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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: ranger 3 on January 08, 2009, 09:46:00 AM
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OK, I cut my stave down using a band saw. This is what I found, the limb is 1 in.x 1 in. and it looks like it is about 1/2 in. deep.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0768.jpg)
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What's the wood? What's the question? :) Jawge
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It is Osage and is going to be problem? It looks like it is going to be right in the edge of the limb when I start working it down. Will it work or should I get another stave?
Thanks
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It might have to end up under weight but kids need bows too. I'd work it down under that hole and see what you have after that.
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Can you show more pics?...back and side. Sometimes with knots like this I will remove any dody material and fill the void with layers of super glue and fine saw dust. Usually you have to do it in layers to be sure you fill all of the void and to let the glue set completely before adding more. Pat
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Yes, possibly it will be a problem. Fill it up, like Pat says, and hope for the best. You could also use a mixture of wood glue and sawdust. It would have been a good idea to leave enough wood around the knot on the width to compensate for it. I assume that's a belly view so there is no way to leave extra wood on the belly except when you tiller leave that area alone. When you tiller try to not allow that knotted area to bend too much. It should appear flat. Jawge
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Yes it is on the belly, and It wasn't there until I cut it with the saw or at least I didn't see it.
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That is a problem. There is not enough wood avoid it in layout. There is also not enough wood to allow you to leave more width around the knot.
You can fill it with epoxy and sawdust, tiller that area stiff, an hope for the best.
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Yes it is on the belly, and It wasn't there until I cut it with the saw or at least I didn't see it.
I feel your pain there. Same thing happened to me on a slippery elm bow.
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I plugged a similar knot on this bow, been shooting it a year with no problems so far.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/killer3pluggedknot.jpg)
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Eric's example looks exceedingly similar to yours and should be encouraging, at least.
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Nice job Eric, how wide is the limb at the plug?
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What wood would you plug it with? Use the same species or any hard wood.
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The plug is 1/8" from the edge of the limb with the total limb width at the knot of 15/16". It doesn't go all the way through the limb and stopped about 1/16" from the bows back.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/pluggedknotsideview.jpg)
I drilled the knot out with a forstner bit, turned an osage plug plug with the same grain configuration as the limb on a mini lathe. I put a little urac and sawdust in the bottom of the hole and glued the plug in place.
This bow is a great shooter and has been my #1 bow ever since I made it.
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Eric, I sent you an e-mail
Howard
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Eric, you are talented. Great repair job!
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This is the stave after I worked it down a little. The knot is about 14" from the end. Do you think going aroung the knot will work?
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0788.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0787.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0786.jpg)
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Looks like you got some good meat around it. I would leave it, and change your layout a tad to incorporate it. Too bad its not dead center and on the edge.
I have filled one with sawdust and epoxy and then sanded it down. It worked well. but wasn't this large. More long than anything.
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Looks like you have given it your best shot. All you can do now is take your time and sweet talk her through tiller. Good luck. Looking forward to the outcome. TAKE YOUR TIME WITH IT! Pat
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I think it will be fine. I'd get rid of all that punky stuff in the middle. It'll probably fall out when you tiller anyway. I use a dremel with a pretty non-aggressive head to remove old rotten limbs like that. I have done a plug like Eric showed above and it works great. The sawdust and epoxy on a belly knot like that always falls out for me unless I add a sinew wrap to hold it in. Be gentle with it.
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Here it is braced about 3" and at 20" what you think needs to be done?
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0794.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0793.jpg)
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Your tips look a bit stiff. The one on the left, a few inches past the knot could bend a bit more. You can see how thick it is just past the knot. Don't mess with the fade area on the right limb but the last 1/3 of the limb could bend a bit more before you get to the tip.
Other than that it looks good. How about an unbraced pic. Pat
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Thanks Pat,the right limb also has a bit of twist to it. I have it at 50# at 23" and it has a lot of hand shock. I am going for 50@28 but I just short drew it and wow. Can I narrow the tips and them them down before I finish tillering? Right now the tips are about 3/4"
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0797.jpg)
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The hand shock probably comes from the tip mass. As long as your string is tracking well(or pretty close) you can reduce the tip width. I always leave my tips thick so I can reduce the width to reduce the physical weight...thus reducing the hand shock. Later you can reduce the thickness to get the tip weight down even more.
From the looks of the unbraced pic you have some set but it looks relatively even between both limbs but most of it is near the handle. Don't take any more wood from that area until you are sure the rest of the limb is taking on more of the work.
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Hi Pat, what you think? 50@26 I took the tips down but still a lot of shock. Should I take them down some more?
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0798.jpg)
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The left limb looks good. The right limb is bending a bit much before the knot and not enough on either side of it. I would concentrate on those areas(either side of the knot) and get them bending more and up to the knot.
Will you post a pic of the front view of the tips? With the thickness you show there you should be able to remove more wood from the tips. Pat
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Here is the tips they are 1/2", I will work on the area you said.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0803.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0802.jpg)
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First off you shouldn't make the string groove through the back ring of your bow; just the sides and belly unless you use an overlay on the tips. The limb can split right there. You should probably put new nocks just below those. You can dress up the tips just before you finish the bow.
You can go narrow with your tips. I make mine about 3/8" or a bit less. You don't have to do the tips yet until you get the tillering done.
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I'll have to fix the nocks. I think the top limb need a little work.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0804.jpg)
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I'd take a few long strokes down the center of the top limb with a scraper and check it again.
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You can cut down the back of the bow and put overlays on for your nocks. This way you can keep the same bow length.
I cut them angled from the back to the belly so the overlay can be lower and not be a big bump on the back of the stave.
The overlay in the picture is cut a slight angle but I have done them at a much steeper angle. You will have to file lower than the groove you have already cut.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/overlayangle.jpg)
Here is a finished nock that has been cut and an angle.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/bow%20making/killer6burloverlay.jpg)
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Can I use a piece of Osage and what would you glue it on with Super glue, Tite bound 3 ?
Thanks
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Any hardwood will work for overlays. I have used super glue, TBII and TBIII as well as 2ton epoxy to glue down overlays of wood, antler and bone.
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Eric, may I see a picture of the tips from the belly side please?
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My camera is in Nashville with my wife but I will take a picture when she gets back on Monday.
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I found this one, not completely finished but shaped.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v181/ekrewson/groove5.jpg)
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Thanks I will post some pictures of the bow when I get her finished.
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Here is more pics.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0812.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0811.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0810.jpg)
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm216/ranger500us/IMG_0809.jpg)
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Now you're cooking! Nice!
If you bring the length of the overlay down the limb a tad the transition between the overlay and limb will be less abrupt and allow for easier stringing. Also, most of the wood above the string nock is excess baggage. You can reduce that wood some more without effecting the weight or tiller of the bow.
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:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
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You can drill the knot out and give it a try.
Back it I do both.Sence it's only an inch.
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You can drill the knot out and give it a try.
Back it I do both.Sence it's only an inch.