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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: msamn on January 22, 2009, 04:00:00 PM
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Hi All,
want to first say thanks for all the information in this BB. I learned a lot and was inspired to try bowmaking myself. I think that I was overly ambitious and tried to do things beyond my experience and woodworking skills. I am trying to make an R/D bamboo backed Ipe bow, with a cocobolo riser. Out of the press and hot box, I noted that one limb had more R/D than the other, and that there some twist in the limbs as well. None of which I consider to be fatal flaws. However, now that I am attempting to tiller, I think I need some advice. I will accept any criticism except starting over. I will try to post the photo for your comments. I took the photo in front of some louvred sliding doors to give you some sense of the assymmetry that Iam dealing with
(http://s668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/?action=view¤t=DSCN1568.jpg)
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here's a link to the image
http://s668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/?action=view¤t=DSCN1568.jpg
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It's your first bow just keep going at it and do your best if it breaks then oh well you will have learned alot by the time youre done. And then its on to the next one.
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First, your tillering string is way to long Michael. You need to make it as short as possible. Preferably with no slack. You're over-working your inner limbs with a string that long. What type of glue or epoxy did you use. If urac, then maybe you can heat your limbs after the bow is tillered out and do some adjustments with the twist and R/D then. Keep at it, looks pretty good up to this point. Good luck.
ART B
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thanks, Art B.
I used Bow Grip 100 as my epoxy, Do you think I can re-heat the bow to do some adjustments to the twist and R/D?
I think I may have too much Reflex in this bow? Do you think I should cut the limbs shorter to compensate?
Currently its 69 inches nock to nock, so I think I have a lot of room to play with.
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I think you would be better served if you wait until you get your bow fully tillered out before making any decision on reducing length. This will give you the option of picking up a few pounds if needed. If your limbs are wide enough you may be able to reduce some of the R/D by side tillering.
I don't have any experience with the Bow Grip 100 epoxy. Haven't seen anywhere on the net where folks recommened using heat. Maybe contact the maker to get that info.
One thing that I would suggest however, and that is to get the short string on as soon as possible. This will allow you better control on tillering out the R/D design IMO. ART B
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I haven't heard anything good about bowgrip 100. There are several comments on this site about it. URAC 185 seems to be the ticket for wood to wood and this is what I use. It looks good for your first one. If it doesn't work out, use it for a learning experiance and make another one. Good luck. Don
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Thanks, Art B. I used your suggestion of the shorter tillering string and I think that helped. I was able to tiller out most the twist.
Thanks, Don, for your input. I used bowgrip because my initial exposure to bowmaking was from rudderbows and that's what he recommended and sold. Next time I'll try Urac 185.
links to photos-
with shorter tillering string
http://s668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/?action=view¤t=DSCN1569.jpg
(http://s668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/?action=view¤t=DSCN1569.jpg)
unbraced
http://s668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/?action=view¤t=DSCN1570.jpg
(http://s668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/?action=view¤t=DSCN1570.jpg)
braced regular string
http://s668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/?action=view¤t=DSCN1571.jpg
(http://s668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/?action=view¤t=DSCN1571.jpg)
at nearly full draw
http://s668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/?action=view¤t=DSCN1572.jpg
(http://s668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/?action=view¤t=DSCN1572.jpg)
I think that I have too much bend near the handles on both limbs but more so on the left(lower) limb.
Oh well, this was a learning experience- its just my first bow.
Many thanks for your input.
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I finally figured out what I needed to do to load photos properly.
here are the key images.
comments would be welcomed.
(http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/DSCN1571.jpg)
braced
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(http://i668.photobucket.com/albums/vv43/msamn/DSCN1572.jpg)
sorry, here is the nearly full draw photo
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Almost all of your working limb is in the first third past the dip. That might be OK but I think I'd try to get the middle third working a bit more. Overall, not too bad though. Good job.
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As John mentioned, not bad overall. How did draw weight work out for you Michael? If it's close or below preferred weight I would check for finished tiller by feel from this point on. Here's how I do mine: With an arrow nocked (set string nock accordingly), and using the proper grip, I draw my bow to anchor checking for even stress on both limbs. Then I apply the slightest heel pressure to my grip to make sure I've got the correct positive tiller.
Keep us informed, you got a nice bow there, hope everything works out for you. ART B
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looks good to me ,but I havent even built a working bow yet!!!!im on number two number one went into the stove!!
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I agree about too much near riser limb bending. I would narrow the midlimb width to get it bending more. You can always cut an inch or two off each end to get the weight up.
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the bottom limb is almost hinging just off the fade