sawn boards. my mistake.
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Here's my site. There are different considerations in choosing a board. Straight grained is best. It's all explained on my site. When the board is properly the job is easier. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
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LOL.
Sulpur, thanks for the correction. I was reading your first post and thought that that was a great trick, chasing a ring on the back of a quarter sawn board.
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yeah dumb me got my cuts mixed up. bought some more of those plain sawn boards today and i finished that one in the pics. made it 42# @ 28" for my wife. will post some of it tomorrow.