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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: short slugger on February 24, 2009, 07:54:00 PM
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I have several cherry logs a little over 6 feet long and about 8 inches diameter that have been cut for about a year. Ends were not sealed, bark still on...this was before I had any interest in bow building...can these be used for a decent bow, and what problems am I getting into? What should I be looking out for if I split one? Or do I just use for other projects? Thanks,
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I'm pretty sure you could use those, just watch for checks on the ends of your staves. Course if they're not split yet, you can probably split along any checks, and have good staves. I've yet to work with cherry, so maybe one of the more experienced can chime in here.
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that cherry will make butiful bows keep em in the lower poundage range id say 45 - 50 cherry makes a good bow but not in high poundage make ur limbs wide i like to leave some of the white sap on em somtime s espically if i get a long one to make a war bow with have fun brock
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How were the logs stored for that year?
I have only made cherry bows with the sapwood. I just peeled the bark for my back. Long and wide(overbuilt as per Comstock) works well for cherry.
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Originally posted by Diamondback59:
that cherry will make butiful bows keep em in the lower poundage range id say 45 - 50 cherry makes a good bow but not in high poundage make ur limbs wide i like to leave some of the white sap on em somtime s espically if i get a long one to make a war bow with have fun brock
Good on ya Brock hahaha
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Pat, the 9-10 inch log 9 feet long was left outside in the shade of pine trees off the ground 4 inches. Not the best enviroment, but is inside basement now.
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Tony, Be very careful of that log. I consider cherry a whitewood and it doesn't take long for fungi to set into whitewood if not treated properly. There is a good chance that is the case with this cherry. There may or may not be outward signs of the fungi but if you see streaking or mis-color inside the log it has been infected.
I hope that is not the case.
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Thanks, Pat. I will look for spalting, if that is what you are speaking. I will try to split this week. If I can come up with a stave that looks clean and no discoloration, would I be good to go? Thanks,
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If there is any discoloration in the log at all I would not use any of it for bows. It would probably be fine for other projects but not bows.
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I will keep my fingers crossed. I got the log when a power line right-of-way was clear cut, so care was not taken with it. But I am learning now. Thanks, I will update you,
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With osage, locust, mulberry, yew and a few others it is not as much of a concern because of their anti-rot properties. With any white wood just a few days on the ground can be fatal. After all, that is the job of the fungi and it does it's work well.
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Hey slugger,
I'd suggest cutting that bark somehow, maybe a skillsaw or something. I mean cut it long ways. The last cherry log I tried to split with the bark on just about killed me. The bark runs around the trunk and it's nearly impossible to split the log without either removing or cutting the bark. That was my experience anyways. Let us know how it go!
ch
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Generally, if the bark wraps around the log(spiraled) the wood underneath follows suit. When split that would result in a stave with propeller twist. If that is the case, a bow can be built with it but it will make the process a bit more difficult.
Actually, you and Clay probably are talking about 2 different cherries. You probably have black cherry(Prunus serotina) where as Clay's might be talking about Prunus virginiana(common choke cherry). Both will make good bows but there is a difference in their bark. The choke cherry has a very tough bark that could hamper splitting the log. I use choke cherry bark from Oregon for decorative bow backings but I believe it has protection properties also. I don't believe black cherry bark would have the same properties, even though both grow around the trunk instead of running lengthwise as other tree barks do.
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I was able to get a stave 63" long , but it does have a prop twist in the lower 18". But Pat, I do see streaking and discoloration in the wood, so I guess not to good...mainly just some small pin size dots here and there. Wood is still damp to touch after nearly a year.Thanks,
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I wouldn't use it myself for bows. Might make a nice bow rack or let it discolor more and use it for knife handles or bow risers.
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Will do Pat...I will defer to your wisdom. I will use for turkey calls, strikers, and knife handles. And who knows, a riser may be in the future plans. It is so nice to have you guys give such great advice. Thanks for your faithfulness to the hobby!
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it's a sickness! d;^)