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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: tim roberts on February 09, 2009, 07:11:00 PM
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I am sure this will be the first of many questions, and I would like to thank those who reply, in advance............
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Timroberts_bucket/P1020426.jpg)
In the above pictue is the picture of one end of a stave that I got from Walt, a couple of years ago. On the left hand side is 2 pencil marks. These are 2 possible rings that look good for the back of a bow. I between the 2 marks, is what appears to be a possible pitch pocket? When I cut the end of the stave off it was on both sides.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r76/Timroberts_bucket/P1020429.jpg)
In the above picture is the other end, yes it is thicker on that end, but also the rings are tighter.
So here is the questions;
In the top picture is either one of the rings chosen a good choice, is there a better choice?
Since there is such a difference in the ring width from end to end, what is the best way to insure I am chasin the same ring?
And.........Is one end better than the other for the top limb or bottom limb.
Thanks again........
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Tim, How wide is your stave and what will be the bows length and your draw length and draw weight?
Generally the thicker rings would have been the bottom of the tree, possibly where the base flared but not necessarily. I usually try to build the bow the way the stave came out of the tree, so thicker rings down...I really don't think it matters.
When chasing a ring on osage there is a different sound and feel difference between the early wood and late wood. The early wood is somewhat honeycombed and makes a chatter sound when you cut through it and cuts easily. You'll feel and see the difference. Start about 6" from the end of the stave and work down through one growth ring and remove it back towards the end of the stave. Then go another 6" and do the same, yadda, yadda, yadda to the opposite end of the stave. Now, go to the next ring below and do the same until you get to the ring you want. If you can, leave the early wood on the back to protect it during construction. It is easy to remove with sand paper or a scraper later. This step is not at all necessary just a little precaution.
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The stave is about 2 1/2 inches wide, I haven't quite decided on a length yet but if I remember I have enough for a 64 or a 66 inch bow. I like the longer bows. My draw length is 25 inches and I am looking for 55-60 pounds at 25 inches.
Thanks.........
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If you lay out your bow to the right side of pic #1 and make the limbs 1 3/8" to 1 1/2" wide you should be able to eliminate the pitch pockets.
66" x 1 3/8" at the fades, out a four inches and a taper to 3/4" tips(for now). Leave the handle area full width until tillering is done so you have a place to clamp it. Tips and handles are always the last thing I do to a bow. You may need the extra wood for adjustments during the tiller or foe your first brace. You should be able to easily achieve your goal weight.
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So the top mark is a good ring?
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I'd use that one or the one above. Depends on what the rest of the ring looks like after you chase it.
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"Since there is such a difference in the ring width from end to end, what is the best way to insure I am chasin the same ring?"
I've found it helps if I clean the sides up so the ring grain is easily ID'ed in the sunlight. Then I make a pencil line following the grain line sides and ends of the stave on the ring I want to chase.
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I'd echo the above, Tim....just take your time chasing the ring, and you'll be able to tell the early wood and latewood differences. Use good light, sunlight is best, but you want to be able to easily see what your doing, especially where the rings get tight. Use the pencil as an aid, and go slow. Also, practice on a couple rings before you get to the one you are trying to get to...Make sense? Remember, you can always take wood off, but you can't add it....mostly anyway. Good luck, have fun.
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Thanks guys!! Hey Mark, good to hear from you, how have things been?