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Main Boards => The Bowyer's Bench => Topic started by: TSHOOTER on November 04, 2008, 06:13:00 PM
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I have a hickory stave I split 1 year ago and have seasoned in the barn. I sealed the ends and sprayed it with insecticide but left the bark on (bad idea). I recently successfully removed the bark with a hatchet and wedges without damaging the back. I still have a little of the reddish inner bark attached to the outer whitewood ring. Can I leave a little of this inner bark attached or must I scrape it all the way down to the whitewood? The back is a little wavy and I'm afraid if I remove all of the reddish wood in the little grooves I will violate the ring. Also, the length is going to be a about 67 inches and hopefully 45 to 50 llbs @ 27. Is 1.75 inches wide at the fades and continuing out to mid limb and then tapered to .5 at the tips a good design for this type of wood?
Thanks
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TS, A bit of the thin cambium is OK to leave on the back. Actually some do intentionally as camo. Later you can pick most of it out without much trouble. Your bow design sounds fine. Take it slow and ask lots of questions. Pic are a big help for us to see your progress. Pat
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Pat, Thanks for the quick response. I have 1 other question before I get started. This stave has a slight twist on 1 end. Would it be best to rough the bow out and then heat this to straighten. I had thought I might induce about 3 inches of reflex on a caul and hoped this would take care of the twist at the same time?
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If you are going to induce reflex anyway then yes you can get the twist out then. It is not necessary to remove it and George T's web site covers dealing with twisted limbs on wood bows. Hickory doesn't react well to dry heat like other woods do but for me, steam is out of the question on dry wood unless you seal it from the moisture with shellac. Pat
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I have sanded or scraped it off.Your right it should have been taken off when cut.It comes off easyer then.Or it can be left on.[CAMO]I've did both.