Trad Gang
Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Pat B on December 31, 2008, 11:19:00 PM
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This is the process I used to straighten the stave for this bow and to add reflex and heat treat(temper) the belly.
The first pic is where I began with the "almost a bow" stave. Because of such thin growth rings(about 30 to the inch)I didn't get the back to one ring so I added a rawhide backing later in the process then the tiger stripe tissue paper.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa053.jpg)
Clamped at the handle to the form to begin reflexing and removing some of the side ways bend and twists. (http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa050.jpg)
This is the side view clamped to the form
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa051.jpg)
and out of the form
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa055.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa056.jpg)
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Next I will start on reflexing and heat treating the belly
This form is used on one limb at a time. I clamp the stave from the handle and work out the limb.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa059.jpg)
Clamps are placed not only to add reflex but to eliminate some side ways bends
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa061.jpg)
Here is the results...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa061.jpg)
Now the other limb
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa065.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa066.jpg)
and after...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa070.jpg)
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and after unclamping
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa069.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forpa071.jpg)
and the end result...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forPA084.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/forPA085.jpg)
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During this process there were many sessions of heating and straightening and allowing the stave to cool. I usually allow over night for the cooling. I use a heat gun and olive oil for the straightening. Any veg oil will work. The heat treating is the last process and no oil is used on the wood for this. You want to cook the wood until it is coffee brown but not black. I give the bow 3 or 4 days after heat treating for the wood to rehydrate a bit. Heat treating takes the necessary moisture out of the wood and it becomes too brittle to stress. After a few days it should be OK.
I hope this will help some of you guys that haven't gotten this far yet. It's not hard but patience is a necessity. Pat
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Hey Pat can I use this method on a bow that has been completed? I finished it about 8 years ago, and I never addressed the limb twist. It still shoots, it just tourqes real bad in my hand at the realese, real bad, who am I trying to kid? the d*mn thing jumps clean outta my hand. If I'm not paying attention it'll really fishtail an arrow down range.
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Very informative Pat. Thanks for taking the time to post the pics. The form you built looks like it could be used in lots of different ways.
Does heat treating the belly work as well on hickory as it does on osage?
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Jeff, you can use this on finished bows...but...a lot depends on the wood used and the degree of twist and damage to the wood itself from being shoot in this condition over the years. What wood is your bow? Osage reacts well heat straightening whereas some white woods might not be as effective.
Allen, heat treating seems to work best on white woods that generally are not compression strong(like hickory)and woods that aren't too oily. It doesn't work as well on osage but osage is usually strong enough in compression and doesn't need the extra strength. Hickory, maple, elm ash and other white woods seem to benefit quite a bit with heat treating. I am new to the heat treating so I'm experimenting as I go, now.So far the results are promising.
Marc St Louis wrote a chapter in the newest Trad Bowyers Bible(TBBIV) that explains the whole process and the benefits and drawbacks of heat treating. Marc has made some fantastic highly stressed static recurve elm self bows that are shooting hunting weight arrows over 190fps.
Pat
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Great thread, Pat, just as iexpected. (Or; "I hate to be one of those I told you so guys but I ........... - LOL") Thanks for sharing. I must get that TBB, Vol 4! Marc's bows are really something.
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...and Bernie, I cleaned up the shop just for you!
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LOL - you know what they say regarding cluttered desks and cluttered shops - about that being the person to get the job done. I'm convinced.
BTW, in case you thought I was trying to show up your wall in my new avatar - you're right - that's why I went and stood in front of a friend's garage for that pic :D ;)
(Just kidding, you know - but that is a friend's garage - only light background I could find at the time.)
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Thanks Pat, Yes the bow is osage, and I'm going to try it I've got nothing to loose and every thing to gain. If it works my wife can have a great starter bow.
Do you think it'll need tiller adjustment after?I'd hate to disturb that beautiful, golden brown, aged osage patina. It'll be what it is I guess.
Thanks again
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If the tiller is out then it need retillering. Got any pics? Pat
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very nice Mr Pat :thumbsup:
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Thanks NightHawk. I've had the beard for 40 years. My oldest and dearest friend. Pat