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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: Dan Landis on November 06, 2008, 08:18:00 AM
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Hi guys, Would like some input on properly drying a black locust sapling. I recently cut one, peeled the bark, roughed out the shape on the belly side and sides of the limbs. I also left the handle section intact. the sapling was 1-1/2" in dia. and 6' long. I coated the ends, back and the handle section of the stave with tite bond glue. About 3 weeks into the drying time it developed a deep crack down the center of each limb. What did I do wrong? I have access to more saplings and would like to make a self bow out of one.
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That sapling was pretty small and would be mostly sapwood. Sapwood dries about twice as fast as heart wood which causes it to crack unless it is sealed very well. Shellac is a much better sealer than TB but my not have saved a mostly sapwood stave.
See if you can find a sapling at least 4" in diameter for your stave, it will make you a much better bow than a smaller one.
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My first shooter was made from a BL selfbow. I still have it fron '92/93. I just leave the bark on but like Eric said if you remove it seal the back with poly or shellac. Ends should be sealed right away. BL looses moisture fast. Now keep in mind that the best scenario is to remove all the sapwood. BL likes heartwood backs. Also, keep in mind that the closer you get to the heartwood the stringer the sapwood layer is. So in a sapling the sapwood is pretty close so you have a good chance for success. I do think there are better choices for sapling bows like hickory, oak, maple, hop hornbeam, etc. I am not an ash man but you can add that to the list somewhere. Have fun.
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Eric and Jawge, thanks for the quick response. Eric you are right, is was mostly sapwood. I'll look for a 4" or larger one to cut, in my area there are locust saplings everywhere, finding one without limbs that is staight enough is the problem. Should I rough out or let bark on and just seal the ends? Thanks again.
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It will dry a lot quicker roughed out but be sure to put at least 4 coats of shellac on the back.
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Handle it just like O'sage.Cut seal the ends.Keep in the shade.Leave the bark on.
You need at least a 10'tree.If you wish to make a limb bow use hickory,elm white wood makes a much better limb bow.
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Handle it just like O'sage.Cut seal the ends.Keep in the shade.Leave the bark on.
You need at least a 10'tree.If you wish to make a limb bow use hickory,elm white wood makes a much better limb bow.
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BL sapwood can work for a back. Admittedly, that is not the best scenario. BL likes a heartwood back. I meant to say that my first shooter was made from BL sapling. You cut it. Try it. Jawge