Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Chuck Hoopes on February 05, 2009, 10:13:00 PM
-
I have a 6ft. 11/16"x1 1/2" piece of ipe and would like to made a hickory/ipe all wood bow. I would like to ge something like 68"-70" bow that is about 65# @ 28". Iam thinking limbs parallel out to mid, tapering to 3/8-1/2"tips. Is this a good way to go? What porpotion of hick vs. ipe to use is another thing Iam wondering about-- Does starting w/ 3/8 hick laminated w/1/4"(belly) ipe make any sense? Or is there a better way to go? Iam really just shooting in the dark here, as I have never worked w/ipe. Do any of these dimensions make sense w 1 1/2" width limb? or am I asking to much of this wood? I know I usually like to go 1 7/8" width when working w/ only hickory. --Will the lamination of ipe allow me to get away w/ 1 1/2" width. Maybe I should go 50/50 hick/ipe? Just don't have a clue. :knothead: All suggestions, advice, WAG'S appreciated.
-
When I cut my own hickory backings I cut them to 3/16" and after dressing both surfaces it usually comes out about 1/8" or slightly less. For the belly I remove wood until the bow bends well and at the draw weight I am shooting for.
With ipe you don't need to go to 1 1/2" wide. A 1" hickory backed ipe bow can easily make a 100# bow.
You could go 64" to 66"x1" and still come up with a 65# bow. Ipe is strong wood!
-
Pat- I had a hunch it would be "strong wood" when I picked it up- Man, that stuff is dense! Because I have never worked with wood this heavy, I was concerned about how much to use. Thanks for the heads up. I like the 1/8" hick back idea. If I keep the bow 1 1/2 wide -Iam guessing that something like 3/8 thick ipe, is going to get me in the ball park. Or maybe, I should just go 1 or 1 1/4" wide and laminate the 1/8 Hick to the full 11/16 ipe and then belly taper away. I actually have enough wood to try both options. Which option do you like?
-
Sounds good to me.
-
A few years ago, when I made my first ipe bow, I went with what I thought was a normal width of
1 1/2" at the fades, out 4" then taper to 3/8" tips. I was shooting for about 55#@26". Well, by the time I hit my desired weight the ipe belly came out thinner than the 1/8" backing strip.It really doesn't take much ipe to make a strong bow. I have only made a few ipe bows so I am no expert. Maybe someone else that is more familiar with it will chine in with a better suggestion for your bow.
-
What Pat B says! You will find it very difficult to tiller because it will be very thin at 1 1/2" wide. One and one quarter inch would be a good comprimise, and is what I prefer to lay mine up at.
-
Wish I would have seen this post a month ago. I have made 3 HBI bows in the last month. All 3 bows had 1/8" hickory backings and started with 1/2" ipe. 1 bow is 64" ntn, 1 1/2" wide and 51#. 1 bow is 57" 1 1/2" and 42#, and 1 bow is 56" 13/4" and 61#. I have learned that Pat is correct, it doesn't take much ipe to make a stout bow. I went with 1 3/4" because I wanted a bow in the 60# range and short. It is definitely an overbuilt bow but shoots great. Good luck with the build and I would suggest degreasing the ipe before glue up due to the oil.
-
thanks for the info. on ipe--Iam going to go w/ 1 1/4 widthto midlimb, and probably 1/8" hick plus 1/2" ipe and 68".
-
Another Ipe fan here, I made four in the last month, it is a great bow wood. Backed with bamboo. All what they say is true, if you go too wide tillering is tricky and you risk coming out underweight or worse stressing the bow if you draw it a fraction too far. Narrower and a little thicker is safer I believe.This is kind of opposite to the usual advice? It has to be narrower unless you are after an 80#er! Take care of twisting the limbs. My last one is a trilam, it has a thin action-boo taper between the back and belly, it holds its reflex better, still working on it. Thin hickory backing should do fine. It makes a really smooth shooting bow. The colour is a rich dark brown or caramel I love it, oh yes,I agree, degrease before gluing.
chrisg