Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: talkingcabbage on January 27, 2009, 03:53:00 PM
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Okay all, here's my first crack at this build along thing. Some of you may remember my questions about silver maple. Well, I got a few staves split out of that log and in my garage rafters waiting for warmer weather to dry. In the meantime, I have today off, so I decided to go ahead and get one roughed out and drying in the house.
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow001.jpg)
Here's the longer of the staves. They're all about 8' long, cuz that's how long I could get a straight run on the tree. I figured a little extra on the ends wouldn't hurt! :D
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow002.jpg)
Here's some shorter ones (from 5' to 7') that I'll probably use for a couple youth size bows for a friend. He's got two boys about 10-12 that want to try to make/shoot a bow, so I'm not gonna stop 'em! :)
This is the one I picked. It's not my straightest, but it does have a nice natural r/d going in it.
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow003.jpg)
I spent about 45 mins getting the bark off (note to self, start cutting these things in the spring or summer and peel the bark off :knothead: ) It wasn't too much work, but when your garage is about 15 degrees, well, you know.
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow004.jpg)
So the whole thing is naked now and I only have one knot to deal with. You can see where I've left some of the inner bark on. I'll get this with a pocket knife later. (repeat note to self in earlier paragraph)
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow005.jpg)
Joe
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I had my brother help me get a straght line on this thing, and it looks like I'll be able to just miss that pesky knot. :saywhat:
Joe
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And sweet sassy molassey, I did miss that knot! :clapper:
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow011.jpg)
Now I can't feel my fingers, face, etc., so I'm gonna go warm up! :coffee:
Joe
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Looks good so far trim er up and put it under the bed or next to the furnace.
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So I've spent another 2 1/2 hours drawknifing the edges down :help:
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow012.jpg)
Here's a view where you can kinda see that prop twist. Not as bad as I thought it'd be.
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow013.jpg)
I've laid out the side profile. 2" wide at the handle tapering to 3/4" thick limbs for now.
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow014.jpg)
The fruits of my labor
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow015.jpg)
Tool of the trade
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow016.jpg)
By the way, did I mention it's cold in this garage?
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow017.jpg)
Now that my arms hurt and I'm cold again, it's time for another break. I probably won't get a chance to work on this again till Friday or Saturday. Till then!
Joe
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Joe, you're puttin off some heat! Raised it 8 degrees in that garage!! 3 or 4 more guys workin staves in there and it would be gettin nice!!
Lookin good so far(from a non selfbowyer)!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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No on the straight line. You end up in a cross grain situation. When laying out a bow you need to follow the lateral or vertical grain. She may prop twist on you if you don't. Also, the chances for breaking are increased. Check this. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/layout.html
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George,
I'm planning on backing this with sinew or sturgeon skin, or both. Will it help? The line follows the grain pretty closely, but it does run off some. I guess I wasn't thinking too well yesterday. I had to stop a couple of times to tell myself not to get in a hurry.
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Yes, Joe, I was going to recommend that you back it. That will look awesome. Jawge
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Thanks George. I'm planning on taking another stave and working it down, maybe this weekend or next, and I'll be sure to follow the grain closer on that one. Live and learn, right?
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Here's a question for the more experienced...
Should I steam bend the prop twist out of this before it dries, or wait till it dries out and use a heat gun and oil? I'm wondering if I steam it out now if it will come back when the wood completely dries out.
Joe
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Joe,
I take the green osage staves down to where they are just starting to floor tiller, flexing about 1-2 inches, seal them real good and let them sit for a few weeks/months and then use a heat gun.
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White woods don't respond as well as osage to the heat gun. I'd steam it now if I wanted to bend it. But for the small amount of twist you got there, I wouldn't bother. Make sure and get it 5/8" thick or so or you risk serious warpage during drying. And that 5/8" is all across the limb.
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Joe, you have a great attitude! You are right. That's how you learn. I've made my share of mistakes over the years. Jawge
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John, I was planning on 3/4" thick for the limbs for now. Do you think that's too much? I guess I'm nervous about taking too much right away, since I've never worked with silver maple before.
If I do steam bend it now, either for the twist or for more reflex, will my efforts be in vain? What I mean is, will the bends come out as it dries? Or will they stay in?
Joe
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When force drying quickly like this, the thicker you leave it, the more wood there is to twist and warp. If you get it closer to final dimensions, it will warp less. I'd go thinner. But do it carefully. At 2" wide, your thickness won't end up being more than 1/2".
No, your efforts won't be in vain if you steam it now. But generally, whitewoods are harder to bend than osage. I wouldn't invest the time in it.
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So I finally got a chance to get this thing shaped up, and I'm just now getting pictures of it for ya'll. I've got the limbs down to 5/8" and the handle section to 2" for now. It's in my basement on a shelf drying for a week, then I'll move it upstairs (following John's suggestions).
Here's the back of the bow. It still has a little of the cambium on it, but I'll scrape it off later. I kinda like the natural camo look of it, though!
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow019.jpg)
And a side view
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow020.jpg)
Here it's setting on the shelf. You can see the little bit of natural reflex in the limbs. I hope it stays.
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow018.jpg)
And here's Layla, my help for the day. She thought she was in trouble when I made her sit by the bow so I could get a pic!
(http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/oo22/talkingcabbage/Silvermapleselfbow021.jpg)
So now ya'll just have to wait about three or four weeks for anything else. Wait, that means I have to too! :knothead: Maybe I'll start another one.
Till then, happy trails! :archer:
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Just out of curiosity...did you finish it?
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I haven't made a bow from silver maple but I did cut one with a bow in mind until I started working on the wood, mine was too light and flimsy for bows, hope yours is better wood.
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I'm thinking it should reflex even more as it dries.
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i would put it on a 2x4 caul to straighten it out and maybe put a little more reflex there.
i have tried some test pieces of silver maple as we have 3 huge ones in the yard , and toasting the belly helped immensly with set. the wood may have been too wet or not seasoned , but it held up fine as long as you dont pull it too far. splinters came up on the edges a lot for me , but i was just using some straight 1/2" sticks about 3' long , just a crude test of the wood since we have so much of it.
and yeah , follow the grain or back it.
-hov
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I agree with George about not having a straight center line on a not so straight stave. You should follow the grain with a selfbow layout even if you are planning to sinew it. For maximum durability there are certain rules you adhear to when building selfbows and next to getting a good clean back ring, following the grain(s) is way up there.
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Very interesting, nice buildalong.